HELP V.A.T. key stuck in ignition in run position

Steve Fontaine

Steve Fontaine

Regular
You're 5
Nov 23, 2016
143
52
Edmonton
VetteCoins
621
Car
89 C4 Corvette
PROBLEM WITH 89 C4 CORVETTE LOCK CYLINDER

So yesterday i was driving to superstore and after parking the Vette, I couldnt turn the key to turn it off. After a massive panic episode i drove to the warehouse by my works main office looking for help from the warehouse guys. After a lot of hassle they got the key out. We decided to try the second set of keys just to see if there is any difference. It only made things worse. Now the key is jammed in the run position and we had to disconnect the battery to turn it off. Now the Vette is sitting at the warehouse with the key stuck in the ignition. but at least its locked and has a club on the steering wheel. i need to get it out of there ASAP.

I called a locksmith and he said it would be a 4 hour job and run $700 to change the cylinder and make new keys. I called B.S. and did some research. I found this place Corvette Parts & Accessories from Mid America Motorworks, 866.350.4540 that has the cylinders and keys. also Instructions on how to remove the steering wheel and replace the lock cylinder.

I dont mind buying a wheel puller and what not. Those are way cheaper than giving $700 to a scam artist.

My first question is..... how the hell do you get a V.A.T. key out of the ignition?
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I have had this problem with a couple of older GM vehicles. Try to push, pull and wiggle the shifter lever slightly in park while trying to turn the key off. The shifter/column linkage may be worn, misaligned or bent. There are mechanical adjustments between the two, and if not aligned correctly will exhibit the symtom you are describing. Best of luck.
 
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turbozig said:
I have had this problem with a couple of older GM vehicles. Try to push, pull and wiggle the shifter lever slightly in park while trying to turn the key off. The shifter/column linkage may be worn, misaligned or bent. There are mechanical adjustments between the two, and if not aligned correctly will exhibit the symtom you are describing. Best of luck.
Click to expand...

forgot to mention is automatic. but i will try anything. also i thought the key had to be removed to check the ohm resistor but since i have a second key.... i can read that one. I still just dont feel comfey with a key stuck in the ignition though.
 
Steve Fontaine said:
forgot to mention is automatic. but i will try anything. also i thought the key had to be removed to check the ohm resistor but since i have a second key.... i can read that one. I still just dont feel comfey with a key stuck in the ignition though.
Click to expand...

The automatic cars are the ones with that problem. Push up slightly on the console shifter lever and try turning the key.
 
Very good advice TurboZig.
I've never heard of the keys getting stuck in the ignition. Most of my older GM vehicles, I don't even need the key anymore as they almost fall out of the column now, however, they don't have the VATS chip. Interesting to know this can happen.
Keep us updated on how you're doing with this Steve!
 
well, im getting it towed on friday. then im going to find an ohm reader to check the resistor frequency and order the cylinder and blank keys. hopefully thats the only issue. im sure it is because ive noticed that the cylinder was acting weird from when i bought it 2 months ago. ive already had a heavy duty mechanic look through the engine and the thing is solid and sound. it was only driven 4000km in the past 10 years. has 170k on it so if anything is going to fail, its going to be small things like keys and weather stripping. ill keep this updated as it happens and make videos as well. because i am finding that this is one of those really oddball things that happen and there is almost no info on the net to sort out this specific situation.
 
we decided to reconnect the battery today thinking that maybe a reset would do something. im not sure if it was because the battery was at 11, but it was dam hard to start. when it did start, there wasnt a lot of power....it chugged for a bit and sputtered out. when i did get it going i had to keep my foot lightly on the gas to keep the rpm at 6. otherwise it sounded like it would sputter out and stall again. i decided also to risk driving it home. it seemed to work better after a bit of driving. Not sure what that was all about and im also not sure if it is related to the other issue. however, the reset did not work. the key will not turn back to the off position. sooooo i had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. and this time it did not shut off.......... i had to turn the key to the start position and of course i got the spark plug crunching noise. and only then did it shut down.

next im going to order a new cylinder and key after i check the resistor frequency and maybe check with a dealership for more info or a more reasonable price to fix this issue.

i will also be putting a bypass on that stupid thing so this never happens again.

i will keep this updated. but for now im just a guy who owns a corvette and can look at it in the driveway.
 
