Well taylorsk8 , I'm very impressed with your skills and all that you have done on this project, just amazing. It is safe to say you know every nut & bolt on this Vette. Reward will be the day you take it out for it's maiden voyage. Keep up the good work and I'm looking forward to seeing the progress in the months ahead.
 
Well got some more progress. Started on the underside. Scraped and wire brushed it clean. Wasn't too bad, there was no undercoating except for the wheel wells (which I have not done yet). I removeds all the clips and steel parts to be cleaned up or replaced. Don't have an overall pic but here are some closer shots that were taken to remember where all the parts go:
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I then layed out some strips of glass mat to cover the seams from gluing. Not so much for strength but a lot for sealing. Soaked them on and let them cure:
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I clearly need more practice, or maybe some expert advice, cause I seem to keep getting little pockets of air bubbles or spots that lift in the glassing. I sanded some spots and gave a second layer in key places. Note I also put two layers under the drivers foot spot as it was cracked and real mushy:

IMG_20181130_132518.jpg


I am open to advice on glassing if there is any out there. I am pretty sure I am doing it correct but I am a rookie.

T
 
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I also found some time to look at the steel parts and clips. Will need new #4 body mounts and under seat belt reinforcements, however the front seat supports and center seat belt mount will be reused.


There was only one of the rear seat mount tabs so I whipped up another:
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I decided to try to make the insulation clips out of some SS that I had at home. They turned out pretty good:
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Also going to reuse the shoulder belt mounts....but the welded nuts are rusted beyond use. Machined a shoulder into some replacement nuts (that lathe was a great purchase a few years ago!) Cut the old nuts off and welded new ones on:
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I think I have decided to use blind (pop) rivets for the reassembly. The air chisel is far to violent to set rivets in my tests. Plus I will need another person to set most of them as I cannot reach both sides at once. Although they are not factory correct......who am I kidding I am long past that! I still have some time before that step anyway to decide

Also looking for some opinions. I am toying with the idea of using truck box liner on the underside instead of undercoating. My thoughts are it is tougher and will create a one piece shell to keep out moisture. Downside is it would likely be a little louder (although this is a guess). Any thoughts from the experts on the forums?

Well that's all for now. Gotta dig out the sandblaster for parts clean up next!

T
 
Funny how I don't even think about it when it comes to steel but fiberglassing is a bunch of doubting in my head. I am guessing this is why the car took a sideline for a year while I mentally worked out what to do with the floorboards and door sill etc. Either way I am on my way again and glassing will come as I do more of it!

T
 
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Amazing work! I agree that the bed liner material will stand up better than the undercoating. To accommodate for the "loss" in sound deadening would you consider the aftermarket interior sound insulating materials available? They add some weight but reduce noise and insulate from heat as well. Love watching the progress you are making and I think you should have an unveiling party when this car gets out. A salute to reviving a classic and Congratulations to you for the impressive effort you have shown in it revival.

Maybe a Meet in the Almost Middle for the event?
 
Taylor...
Great work there.
you are having so much fun.. some days more than others I suppose!
I’ve learned so much from your photo-essay and following along to learn more in the future.
Taking a break now and again is OK.

Thanx
Graham
 
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Very impressive Taylor. No roadblocks are slowing you down. Always admire someone who can build things out of what’s handy that’s as good or better.
Boxliner is really tough. I have it under my enclosed trailer and it’s done a great job protecting against the gravel rash and salt from the winter highways. I also have it on the roof of my H1. Solved the notorious Hummer leaky roof issue for the last 6 years. Under your Vette you only have to be careful about getting it on moving parts and things that slide... but you certainly are fully aware of that.
Really enjoying watching your progress and I agree with Paul. The car and owner deserve a grand unveiling event some day. Look forward to that one.

