I have a battery cut off switch connected to mine, but it is a pain in the butt to remember to turn it off.
My C3 died again
- Thread starter corvettec3Az
- Start date
GREAT IDEA!
If the drain is small, solar charger might do the job. my wife 2017 Honda crv doesn't move muche since covid, she work from home and, most of the time, only go once a week for grocery so she is using more power from the battery then she produce running it. The battery was runnig down every month. Solar charger does the job. Btw, newer cars are sometime a pita to reset after the battery got to low.
Last edited:
Have you had a chance to ask the shop to check the alternator, maybe its not sufficient for the battery or its on on ts way out. Does the battery light come on while driving? Do the dash lights dimm if you turn on the headlights, radio and a/c all at the same time.
Also check the negative ground wire that connects to the classy , maybe rust between the chassis and the bolt.
Also check the negative ground wire that connects to the classy , maybe rust between the chassis and the bolt.
The non-working clock should be a red flag. As previously suggested, a non-working clock draws more power if the mechanism is jammed.
- Thread starter
- #26
hey guys my c3 is dead again..battery is completely dead and the repair shop I have been going to has no idea whatz happening..they have had my car over 2 weeks and still can't give me an answer what's wrong and where the battery drain is..at thus point they are avoiding me..im really frustrated..any other ideas? thx
- Thread starter
- #27
hey guys for the last 2 and a half weeks battery in my vette is dead. ship doesn't know why there is a drain and at this point they are avoiding my calls to them. they have my car it seems that they do not know what they are doing...suggestions? comments?
Post #4 and #6 will give you a great start. Have you checked this stuff personally or are you relying on the shop? I would suggest to disconnect the clock- actually remove the wiring to the clock- as you said it does not work. This will eliminate a very likely culprit. Secondly, add a battery disconnect. This will prevent current draw when it’s not running.
Have they checked the alternator output? If that’s insufficient, your battery will die- not from sitting, but from driving. I would assume any decent garage has confirmed the alternator output is good, but best to be sure.
If you are committed to fixing a draw, I would find an automotive electrical specialist to look at it. Never know- there could be some short somewhere that is not obvious. These are pretty simple cars really, but with the age- there could be bad repairs or aftermarket parts that are causing problems. An electrical specialist will charge, but will find the issue pretty quick.
Have they checked the alternator output? If that’s insufficient, your battery will die- not from sitting, but from driving. I would assume any decent garage has confirmed the alternator output is good, but best to be sure.
If you are committed to fixing a draw, I would find an automotive electrical specialist to look at it. Never know- there could be some short somewhere that is not obvious. These are pretty simple cars really, but with the age- there could be bad repairs or aftermarket parts that are causing problems. An electrical specialist will charge, but will find the issue pretty quick.
Your comment about bad alternator is a good one. If you have ever had your car die on the road, then learn it was the bad alternator, you just can't believe it. How true it is though!
- Thread starter
- #30
lol the c3 since I've owned it has been in the shop more than I drove it..lol ..is that normal for a 1978 c3?
- Thread starter
- #31
I have to rely on shop since I have no garage and ita 114f here in the daytime. impossible to look at any car in this freaking heat..
- Thread starter
- #32
plus I'm not mechanic
Understood. Just trying to get a sense of how to assist. If you’re not working on it personally, then my suggestion is to confirm with the current shop that alternator output is fine, and then take it to an automotive electrical specialist.
In the mean time you could ask them to install a battery disconnect.
Keep us posted.
In the mean time you could ask them to install a battery disconnect.
Keep us posted.
A
alternator?
Had exactly the same thing happen to me on my C5 last month. A new battery on a charger, etc. and it would not turn over. It turned out to be a bad new battery. So much for the discount Canadian Tire on sale batteries for me...back to Red Tops!
Post number #4 is how it has to be done.
my last battery problem was indeed an alternator problem. I searched for an electrical issue for weeks until I met a competent mechanic who tested the alternator and confirmed it was not producing enough voltage to keep the car running and recharge the battery. I changed the alternator myself. Very easy. An exchanged unit cost me $120. The engine now start well, with an 8 years old battery.
I would hope any shop would have tested the alternator by now especially after they have replaced at least one battery.
As an electrician I suggest you find an auto shop that knows exactly how to use a multimeter correctly. That means they know how to troubleshoot circuitry.
OR call a electrician friend or a friend of a electrician friend that will take an hour or two to troubleshoot the issue.
Good luck, C3 ....
- Thread starter
- #39
I thought they did know..they have 4.7 out of 5 stars they should know what there doing
Hi.
The on-line rating likely doesn't apply to a issue like yours. What you need is "old school" troubleshooting skills.
A modern shop, or independent shops trying to stay relevant, are purchasing and using analyzers to trouble shoot or for identifying common problems and failed devices on newer cars.
I think the solution to your issue will boil down to plain old hard work and determination .... I still recommend you should find another shop. Nothing malicious. The shop you tried twice (?) simply has not been able fix your car. You need to find someone that knows how to confidently use a multimeter and work through each circuit.
Corvettec3Az, I emphasized "confidently" because I have worked with people that tell me "they know how" but cannot even identify the AC Volts setting from the DC Volts setting on a quality meter ....
Lets hope you get to the bottom of the problem quickly and enjoy your ride!
The on-line rating likely doesn't apply to a issue like yours. What you need is "old school" troubleshooting skills.
A modern shop, or independent shops trying to stay relevant, are purchasing and using analyzers to trouble shoot or for identifying common problems and failed devices on newer cars.
I think the solution to your issue will boil down to plain old hard work and determination .... I still recommend you should find another shop. Nothing malicious. The shop you tried twice (?) simply has not been able fix your car. You need to find someone that knows how to confidently use a multimeter and work through each circuit.
Corvettec3Az, I emphasized "confidently" because I have worked with people that tell me "they know how" but cannot even identify the AC Volts setting from the DC Volts setting on a quality meter ....
Lets hope you get to the bottom of the problem quickly and enjoy your ride!