1980 Corvette rebuild
- Thread starter Grumpy 427
- Start date
hope to see you soonTime for a little update. I am getting the interior back together along with the new stereo system. Getting parts from the vendors has been a pain in the ass. i wish they could get the orders right. Any way here is what we have so far. I go my speedo back s well, its now a 150mph unit.
Oh yeah the car is back on the ground for now, i am letting it settle to se where the suspension will sit.
Oh yeah the car is back on the ground for now, i am letting it settle to se where the suspension will sit.
WOW! Huge job.You've been busy.I did that to an 82 Jeep CJ5. Took me a two days to dismantle it,and a year to rebuild it.The feeling of accomplishment is well worth it.Thanks for sharing.Nice work.
ok the stereo is the big holdup. Its a ton of work to put one in a C3, and my buddy is building the speaker boxes to fit. The sub box is 22"x 11"x6" The amp to drive the sub sill mount on the face beside the sub. There is another amp tucked up under the front of the consul to run the front speakers and the rear 6x9 speakers. The 6x9 boxes are 7-1/2" x 11"x6" to mount on either side of the sub.
HA! JL and Alpine. That is what I have in my truck except the mids/tweets are the Alpine and the subs are JL. Very cool. Looks like you will have some great tunes with a great car.
I dont want to be a prude but as a LONG TIME car audio guy can I make a serious auditory suggestion????
Save your self some time with the amp wiring. I assume that you have a 4 channel amp also from the description you gave?
Bridge the amp to 2 channels and power your front components with it. I'd even consider getting rid of the 6x9's all together to be honest with you (from experience) BUT if you still want to run them, just throw deck power at them and then proceed to dial your stereo in with the fader set all the way to the front and then stop the minute you start to hear absolutely any sound out of them.
Think of it this in a number of ways:
1. How good would a concert be if you sat with your BACK facing the stage
2. How many home stereos have the front speakers and center channel BEHIND you??
3. At most you should use rear speakers to bring rear seat passengers a little sound (obviously not an issue in your car) or to move the sound stage slightly rear ward if required.
4. Speakers should be round (LOL) non-round speakers sound like... NON-ROUND speakers!!!
5. Try the set-up with no rears at all, if you don't like it, then try out the rears but deck power only. With equal power to each, you'll over power the fronts really wasy. You'll get way nicer sound with the fronts getting all your amped power.
I just wanted to offer a little advice due to the fact that you've obviously done a lot of work on this car and you obviously have a lot of pride in your work and want the best result.
T
Save your self some time with the amp wiring. I assume that you have a 4 channel amp also from the description you gave?
Bridge the amp to 2 channels and power your front components with it. I'd even consider getting rid of the 6x9's all together to be honest with you (from experience) BUT if you still want to run them, just throw deck power at them and then proceed to dial your stereo in with the fader set all the way to the front and then stop the minute you start to hear absolutely any sound out of them.
Think of it this in a number of ways:
1. How good would a concert be if you sat with your BACK facing the stage
2. How many home stereos have the front speakers and center channel BEHIND you??
3. At most you should use rear speakers to bring rear seat passengers a little sound (obviously not an issue in your car) or to move the sound stage slightly rear ward if required.
4. Speakers should be round (LOL) non-round speakers sound like... NON-ROUND speakers!!!
5. Try the set-up with no rears at all, if you don't like it, then try out the rears but deck power only. With equal power to each, you'll over power the fronts really wasy. You'll get way nicer sound with the fronts getting all your amped power.
I just wanted to offer a little advice due to the fact that you've obviously done a lot of work on this car and you obviously have a lot of pride in your work and want the best result.
T
I have no idea what your talking about? i bought my last car stereo 25 yrs ago so its all new to me. I have a 45w X 4 alpine amp under the consul to run the 2 fronts and the 6x9's the big amp is for the sub. as long as it sounds half way decent thats all that matters. It cost way more than i wanted to spend on it but oh well thats life.
let me know if your interested at all and I'll try to guide you along a little more... up to you. I don't want to impose.
Well i got the car running tonight, and had to fill the tranny and re-set the timing as we moved it on the dyno to re drop the distributor. Car runs nice even with open headers.
Spent the better part of the day working on the front wheels and tires. Will get the rears off this week, re bleed the brakes, adjust the E-brake And double check the trailing arms etc. Then get the rear wheels to look like the fronts.
Before.........
After.......
Before.........
After.......
If you keep this up, you are going to have a line up of people asking you to help with their projects!
yes attention to detail makes all the difference. I started with 220 grit sand paper, then etching primer, followed by sandable primer, then a plasticote flat black. Finished with 2 coats of clear. The power ball makes short work of the polishing too.
Similar threads
-
-
-
Saving a 90 ZR-1 in hibernation 20yrs. Cheap for a reason. FlyNDrive #7- Started by VikingTrad3r
- Replies: 17
-
