I have a 4 post lift with the jacking tray that moves front to back. I know there are the regular jacking points where the pucks go and on the aluminum frame inside the A arms. But can I jack directly on the aluminum A arms close to the wheels? If I can then I can lift the car and put support where the pucks are and I would not have to lift the car so high to get the wheels off the ground. Thanks
Jacking a C7
- Thread starter Vetteing
- Start date
You can jack the car anywhere you want but it is a perilous idea. The jacking points are engineered in the locations offered. This is lightweight car using light materials designed to take specific stress directions and moments on the components. Personally I would never deviate from the engineered lifting points.
Your question is interesting as it is the first time I have seen it here. Perhaps someone is jacking in different locations for similar or other reasons and will chime in.
So I have a four post lift with a sliding jack. The jack arms work on every vehicle except the Vette, as the jacking points are farther out than on most vehicles and the arms are too short even at full extension. Long story short I called a dealer and explained my problem and was told not to jack anywhere but the 4 specific jacking points. Maybe the dealer is full of it but I heed their caution. I bought two low profile air bag jacks instead and raise the Vette on the lift using the air bag jacks.
Please DO NOT use any suspension or steering components for lifting your car. As you've noted, some of these items are made of aluminum, some are light weight structural steel and some are hollow. They will not take the weight of the car and are likely to be damaged. Using anything other than the factory recommended lift points would also present a serious safety hazard.
Use the jack points shown in the attachment and you'll be fine. If it's really inconvenient to use any of the factory contact points I'd suggest that you contact the manufacturer of your lift and explain the problem. It's possible that they have dealt with this issue before.
Best of luck.
Ross
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Hi umpy:
Bob has provided the latest lift point schematic but you'll also find it in the 20019 Owner's Manual on pages 220 to 222. Vehicle care, general, lifting.
Best regards
Ross
The owners manual is unclear at best. I lifted from the big crossmember behind the front wheels and from the small crossmember in front of the rear wheels.
Thanks for all the input. When Manny Dasilva was still open.... I remember he always had a bunch of hockey pucks lying around the shop near his lifts, as he used those as a riser when he lifted from the frame rails ( jack points shown in blue in picture above )
There are some on-line " do it yourself" systems that work really well. A hockey puck with an eye bolt drilled through and a well nut on the bottom. Turn the puck 45 degrees and the eye bolt locks into the frame rails when you do it right.
There are some on-line " do it yourself" systems that work really well. A hockey puck with an eye bolt drilled through and a well nut on the bottom. Turn the puck 45 degrees and the eye bolt locks into the frame rails when you do it right.
Just depends what you want to spend...or if you like building things yourself... You can spend $50 to over $100.00 for these if you want.... or $3.00 if you know how to use a drill and a wrench .... lol...
Or, for a few extra dollars, you can get the heavy practice pucks from CT, some threaded rod and, with a little welding, you'll end up with a much stronger and more durable set of jack pads.
The orange practice pucks are made of a heavier, more dense synthetic rubber and are less prone to splitting and deforming. The threaded rod is preferable to the eye bolts because the threads grip much better inside the shipping (T) slots. I tried the eye bolts first and, while they will work, found that they tended to slip when tightening / loosening.
I've been using these for going on 3 years and have had no problems. They provide sufficient clearance, when used with a low profile jack, for use with the factory side skirts on the GS / ZO6. They're cheap, less than $15.00, durable and easy to use.
The orange practice pucks are made of a heavier, more dense synthetic rubber and are less prone to splitting and deforming. The threaded rod is preferable to the eye bolts because the threads grip much better inside the shipping (T) slots. I tried the eye bolts first and, while they will work, found that they tended to slip when tightening / loosening.
I've been using these for going on 3 years and have had no problems. They provide sufficient clearance, when used with a low profile jack, for use with the factory side skirts on the GS / ZO6. They're cheap, less than $15.00, durable and easy to use.
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