You are working on a jig-saw-puzzle there but it looks great the way it is all fitting together. The Endura is nice stuff, I got some to do with it later also. One thing I notice your build working with glass body is sure alot cleaner than the rusty steel I'm playing with, cleaning takes up so much time. Nice job Taylorsk8.
And it begins....Body off
- Thread starter taylorsk8
- Start date
Well wouldn't want this thread to get buried again so here is an update. Got some time on the car over the weekend:
Glassed one layer over the floor board seams on the inside. Probably not needed but gives an extra sealing layer and smooths it all out:
Pulled the tarps off the chassis...whadda know it is still there! Decided I gotta tackle the drive shaft and so did many many angle measurements on the trans yoke and diff pinion:
I needed to get more angle on the pinion so I machined down teh poly bushing to allow the front of the diff to come up:
I took off about 1/4" and it gained me somewhere around 0.5-0.8 Deg depending on my measuring techniques. I then decided I should check the tunnel clearance as I remember that the tranny hit (or was very close) last time I had the body on. Of course at that time the floor boards weren't attached so better check:
Body went on ok. The #4 and/or #1 Body mounts had a large gap from sitting on the poly bushings. Not sure why. I did put bolts in anf they pulled up tight with not too much force. Not sure if I just had some movement while fixing the birdcage or what is going on. It is possible that the frame is not perfectly straight also...although I am pretty sure I checked it.
More below.
T
Glassed one layer over the floor board seams on the inside. Probably not needed but gives an extra sealing layer and smooths it all out:
Pulled the tarps off the chassis...whadda know it is still there! Decided I gotta tackle the drive shaft and so did many many angle measurements on the trans yoke and diff pinion:
I needed to get more angle on the pinion so I machined down teh poly bushing to allow the front of the diff to come up:
I took off about 1/4" and it gained me somewhere around 0.5-0.8 Deg depending on my measuring techniques. I then decided I should check the tunnel clearance as I remember that the tranny hit (or was very close) last time I had the body on. Of course at that time the floor boards weren't attached so better check:
Body went on ok. The #4 and/or #1 Body mounts had a large gap from sitting on the poly bushings. Not sure why. I did put bolts in anf they pulled up tight with not too much force. Not sure if I just had some movement while fixing the birdcage or what is going on. It is possible that the frame is not perfectly straight also...although I am pretty sure I checked it.
More below.
T
The tranny does touch in the tunnel. Well really just the rubber cushion on the top does, but I decided to lower the yoke end mount. I can always shim up to final placement...very hard to lower:
So I pulled the cross member out (again, just when you think you have a part on for good) and modified it. I tried to lower it about 3/4" but I ended up at about 7/8". I also made some shims (3/16") while I was at it to have for reassembly:
And add some paint. Nothing Special, just primer and a spray bomb. Hopefully this will allow me to get clearance and fix the angles for the driveshaft. I am confident now that I have some extra wiggle room.
Also looked at my driveshaft. I need to shorten it 3", which I am not concerned about doing. I did however notice that the U-joints I bough a million years ago aren't the right size. Looks like I need 1330 for the rear but I will need a 1310 to 1330 combination for the trans yoke. Guess I ordered the yoke based on the u-joints I had gotten not based on the driveshaft.
I am hoping a combination one is not uncommon. Going to stop at NAPA to day and ask.
Oh... also glassed inside the rear deck crack. Figured I should get this done so when the body is on I don't have to struggle with access:
Up next...assuming I can get u-joints as required, shorten driveshaft, reinstall tranny crossmember, set yoke and pinion angles, install driveshaft....maybe take it for a spin...Ha, now I am getting delusional.
T
So I pulled the cross member out (again, just when you think you have a part on for good) and modified it. I tried to lower it about 3/4" but I ended up at about 7/8". I also made some shims (3/16") while I was at it to have for reassembly:
And add some paint. Nothing Special, just primer and a spray bomb. Hopefully this will allow me to get clearance and fix the angles for the driveshaft. I am confident now that I have some extra wiggle room.