Derek
 
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I then layed out some strips of glass mat to cover the seams from gluing. Not so much for strength but a lot for sealing. Soaked them on and let them cure:
I clearly need more practice, or maybe some expert advice, cause I seem to keep getting little pockets of air bubbles or spots that lift in the glassing. I sanded some spots and gave a second layer in key places. Note I also put two layers under the drivers foot spot as it was cracked and real mushy:

I am open to advice on glassing if there is any out there. I am pretty sure I am doing it correct but I am a rookie.T

I know nothing about glassing but you might try @Darrellg1. If the CF targa top he did is any indicator, he probably can offer some advice ...
 
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Thanks for the input everyone. I think box liner is the way I will go. I was already planning to hush mat/dynamat the interior so I doubt noise will be much of an issue.

Next problem is I guess I will have to make or repair the #4 body mounts and the under seat belt reinforcements since Corvette Central seems to be out of stock on both of them (right and left). Got an idea for the body mounts but the seat belt parts may be harder. Time to get the thinking cap on!

T
 
I then layed out some strips of glass mat to cover the seams from gluing. Not so much for strength but a lot for sealing. Soaked them on and let them cure:
View attachment 21827View attachment 21829View attachment 21830View attachment 21831View attachment 21832

I clearly need more practice, or maybe some expert advice, cause I seem to keep getting little pockets of air bubbles or spots that lift in the glassing. I sanded some spots and gave a second layer in key places. Note I also put two layers under the drivers foot spot as it was cracked and real mushy:

View attachment 21828

I am open to advice on glassing if there is any out there. I am pretty sure I am doing it correct but I am a rookie.

T
Hi, thanks for the shout out Rruff Day!
Your air bubbles and spots that are lifting are areas that are resin starved.
Your best bet is to cut that small section out , meaning pop the air bubble and cut the dry glass out, if you have any milled fibers that would work great for flller, if not resin in the repair area will be ok. Use a piece of wax paper or cellophane over the resin if its a waxed resin.
Thats how I rework my starved areas and have no issues afterwards. Try using a chopped strand roller when your laying your wet glass out and make sure its all saturated. The roller is metal instead of fibers. Any fiberglassing shop has them. I used to do Composites at Boeing, so I been to a few dances lol.
Let me know how ya do, and if you have any more questions. Be glad to help out! Darrell
 
Hi, thanks for the shout out Rruff Day!
Your air bubbles and spots that are lifting are areas that are resin starved.
Your best bet is to cut that small section out , meaning pop the air bubble and cut the dry glass out, if you have any milled fibers that would work great for flller, if not resin in the repair area will be ok. Use a piece of wax paper or cellophane over the resin if its a waxed resin.
Thats how I rework my starved areas and have no issues afterwards. Try using a chopped strand roller when your laying your wet glass out and make sure its all saturated. The roller is metal instead of fibers. Any fiberglassing shop has them. I used to do Composites at Boeing, so I been to a few dances lol.
Let me know how ya do, and if you have any more questions. Be glad to help out! Darrell
Your lifting issues may also be dirt, try using a good paint degreaser followed by MEK or Acetone. Let it flash off and giver er.
 
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Thanks for the info. It should help. I am thinking it may be due to dirt or contaminants as you suggest. Largely based on the locations. I am sure (in hindsight) i could have spend more time with the cleaning.

Thanks.

T
 
Thanks for the info. It should help. I am thinking it may be due to dirt or contaminants as you suggest. Largely based on the locations. I am sure (in hindsight) i could have spend more time with the cleaning.

Thanks.

T
Anytime Taylorsk8!
Another trick if your interested in getting rid of bubbles , IF you've laid resin, and no starvation exists, but get those pesky resin air bubbles in your wet lay up, is to blow a heat gun over the fresh laid resin. This will heat the air in the bubble, making it rise to the surface and making it pop. The resins viscosity will allow it to flow into the popped area if its done right away (soft resin) making a ridgeless repair.

Always here if you have any questions in the future. I also have alot of vacuum bagging exp if you have questions on that also. Have fun and enjoy your projects.
I will be following with Eric and crew. I love this stuff.

D
 
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