And it begins....Body off

Well a bit of a set back as far as time goes but a better car because of it (I hope). Took the time to rework the lower a-arm mount to fix the bent one. Decided to go for the adjustable idea. As a note this only worked because I decided not to weld the stiffeners on when I fixed the frame. They need to move with the a-arm mount shaft for this to work. Anyway A bit of cutting and grinding and welding to get a cam system to work. I should be able to get up to 5 Deg caster with my new system but I will let you know where I let it sit when I get time to do the alignment on the front. Anyway the fun part:

Before:

You can see the right side mount doesn't even look even to the left side one. Can't believe I didn't even check it when i was fixing the frame. And then I gusseted it in there too. The string line was my center of chassis measuring line. Be cautious, because the engine sits off center there are many illusions that make the string look off center as well.

I started with the bent side and left the other side untouched for reference measuring. cut off stock mount:


I designed the plates and cams and had them plasma cut at my work. Tack in the main plate using the stiffener as a hole spacing guide and measuring to the stock hole position:


Close up of some gobby welds. Not pretty but I know there is penetration:


The gussets are spaced to fit the cam so it can push off the gussets as it turns.

After both sides are welded:


Paint (not POR15 but oh well) and assembly:


Be interesting to see how well this paint holds up compared to the POR15. I am planning to touch up with the chassis coat so it will get that as well.

Not real clear but close up of the cam system:


The square hole is made to accept a 3/8" ratchet (with extension) for adjusting the cam. Had to put it on top so future adjustments will be a bit tricky but it was the only way I could figure out how to do it.

Oh ya had to slot the other end bolt hole to allow the movement. Only about 3/32" so not worried about structure.

This gives me about 1/2" movement from stock location at the rear 9/16" bolt (cam). At the ball joint I get about 15/16" forward movement from stock and 5/16" outward movement from stock. The outward movement can be adjusted for by the top shims to correct the camber.

Once again I cannot say this worked until I do the alignment but I am confident it will. I will post the alignment specs when I finish it.

T
 
Well got the front alignment done.

Settled in at about 3-1/2 Deg caster. With slightly less on drivers side to compensate road crown. 1/2 Deg positive camber to allow for some movement when the weight is actually on the front hubs. and 1/8" total toe in.

I will be checking everything again when assembly is done and the body is on, but it is a heck of a good starting point.

Now to continue with the chassis I need to pick up some brake pads and get the calipers installed. Along with brake lines, fuel lines, and fuel tank.

That's all for now. will update more as things happen.

Oh I think I decided I want C5 Z06 style rims but painted black. If i can make them work nicely. Just a thought for now.

T
 
Small update. No pics yet. Got the Park brake kit. Went to install and realized the anchor bolt needed to be installed before the spindle was pressed in. Unfortunately i had to remove the trailing arm and push the spindle out about 1/2" to get the anchor bolt in. I have done the right side only at this point and in the process ruined the spindle nut. so now I have to order some new ones. Damn. However since the trailing arm was off I relocated the park brake bracket for tire clearance.

So when I get the spindle nuts I can reinstall the arm. And then I have to recheck the alignment. Damn.

Try to do the left side tonight and take pics to post.


Damn. If you can't tell I am not happy about this process. Make sure if you are rebuilding your own trailing arms to remember to put the park brake anchor (and shoe pin) on before you press the spindle.

DAMN!!!

T
 
Well that sucks but hopefully someone can learn from your mistake and save themselves time, however, this still isn't as good as doing it the right way the first time and warning people of this potential problem. BUT anyway, keep up the great work! I'm very impressed with everything you've done so far!
 
Sorry to hear of your trouble but it's all part of the learning process. There will always be some setbacks but there will be victories as well. You're doing a great job if that helps any.
 
Well got the spindle nuts installed and trailing arms back on the car. Checked alignment and all was good. Relocated park brake cable bracket while the arms were off.

Ran all the park brake cables. Installed the pulley on the cross member.

Tugged on the cable to see the movement ..... the stop ball pulled of the end of the LH cable! Looking closely it seems it was never crimped on. The other side has 4 marks on the ball, which to me seem like crimp inspection marks.



So i couldn't finish the rear brakes yet. I will be emailing CC to see what can be done. I waited 6 months for this e brake kit and it was faulty.

Ran the front brake lines and installed the front calipers. Looks good. The pre-made lines fit pretty close though I expected a little better.







Right side e-brake looks good.



If I can sort out the e-brake crap I can get the wheels back on soon and focus on the engine and tranny.

Coming along nicely. Looking good too. Other than all the dust. Man I hope the weather smartens up so I can start pressure washing things. Minus 34C without wind this morning....BRRRR.

T
 
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