Also looked at my driveshaft. I need to shorten it 3", which I am not concerned about doing. I did however notice that the U-joints I bough a million years ago aren't the right size. Looks like I need 1330 for the rear but I will need a 1310 to 1330 combination for the trans yoke. Guess I ordered the yoke based on the u-joints I had gotten not based on the driveshaft.
I am hoping a combination one is not uncommon. Going to stop at NAPA to day and ask.Oh... also glassed inside the rear deck crack. Figured I should get this done so when the body is on I don't have to struggle with access:
Up next...assuming I can get u-joints as required, shorten driveshaft, reinstall tranny crossmember, set yoke and pinion angles, install driveshaft....maybe take it for a spin...Ha, now I am getting delusional.
T
Great progress!!
I was thinking tho when I saw your brackets, was "too bad you didn't powder coat them" It's a cheap, and durable way, to protect undercarriage and engine bay stuff. Adds a custom tweak too, that no one else has. IMO.
D
I was thinking tho when I saw your brackets, was "too bad you didn't powder coat them" It's a cheap, and durable way, to protect undercarriage and engine bay stuff. Adds a custom tweak too, that no one else has. IMO.
D
I have so enjoyed following along with this rebuild I almost don't want it to end.
Ha ya..Diesel vette would be something! It is a T56 6 speed from a 98 Camaro, two overdrives should change the car a little bit. The U-joint I needed must be fairly normal cause Part Source had some in stock. Moog 354 and 353 (353 is the combination one). Also did some measuring and looks like the shaft needs to be 3.0" shorter. Hopefully this weekend proves to be similar for progress and I can get the cross member in and drive shaft ready to go.
As for powder coating...I almost bought a home kit when I started doing chassis components. Kinda wish I had, but this car will be well maintained and (for the most part) nice weather driven so a good coat of paint should do.
T
As for powder coating...I almost bought a home kit when I started doing chassis components. Kinda wish I had, but this car will be well maintained and (for the most part) nice weather driven so a good coat of paint should do.
T
Well got the driveshaft shortened. I am not pleased with my welds but it should work. I cut off the end at the 3" mark. Machined out the yoke (I love having a lathe). Stuck it in my weld rotator (on of my projects that actually turned out real nice and handy). Welded....fixed my weld.....fixed it again...etc. Anyway the final product is just OK looking. I did torque test it to a static 600 ft lb. Handled it no problem, so I am saying it is good. Now I am looking for someone to balance it before paint and install.
I also got the trans cross member bolted back in. Haven't done anymore with aligning it yet though. Hopefully I can find someone to balance the driveshaft this week and get that all buttoned up next weekend.
T
I also got the trans cross member bolted back in. Haven't done anymore with aligning it yet though. Hopefully I can find someone to balance the driveshaft this week and get that all buttoned up next weekend.
T
I have
I’m the worst welder ever. After 3 welders I looked at the last one and said “it’s not you... it’s me”.
Very impressive work Taylor.
Looking good Taylor. And if you'd like to see some welds to be ashamed of the looks, come see mine. My dogs even laugh at me when I weld....
I’m the worst welder ever. After 3 welders I looked at the last one and said “it’s not you... it’s me”.
Very impressive work Taylor.
I DARE TO step up and say I AM the popcorn Miester of der velderer yobbers! Helments off to ya bud!I have
I’m the worst welder ever. After 3 welders I looked at the last one and said “it’s not you... it’s me”.
Very impressive work Taylor.
Well I stopped by a driveline place to see about getting my drive shaft balanced. The guy there suggested it would be difficult due to the number of starts and stops in my welds. He was also hesitant due to the pitting and material loss due to the corrosion that was on it. He suggested it would be around $350-$400 just to balance and that the shaft may not hold up anyway. He also suggested they could make a custom one with "proper" yokes and u-joints for around $700. That is more than I am wanting to spend right now on it.
