Are you using 7L or 7.1L oil for oil change

  • 7

    Votes: 1 33.3%
  • 7.1

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 2 66.7%

  • Total voters
    3

gdb069

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I have had 2 oil changes (2021) and both times the service invoice indicates 8L of oil was billed to GM. My next oil change is on my dime so I looked at capacity and its 7.1L or US 7.5Q which is really 7.097L. My last oil change I had the tech put in 7L and then check the level and it was just under the halfway cross marks on the dipstick. The .1 L as expected moved the oil level up just slightly. Consider .1L is 1.14% of the total oil. Plus the dealership here wants $20/L

So I am wondering how many will just use 7L or will you use 7.1 and what are you doing with that other .9L?
 
They come in .946ml (1 US quart) containers. Use 7 & 1/2 containers. The other .473ml can be kept if you need a top up. As a side note, I let it drain for 30 minutes or so, and then it takes just about 8 quarts to be at the top of the hash marks.
 
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They come in .946ml (1 US quart) containers. Use 7 & 1/2 containers. The other .473ml can be kept if you need a top up. As a side note, I let it drain for 30 minutes or so, and then it takes just about 8 quarts to be at the top of the hash marks.
Ya, I haven't done a change yet, but I'd do the same thing. Plus a bit more oil won't hurt. Not too much more, but a bit won't hurt. I'd rather be a bit over the mark than below it.
 
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I also find the C8 is very finicky about checking the oil on a level surface. My driveway has about a 1% slope to the road and the dipstick reads just above the top hash mark (front of the car facing the road). On the perfectly level garage floor the dipstick reads on the top hash mark.
 
well it was an honest question but the moderators on this forum seem to want to decide what is worthy of a post. I have never seen a forum like that but good luck to you... how many active members?
 
well it was an honest question but the moderators on this forum seem to want to decide what is worthy of a post. I have never seen a forum like that but good luck to you... how many active members?
My apologies. I am not familiar with the C8 engine and obviously was not aware that a 0.1 litre discrepancy in oil would make any appreciable difference. Feel free to continue with your query and I will remove the derailment posts. As per you question, just under 6000 active members.
 
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OK, so noted. No fun on your threads.
Then let's be real! Do you really think that 1.5% makes a difference?
You likely will leave 1.5% of the oil in the engine when it's changed. Clinging to parts etc.
Right now when you buy the oil you are buying by the quart. It's almost exactly 7.5 quarts to do a 7.1 liter oil change.
You will have oil left over. Just fill it until the dipstick reads full and keep the rest for the next oil fill.
 
As much as it needs to get near the top of the hash mark when the engine is warmed up and running. In the US, 8 quarts gets it right to the top on my car, so 7.5 liters should do it. (Man, I wish Americans weren't too stupid to use the metric system.)
 
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^^^
I do find it interesting that Canadian construction still uses 2x4 and other US standard lumber sizes. Or so I've been told.

And the whole world uses wheel and tire sizes denoted in inches (mixed with metric - talk about a mess). E.G., 305mm width x 20 inch wheel diameter.
 
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Canadian 2x4 ‘s are actually 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 inches. Shrinkflation . I believe all dimensional lumber is in imperial yet oddly enough most construction drawings are in metric. So much for standardization.
2x4s have been that size since about the 1930s. 1.5x3.5" is the dressed size after planing; the board does actually start out at 2x4" off the sawmill.
 
2x4s have been that size since about the 1930s. 1.5x3.5" is the dressed size after planing; the board does actually start out at 2x4" off the sawmill.
What bothers me is the plastic pieces they call 1x4's are actually 3/4 x 3.5"! WTF! They don't start as raw lumber! It's totally arbitrary! They'd be perfect for window sills (3.5 + .5 drywall), but no! You gotta buy 1x6 and cut it down! GRRRR
 
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What bothers me is the plastic pieces they call 1x4's are actually 3/4 x 3.5"! WTF! They don't start as raw lumber! It's totally arbitrary! They'd be perfect for window sills (3.5 + .5 drywall), but no! You gotta buy 1x6 and cut it down! GRRRR
OOPS. Muddied his thread again.
 
2x4s have been that size since about the 1930s. 1.5x3.5" is the dressed size after planing; the board does actually start out at 2x4" off the sawmill.
Same dimensions in the US. But it is shrinkflation. 50 years ago a 2x4 was much closer to those dimensions even after finishing. My dad and I used a lot of them finishing our basement.
 
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Same dimensions in the US. But it is shrinkflation. 50 years ago a 2x4 was much closer to those dimensions even after finishing. My dad and I used a lot of them finishing our basement.
I have several times seen true dimensional lumber during renovations of buildings built in the 60’s and even 70’s . Not always but sometimes. I believe that the change came about with the advent of kiln drying lumber. Prior to that all lumber was shipped green and would of course shrink. That obviously being quite problematic. Look closely at an un renovated structure from the forties or fifties and it’s easy to see the results. Dimensional Lumber: Types, Sizes & History - MT Copeland
 
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unsubscribing....lol
Jack Raccoon seal of approval!

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