HELP V.A.T. key stuck in ignition in run position

When the key turn, it turn the sector, it pulls the lock pin that go in the tooth ring, this is th last part on the right side of the diagram, ( the round thing with tooth all around) it locks the steering wheel when the key is removed, it also pull the ignition switch actuator rod, the switch itself is mounted lower on the column. the sector is sping loaded by the steel wire that is hold by a screw (the only one you see in this image) that wire also hold the pin (top right) to the sector. All these part can be the source of the problem + the ignition swith itself ( the electric one on the column) I have seen broken actuator, seized ignition sitch and worn out cylinder or keys, they all end up with the same issue. If I was a better computer tech, I would copy your diagram and put some arrow to what I would like you to check. I hope it help, I will fallow your tread and try to help. My english isn't that good but I am sure your can pick what I am trying to say.

Good luck
Stephane
 
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Rruuff Day said:
Wow.... The variety and depth of knowledgeable CCF members that step up to the plate to help fellow members never fails to amaze me.... :thumbs:
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i agree. i know nothing about the internal working of cars in general but with this thread and links given to me.... i have learnt more than i ever did in high school autoshop. well, which was back in 1987.... if only i paid attention and stopped chasing girls back then.
 
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theboss said:
When the key turn, it turn the sector, it pulls the lock pin that go in the tooth ring, this is th last part on the right side of the diagram, ( the round thing with tooth all around) it locks the steering wheel when the key is removed, it also pull the ignition switch actuator rod, the switch itself is mounted lower on the column. the sector is sping loaded by the steel wire that is hold by a screw (the only one you see in this image) that wire also hold the pin (top right) to the sector. All these part can be the source of the problem + the ignition swith itself ( the electric one on the column) I have seen broken actuator, seized ignition sitch and worn out cylinder or keys, they all end up with the same issue. If I was a better computer tech, I would copy your diagram and put some arrow to what I would like you to check. I hope it help, I will fallow your tread and try to help. My english isn't that good but I am sure your can pick what I am trying to say.

Good luck
Stephane
Click to expand...

i am watching what you say very close. i have a feeling that what your telling me is exatcly whats happening. i will post more vids as i work on the vette. and yes, i can definitely make out what your saying.
 
so after watching a few thousand videos on wheel pulling and getting to the ignition cylinder... i found no diagrams or videos of this type of system. I had to wing it at certain points. anywhoo

this is what it looked like with the horn cap removed.
-2 silver screws come off first
-then the star screw gets removed
-and the black telescoping lock rod
-theres a clip of some sort under that black rod.... wich is going to be a royal pain to put back on
19511486_573949422993216_7995803962051018326_n.jpg


this is what it looks like after those items and the 21mm bolt are removed
19511545_573949592993199_4358460151841244573_n.jpg


now the strreing wheel has been pulled. i want to remove the locking plate to get access to the ignition cylinder but found stuff i did not expect. i dont know what the yellow plastic stuff is or how to remove it. i also dont know what the blue plate underneath is. i didnt see this in any video on any GM column. I was hoping to find the ordinary bolt and snap ring. but nooooooo.

anyone know how to remove this junk? i have the lock plate removal tool. im just sort of stuck at this point and dont want to mess it up.

19554373_573949716326520_6296114977136070057_n.jpg
 
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i found out its a horn contact retainer and the c-ring should be under it. but i have also found that they tend to break when removing it. so im gunns go to the vette and see if i can do it without breaking it and how it fits in.
 
Hi Steve. I have been looking in all my books and on ''Mitchell On Demand'' where we pick all the info and specifications to repair cars and no picture looks like your column. I saw a picture on another website , but no instruction. I don't recall fixing a telescopic steering column. All the ones I did had a small snap ring to remove, not a big c clip like yours I am sure under this plate it is the same as the other column, you might try try this trick, it's from a C3 but I think it should work
or this one for a C4 just copy the like and go on google.. you are geeting closer, I am sure you will get it.

Good luck
Stephane
 
hey thanks the boss, i got the lock plate off today by just putting wood blocks under the fork of the lock plate remover. now they say i have to remove the lower dash panel and disconnect the Vat wire and loosen the directional signal wires. i can see the cylinder screws that i need to remove already but i just need to move a few things out of the way and ill be there.

again ill keep making videos. today was hot and then it rained. i did very little work today. but ill keep this updated.

also anyone know how to remove the lower dash panel to access the wires? i wass just gunna start pulling screws and see what happens.
 
theboss said:
You are getting close, this lock cylinder will see the sunlight very soon
Click to expand...

do you have a link to a video or something where they show how to take off the lower driver side dash panel? i need to access the sleeve that covers the underside of the steering column to detach the VATS cable and signal mechanism before i can go further.

i cant find much info about removing that panel.

i could just start removing screws but i like to have an idea of what im doing before i screw everything up
 
I just looked at the Mitchell website and they only say ''remove lower panel'' , no images . Most of the time it's a pretty easy task. In most GM cars, the lower part have 7mm and 10mm screws (might also have a few phillips screws back then) and the upper part have clipped to the dash. I never did it on a C4 but did on my C6 and it was pretty easy. Sometime there is some re inforcement pieces of metal that you may have to remove to but also easy. Go ahead I am sure you will find the way, you were handy enough to get where you are at now the hardest part is done
 
i was just thinking the same thing. if i can take a steering wheel apart... the panel shouldn't stop me. its just what comes after lol.

im going to be posting more heavily edited videos using better colorization and sound. and a few new graphics. i probably will start doing a lot more corvette videos on my own vette and how to maintain it. as well as sneaking off to dealerships and other vette owners to review their vettes.

not advertising here at all.... just thinking out loud.
 
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Steve Fontaine said:
i was just thinking the same thing. if i can take a steering wheel apart... the panel shouldn't stop me. its just what comes after lol.

im going to be posting more heavily edited videos using better colorization and sound. and a few new graphics. i probably will start doing a lot more corvette videos on my own vette and how to maintain it. as well as sneaking off to dealerships and other vette owners to review their vettes.

not advertising here at all.... just thinking out loud.
Click to expand...
Did I read correctly? You're going to start making Corvette videos? Ohhhh be still my beating heart !! Thank you !! I'm running out of content here. There's only so much crumbling piles of rock I can show you guys !! Yes Steve !! Film away please !! Lol. We need some Eastern Canada vid. I can tell you though,this endeavour of yours has been interesting. The end is in sight.
 
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