Corvette Central sells brand new stock fit ones with u-joints for $200 USD so I am hoping that whoever they get to make those may be able to make a custom one for me. I sent an email to CC to ask about it.
I guess another alternative is to buy a new one for $200 USD and shop around for someone to shorten it for cheaper than the place I went.
All in all my welds, although I am not worried about strength, and the fact that it was old and rusty are causing me to look for a different drive shaft.
Damn
T
Corvette Central sells brand new stock fit ones with u-joints for $200 USD so I am hoping that whoever they get to make those may be able to make a custom one for me. I sent an email to CC to ask about it.
I guess another alternative is to buy a new one for $200 USD and shop around for someone to shorten it for cheaper than the place I went.
All in all my welds, although I am not worried about strength, and the fact that it was old and rusty are causing me to look for a different drive shaft.
Damn
T
Well with the driveshaft in limbo I turned back to the interior. I had some help one day so we primed the inside floorboards. Not needed but my helper was wanting to do something and I figured it wouldn't hurt.
Started final fitting the pedals. Guess I never checked them with the steering column in cause there was some interference.
A little grinding fixed the problem but the clutch switch may be hard to plug in...I guess i will tackle that when it comes.
Started to disassemble the steering column for paint. Interior is going mainly black so want to change the column to black. Also gives me a chance to change the ignition tumbler (that i was going to do about 8 years ago!) I debated deleting the key all together but it would mean modifying the column and I am not sure I want to do that just yet....there would be no returning it back to stock. The tumbler didn't want to come out but with a bit of force it eventually did.
Side note: I also found out why my steering wheel had such a huge wobble when rotating around! There is a recess in the hub where the 3rd spoke fits in. I guess whoever put it on last didn't know and the spoke was sitting up on the edge. Here i though the wheel was bent. A bonus since I don't have to screw with the wheel now!
T
Started final fitting the pedals. Guess I never checked them with the steering column in cause there was some interference.
A little grinding fixed the problem but the clutch switch may be hard to plug in...I guess i will tackle that when it comes.
Started to disassemble the steering column for paint. Interior is going mainly black so want to change the column to black. Also gives me a chance to change the ignition tumbler (that i was going to do about 8 years ago!) I debated deleting the key all together but it would mean modifying the column and I am not sure I want to do that just yet....there would be no returning it back to stock. The tumbler didn't want to come out but with a bit of force it eventually did.
Side note: I also found out why my steering wheel had such a huge wobble when rotating around! There is a recess in the hub where the 3rd spoke fits in. I guess whoever put it on last didn't know and the spoke was sitting up on the edge. Here i though the wheel was bent. A bonus since I don't have to screw with the wheel now!
T
So i decided to take another look at the Camaro steering column. It would have some advantages to using it when it comes to wiring. The cruise and wipers will be on the column already so I wouldn't need to add any buttons on the dash. Started disassembling and found some good news. The spline and atacment for the steering wheel hub is identical.....and the hub fits the lower shroud piece beautifully!
So i decided to try to mod the mounts to works and go from there:
Added bonus this steering column has tilt!
Got it fitting pretty good with some new brackets. The shaft is a bit shorter sticking through the firewall when I get the wheel position the same as stock.......but I will make something work there later!
Gave it some black paint and need to find more time for assembly.
All in all very pleased with the results so far. Didn't delete the ignition key but I think I am ok with that.
T
So i decided to try to mod the mounts to works and go from there:
Added bonus this steering column has tilt!
Got it fitting pretty good with some new brackets. The shaft is a bit shorter sticking through the firewall when I get the wheel position the same as stock.......but I will make something work there later!
Gave it some black paint and need to find more time for assembly.
All in all very pleased with the results so far. Didn't delete the ignition key but I think I am ok with that.
T
Nice Taylor. Beauty project man. And to top in off, your boy now can tell all his friends that he helped Dad paint his Corvette. 
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