Maxwell, you probably just opened the proverbial can of winter storage topics.

Lots of thoughts on this but I can tell you that since owning my car (from new) I have always changed the oil and filter prior to its long winter nap. I have heard that used oil is somewhat acidic and should not be left in the crankcase. Others disagree.

In the overall scheme of things oil is inexpensive and the cleaner the car is before being covered up makes me feel better.
 
I won't advocate the issue either way ...
I do it for peace-of-mind and to closely match the "every 6 months" thing in order to remove one of the possible "outs" in the event of an
unexpected service issue. I also run the engines during the winter so I like the fact of doing it with oil that isn't "3000km" old.
It's just me and your raising the question about it ... might be reason alone that nudges you the direction of exhausting that cost.
 
Fresh oil ran through all bearing journals and sitting in the engine for the winter months is only a good thing. Many engine rebuilders have told me that the oil does become somewhat acidic over time, and it is highly recommended to put fresh in before storage. Oil is very cheap and easy to change, versus an premature engine job. I have done this to all my vehicles before storage, and all my engines have lived a long, happy life. JMHO
 
We always considered TAN (Total Acid Number) among other things like dirt and metals monitoring crankcase oil on large stationary engines at work. So acid in used oil is a real concern.
The debate rages on the pre-storage oil change but I always change it before parking the Z06 for winter hibernation. :thumbs:
 
I change it before. One of the concerns though, is water getting in the oil from condensation due to the plus/minus temps in Fall and Spring.
However, I believe that bit of moisture will just evaporate during the first drive. I’ve always change the oil before winter if I haven’t used up the oil according to the oil life monitor during the summer.
 
I don't change oil until the winters over and I'm ready to drive. Then it's the first thing I do. I like to start with fresh oil each driving season,. If I change before storage then it's not fresh when I'm ready to drive.
Acid damage or water accumulation would only occur if the oil sat in the engine for a long long time.
 
As long as your oil has been changed at the proper intervals then years.
If your oil is super old ( way past the recommended milage) then it loses its ability to neutralize acid and it's probably not a good idea to leave it in over winter.
I change my oil every 3000km so I'm never concerned about acid damage.
That's just me though.
 
I went from the dealer to home, up on blocks and covered. I always change oil before storage as I feel its cheap insurance and also great piece of mind. No acids or contaminates to worry about all winter. Also it was free! Compare the cost of an oil change vs the cost of the car its cheap.
What makes this forum interesting is the valued response from so many. All good info and value.
 
Last edited:
As long as your oil has been changed at the proper intervals then years.
If your oil is super old ( way past the recommended milage) then it loses its ability to neutralize acid and it's probably not a good idea to leave it in over winter.
I change my oil every 3000km so I'm never concerned about acid damage.
That's just me though.

Rick this debate is epic. Frankly what is likely more important is how the car is stored. A heated garage would be the optimum place to avoid large quick temperature changes creating moisture from condensation and cracks on our precious Michelin tires. I store my Z06 and H1 in an insulated unheated garage and have no issues with moisture. Although I did find a couple cracks on my 15Z tires this spring.
I just do the Corvette / Hummer storage rituals, cover and plug them into their battery tenders.
We all have our own little storage routine. The oil change is just a personal preference for me.

One thing that is relevant is where you live. Different humility and ambient temperatures would definitely influence what would be necessary to keep the car dry and preserved. Fresh oil would not be any benefit if the car was exposed to conditions where it was cycling through moisture events due to condensation from temperature changes. And I concede the point that frequent oil changes pretty much take the acid risk out of the equation. Likely not many Corvette owners who need to worry about that. :D
Here in Edmonton humidity is not a big issue as long as the car is inside a fairly tight insulated garage so temperatures don’t swing too quick. Well it hasn’t been for me anyway.
This topic never gets old. :thumbs:
 
I totally agree Derek. I'm more concern with tire damage than engine damage. My garage is heated now so I'm anxious to see how my car fairs this winter. Not going to block it this year, but I will keep the battery tender on it.
Best do what ever your comfortable with..
 
I totally agree Derek. I'm more concern with tire damage than engine damage. My garage is heated now so I'm anxious to see how my car fairs this winter. Not going to block it this year, but I will keep the battery tender on it.
Best do what ever your comfortable with..

Yes Rick I am very interested to hear how your tires fare. The propaganda says they can be exposed to low temperatures while stationary without the risk of cracking as long as they do not cool or heat very fast. They specifically say not to apply heat (hot air blower/Herman Nelson) to cold tires to warm them. But let them heat up naturally. I’m not positive the cracks were not on the 15s tires already as they were the original tires but the 17 has the same model of new tires (PSS) that I put on and will be looking closely at. There is lots of debate over inflation for cold storage as well. Many guys say to over inflate them enough to keep them totally round when the temperatures fall. I inflate mine to 35 psi and park on thick rubber mats to absorb some of the ground pressure to allow some growth and minimize the flat spot. Maybe I should be lifting the car instead. Hmmm more Princess Auto stuff to buy...:Ack2:
You should be exempt from all of this stuff in your heated garage.... although the rubber mats might be worth considering if you are not lifting the car off the wheels.
Isn’t owning a Corvette fun!! Haha
 
  • Like
Reactions: Black 03 Z06
I have never heard of the PSS tires cracking in the cold. That was the Pilot Cup 2 tire that had the cold weather problems. The Cup 2 was stock on the 15 Z06... maybe the 16 as well.... not sure... I think the 17 Z switched to the PSS as well...Still a good idea to keep your tires cushioned, no matter what they are....... For peace of mind if nothing else... I sit mine on 2 inches of SM insulation in a homemade wood frame... seems to work as the SM is cupped to the round of the tire when I back off them in the spring...And no wop wop wop wop noises at cruising speeds either....


DSCN5355.JPG
 
I have never heard of the PSS tires cracking in the cold. That was the Pilot Cup 2 tire that had the cold weather problems. The Cup 2 was stock on the 15 Z06... maybe the 16 as well.... not sure... I think the 17 Z switched to the PSS as well...Still a good idea to keep your tires cushioned, no matter what they are....... For peace of mind if nothing else... I sit mine on 2 inches of SM insulation in a homemade wood frame... seems to work as the SM is cupped to the round of the tire when I back off them in the spring...And no wop wop wop wop noises at cruising speeds either....


View attachment 12305

I can assure you the Pilot Super Sports crack. I’ve had 2 set crack so far.
The only cars that came/come with the Sport Cup 2s are the Z07 (Z06 and Grand Sport) cars. All other Z06s come with Super Sport tires. Not sure about the Grand Sport.
My new Sport Cup 2s I took off my new Z are safe and sound in a warm basement. :D

PS
I like your styrofoam pads. Very good idea.
 
Last edited:
Anyone who builds these, make sure you cut a very gradual ramp on the entry plank. Mine is a bit too steep and my tires want to push them across the concrete floor instead of climb up on them. I ended up gluing that non skid cushioned mat people use in cupboards and such onto the bottom. That did the trick. I guess you could always jack up the car and slide them under but that's more work and I wanted something I could just drive up on.
Oh Yeah. Once you get them exactly in the right place for all four tires, mark the position on the floor.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ddgermann
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 100 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Users who are viewing this thread