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Hi Steve, similar issues with the 96' C4 and I agree with Tubozig; ensure the shift AND the release button on top is firmly seated in park, wiggle it a little, that button must disengage. Then, and only then, can I remove my key. Probably manual linkage is worn or bent. Cheers, Tim
 
TimothyE said:
Hi Steve, similar issues with the 96' C4 and I agree with Tubozig; ensure the shift AND the release button on top is firmly seated in park, wiggle it a little, that button must disengage. Then, and only then, can I remove my key. Probably manual linkage is worn or bent. Cheers, Tim
Click to expand...

im not sure about this. we were able to remove the key a few times and never touched the shifter. also it worked flawlessly once or twice and again we never even touched the shifter. and a few times we couldnt even turn it on again from the off position. when we switched to another key.... it just totally locked. we didnt move the car or touch the shifter the whole time.

ive also checked the knob. that thing pops up no problem and is still clicking when pressed

another thing to note is that the key is locked to far forward. this isnt the normal position of the key when the car is running. if i turn the key half a cm.... it will trigger the starter and you get that loud scratching noise when the car is already running.

i could be totally wrong but i have a hunch that something in the cylinder gave way. the cylinder has been wonky since the day i got it.... 2 months ago lol
 
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Hi Steve. I've forwarded your vid to guy at my work who is a locksmith part time. If I hear of anything he might suggest,I'll pass that to this thread.
 
thanks guys for all the feedback. ive pulled the battery out of the car and disconnected the alternator. I also agree its a mechanical thing. but wee shall see soon. and i will keep posting vids as things progress. .
 
Hi Steve. From what I see, you have a Sagina steering column,. your cylinder might be deffective but it also might be the mecanism moved by the cylinder. I did fixe a lot of these back then on Chevrolet caprice (police cars). Your luck is that the key is turned, if I remember right, to remove the cylinder, the key have to be turn. The next step is to remove the steering wheel, the contact for the horn and the tooth ring (to lock the steering wheel) If I remember right you will need a steering puller and a tool to compress the tooth ring, it can be done without it but you will need a partner to remove the small locking ring that secure the tooth ring to the steering shat while you compress manualy the tooth ring. there is suppose to be a torx screw that lock the cylinder in the column, remove it then you can pull the cylinder out. With the cylinder in your hand, you can try to turn the key, if it turn, the mecanism in the steering column need to be fix or replace. If the key doesn't turn, bring it to a locksmith (that's what I use to do) he probably can fix it or put in a new one. If you decide to keep your hold keys and have the new cylinder recoded, make sure the key isn't to worn, they use to cause many problem because of that. I have to warn you, it's a little tricky to put everything back together at the end, the chrismast gift effect, goes out easy of the box but a sh...ty job to put it back in.

Good luck

Stephane
 
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theboss said:
Hi Steve. From what I see, you have a Sagina steering column,. your cylinder might be deffective but it also might be the mecanism moved by the cylinder. I did fixe a lot of these back then on Chevrolet caprice (police cars). Your luck is that the key is turned, if I remember right, to remove the cylinder, the key have to be turn. The next step is to remove the steering wheel, the contact for the horn and the tooth ring (to lock the steering wheel) If I remember right you will need a steering puller and a tool to compress the tooth ring, it can be done without it but you will need a partner to remove the small locking ring that secure the tooth ring to the steering shat while you compress manualy the tooth ring. there is suppose to be a torx screw that lock the cylinder in the column, remove it then you can pull the cylinder out. With the cylinder in your hand, you can try to turn the key, if it turn, the mecanism in the steering column need to be fix or replace. If the key doesn't turn, bring it to a locksmith (that's what I use to do) he probably can fix it or put in a new one. If you decide to keep your hold keys and have the new cylinder recoded, make sure the key isn't to worn, they use to cause many problem because of that. I have to warn you, it's a little tricky to put everything back together at the end, the chrismast gift effect, goes out easy of the box but a sh...ty job to put it back in.

Good luck

Stephane
Click to expand...

thanks theboss, everything i learn helps bigtime. i will post more vids as i continue and hopefully this thread will help vette owners that run into this situation. because i will not stop until every avenue has been explored and dealt with
 
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