With my C6 I just left the car in the garage for the winter. I started it a few times and charged the battery occasionally. Now that I have a new C7 I bought the battery tender that you plug into the trunk outlet. I was wondering if there was anything else I should do before letting the car sit in the garage?
Winter Storage Question
- Thread starter ourwully
- Start date
It is an option. $110.00 for a $30.00 tender with the C7 badge on it... lol...
Hi Wully:
Based on my research, and many years of storing seasonal vehicles, it seems that winterizing the C7 requires a mixture of old and new techniques. The "new" has to do with the fuel level in the tanks. Previous thinking dictated that the fuel tanks should be full so as to prevent condensation build up over the storage period. However, according to a number qualified C7 techs, the fuel tanks should be filled to just under 1/4. This is to prevent sulphur build-up on the fuel sender which has been a problem with some cars that are not driven regularly and / or are not using Top Tier fuel. Again, based on my research, this preventative approach makes sense as the service procedure involved in replacing the fuel sender is extensive, to say the least.
So, here's how I'll be storing my C7:
- Fuel tanks filled to just under 1/4 tank. Correct amount of Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer added. Take the car for a short run just before storing so as to circulate the gas / stabilizer throughout the entire fuel system.
- Wash, dry and wax the car. Clean and wax the wheels to remove all brake dust. (It's corrosive and may cause pitting in the paint / chrome if not removed.
- 3 quarts / liters of moisture absorbent pellets (desiccant) in cloth bags placed inside of the vehicle.
- Tires inflated to 40 psi.
- Battery tender connected to the rear cargo 12V port. Yes, it's okay to close the hatch on the tender's cord.
- Indoor cover installed just to keep the dust off.
Again, this is just my procedure. There are many other schools of thought out there that, I'm sure, will work just as effectively.
Best regards
Ross
Based on my research, and many years of storing seasonal vehicles, it seems that winterizing the C7 requires a mixture of old and new techniques. The "new" has to do with the fuel level in the tanks. Previous thinking dictated that the fuel tanks should be full so as to prevent condensation build up over the storage period. However, according to a number qualified C7 techs, the fuel tanks should be filled to just under 1/4. This is to prevent sulphur build-up on the fuel sender which has been a problem with some cars that are not driven regularly and / or are not using Top Tier fuel. Again, based on my research, this preventative approach makes sense as the service procedure involved in replacing the fuel sender is extensive, to say the least.
So, here's how I'll be storing my C7:
- Fuel tanks filled to just under 1/4 tank. Correct amount of Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer added. Take the car for a short run just before storing so as to circulate the gas / stabilizer throughout the entire fuel system.
- Wash, dry and wax the car. Clean and wax the wheels to remove all brake dust. (It's corrosive and may cause pitting in the paint / chrome if not removed.
- 3 quarts / liters of moisture absorbent pellets (desiccant) in cloth bags placed inside of the vehicle.
- Tires inflated to 40 psi.
- Battery tender connected to the rear cargo 12V port. Yes, it's okay to close the hatch on the tender's cord.
- Indoor cover installed just to keep the dust off.
Again, this is just my procedure. There are many other schools of thought out there that, I'm sure, will work just as effectively.
Best regards
Ross
A couple of other things to do supposedly is to put "Bounce" fabric softener sheets in the car/trunk ad put steel wool in the mufflers. This is, supposedly, to keep the mice out.
Seems to me a few extra mice in the motor via the mufflers would increase horse(mice)power next year. LOL
Thanks very much for the detailed advice. There are a few things there that I wouldn't have thought of.
I didn't order the winter package but I did buy a supposedly better battery tender for $60 via Amazon.ca.
I guess starting it up once and a while is a no no?
Hopefully there will be a few good days left.
I didn't order the winter package but I did buy a supposedly better battery tender for $60 via Amazon.ca.
I guess starting it up once and a while is a no no?
Hopefully there will be a few good days left.
It's best not to start the vehicle during the storage period unless you're going to take it out for a run that will bring the engine up to full operating temperature. Starting and idling the engine for a few minutes equates to a "cold start" and, while it's not likely to do irreparable damage if done only a few times, it's not a great idea.
Forgot to mention in my previous post, If the Oil Life Indicator is below 35% it's a good idea to change the oil prior to storage. If it's above that level you're good to go until the next oil change interval. This information comes from a Mobil 1 engineer.
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Well.... It's done.... Cruisin yesterday... Tucked into bed today... 
Even Bravo was feeling for me...
Even Bravo was feeling for me...
I’ll bet it was nice to have the Vette out yesterday..that was a long season.
BRAVO looks cool.
Graham
BRAVO looks cool.
Graham
Looks like a double Rruff day putting it away!Well.... It's done.... Cruisin yesterday... Tucked into bed today...
Even Bravo was feeling for me...
View attachment 20964
It was Richard. I think Bravo knew that there was some finality in the Vette going to bed. Even if he knows he doesn't get to ride in it anyway. I took him out in the truck today looking for coyotes. He forgot all about the Vette pretty quick... lol...
I disconnect the battery and use a $4.99 ‘trickle charger’ from Harbor Freight on all the cars I store.
I don’t bother with fuel stabilizer...the car doesn’t have carburetors and floats to gum up. That was for old school decades ago.
I do close the car and use the key in the latch near the trunk release button to open it, then reconnect the battery. Or pull the inside release to open the door.
I only over-inflate tires 2psi and cover the car. It’s stored in a heated garage.
That’s about it.
I don’t bother with fuel stabilizer...the car doesn’t have carburetors and floats to gum up. That was for old school decades ago.
I do close the car and use the key in the latch near the trunk release button to open it, then reconnect the battery. Or pull the inside release to open the door.
I only over-inflate tires 2psi and cover the car. It’s stored in a heated garage.
That’s about it.
If the car is a manual. I leave it in neutral and release the E brake.
Put gas stabilizer in gas tank, turn engine on and let it run for 5 min., and styrofoam pads (rubber etc.) under wheels. This is all I do. Obviously, I washed mine before putting it to bed and over the winter I will wax it from stem to stern. Not sure we have to drive car on these pads - more of an issue in the old days?
I built 4 wood frames to hold a 2 inch piece of stryrofoam to cradle each tire. I make sure tire pressure is up to spec only.I don't overinflate. I keep my Vettecave at 6 degrees C all winter and humidity at about 43%, but thats more for my music instruments than it is for the car.
ohwa!!!! I luv your stuff on the garage walls and your collection of strings are impressive. I assume the whole placement of some material between the hard concrete and the rubber is to avoid flat spotting the tires. The verdict is still out for me....... some material like foam or just bump up the pressure.........
Frank for me the rubber material under the tires is for preventing flat spotting these soft tires. Not sure if it’s needed or not but it’s cheap piece of mind.
