Transmission yoke

Jr. Corvette

Jr. Corvette

Regular
2 You're 10
Jan 1, 2014
340
576
Calgary AB
VetteCoins
7,087
Car
77 Corvette L82
Province
AB
Hey guys.

So recently I've taken off my driveshaft in order to stop a clunking noise when I put it into reverse or from reverse to forward. I figured it was the U-joints. I've also heard it could be play in the tail of the transmission. I've got everything painted up but I had tons of grease all over the tail of my transmission. I wanted to replace the yoke seal but from reading other posts I've heard that there are other seals that may need to be replaced and it's better to take the tail off and refurbish it. What do you guys think I should do?
 
Hi Jr.. Did you fix the clunking noise? If the "U" joints were ok take a look at the mount rubber at the front of the differential under the yoke and check for excess pinion slop in the diff as well. If it is just grease on the transmission tail shaft don't worry about it but if it is trans oil the rear trans seal needs to be replaced.. its an easy job .. the tail housing is easily removed and the seal is cheap ( you will lose a bit of oil).. remember to order a tail housing "o" ring for where it bolts to the rest of the trans.
 
Thx for the help guys. I don't know if I fixed the clunking noise yet. I think it might have been the U-joints however I definitely think it could be excessive movement in the transmission. I just don't want to not do it and put it all back together and still have that clunk.

Last time I was checked I don't have any rubber diff mounts. I don't have a great look at the transmission but I never saw and rubber mounts either. As for the motor mounts they do need to be replaced but I don't think that's the cause. I do have tranny fluid leaking at the back so that seal will need to be replaced. Regarding the tail of the transmission, are there any tips or suggestions that could be useful to take it off and repair it? Thanks for the information on O-rings!
 
Also any help on how to remove the rear transmission mount would be helpful. I've got the two bottom bolts out but the two to the side that attach the mount to the transmission look impossible without removing the crossmember.
 
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Hey guys! Thanks for all the advice! I talked to a tranny guy and he said based on what I told him that there really shouldn't be anything wrong with the tranny other than it could be a bushing inside the tail or a thrown bearing but that would require a tranny drop. I decided to skip the hassle and just wait till I rebuild the motor and at that time I'll much around with the tranny. It's a 77 corvette with Automatic tranny. The crossmember does remove but I'd have to drop the exhaust. So I replaced the U-joints and the output shaft seal. Hopefully all is good. Btw I painted with zero rust then rebuilders cast finish and topped off with POR15 clear. Honestly that POR15 makes it look and feel like it's been Powdercoated!
 
Thanks buckhorn. Ya I got a little obsessive on the underside of my car and have under coated it (never again), rebuilt and powder coated the front end and (for now) just painted the rear and serviced. After years of working on my dad's truck as a kid I hated rust constantly falling in your face and I never wanted it to happen again ;). I usually like to use White lithium grease but will it do anything to spray it on like my old U-joints for the half shafts? Where all do you recommend spraying it?
 
well my 2 cents : rear tranny seal is easy to pop out and install a new one, no need to take the tail shaft off. Look closely at the yoke where the seal mates it, if there is a grove worn into it then that will give less pressure on the seal lip and could leak again. I kinda doubt the clunk is tranny related, more like the pinion shaft in the rear diff is worn and you got slap in the gears. Easy to try, just see how much it takes to turn the driveshaft before it engages the wheels forward to reverse. If very little play then she is good, but if the driveshaft moves say a couple of inches then you got worn pinion shaft / gears usually. This is presuming all the U-joints are ok too. Engine idle speed if to high can cause abit of a clunck too cause it is to hard hitting.
 
spraying moving parts such as the e-brake pulley assembly and any linkages etc.under the car will ensure that they keep operating smoothly. white lithium is good for certain places and i like to use it on electrical connections, grounds and battery cables, carb linkages etc. however, engine fogging oil is what i use when i lube parts that require good penetration. i use it on under body linkages, seat track mechanisms, hood release latches and cable assemblies, headlight door pivots just to name a few. i use the fogging oil because it is thin yet sticks, penetrates, and acts as a rust preventative. it always amazes me the way it can free up stuck parts. the only thing for u-joints is a grease gun, if they're good but not taking grease, try a needle fitting. nice car, enjoy.
 
Thx Buckhorn! I'll do that!

XFire- I did end up replacing the output shaft seal and it was smooth other than a very fine groove around that area you mentioned. I'll try and see how much it moves tonight. I was thinking it could be that too but was praying that it wasn't because that's a job I really don't have time for as I'm planning on painting her this winter. I that makes sense that it would clunk from high idle but from reverse to forward it clunks an the idle is around 600.
 
I checked the shaft last night and it doesn't seem to move much before engaging. To little to even define. Maybe like 1/32nd of a full rotation. Anyway the proof is in the pudding so once I get her all put back together I'll let you guys know if it fixed it.
 
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Hey guys. So I got the beast out tonight and the clunk is gone. Sadly it was short lived. My engine had an odd noise before I did the drivetrain work an I was talking with some fellow car enthusiasts about it. I took it out tonight and lost almost all my oil. My value covers had worked there way loose. Once at my friends house we were listening and it sounded terrible. It started knocking and then a terrible squeal. The bearing went. So in she goes until I can afford a new motor. On the bright side the Clunk is Gone!!! A well The Lord provides so I'm not worried.
 
Thanks guys. Ya I've gotten a couple engines that I could probably get for real cheap from the local car community. However, I'm kind of leaning towards either a zz350 create engine or zz383. I just don't want to pull the motor to plop in an a used motor than later down the road have to do it all over again to put in what I want. I was thinking just the block with pistons and heads etc. and then throw on the new goodies I put on my motor.
 
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