Changing plugs and wires

Semis57 said:

Hey Nasty98, or anyone for that matter, can you help with shop tips for changing out plugs and wires in a '98? Any recommendations on purchasing same? Thanks!

1998 LS1 roadster, 78000km, all stock except tires, gas, and oil!

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If you have no mods, I would use a new set of stock LS2 wires and some AC delco plugs , if you have headers / CAI +++ I would use some MSD 8.8 wires and NGK plugs (TR55's headers only / TR6's if you have a cam )

Thx
Manny@E.C.P

Nasty98 said:

If you have no mods, I would use a new set of stock LS2 wires and some AC delco plugs , if you have headers / CAI +++ I would use some MSD 8.8 wires and NGK plugs (TR55's headers only / TR6's if you have a cam )

Thx
Manny@E.C.P

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:agree:but I wouldn't do that on a C6 (from some personal experience)
The NGK's tend to cause the C6 computers to throw codes with regards to the charging system.

Since you are stock, go to crappy tire and get the NGK tr55 ix. Also get the double swivel Snap on tool spark plug socket for the hard to reach plug on the driver side. Best socket investment you will buy.

S9721A, Socket, Spark Plug, Universal, Double Swivel, 5/8", 6-Point

Now that Snap-On tool looks perfect for the tool box, have to get me one of those.
Its dam tight on that driver side plug as mentioned.

not2melo said:

Now that Snap-On tool looks perfect for the tool box, have to get me one of those.
Its dam tight on that driver side plug as mentioned.

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You don't need this $70 tool . All I use a is a short extention and my ratchet and have never had a problem .


Thx
Manny@E.C.P

Semis57 said:

Thanks for the info, guys. Sounds like I'll have my hands full with the one spark plug.

I might not even get to the plugs this year as there is so much other stuff going on in the household and other stuff I'd like to do to the car...

Didn't GM put a 100 000 mile guarante on those plugs? Since I only have 78 000 km, I should be able to buy some time. The car runs great, it's not like I'm having any trouble or anything, so should I subscribe to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" way of thinking, or is this something I really need to do?

Appreciate the feedback.

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You should be fine, I only change the plugs on high mileage cars (100k+) or when installing headers or a cam .

Thx
Manny@E.C.P

Nasty98 said:

You don't need this $70 tool . All I use a is a short extention and my ratchet and have never had a problem .

Thx
Manny@E.C.P

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Manny, I need all those little tools and gadgets so my knuckles and fingers dont
get all smashed or better yet pay you to do it and I dont have to worry

Even though my ride had only 34k on it, the wires needed replacing due to age when they did the heads... Rob (Semis57) and I talked briefly over the phone the other day 'bout this

Nasty98 said:

You don't need this $70 tool . All I use a is a short extention and my ratchet and have never had a problem .


Thx
Manny@E.C.P

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Actually, I paid $40.00 tax in from my local Snap On Tool rep. I still think it's a very good investment and there's a life time warranty.

Nasty98 said:

If you have no mods, I would use a new set of stock LS2 wires and some AC delco plugs , if you have headers / CAI +++ I would use some MSD 8.8 wires and NGK plugs (TR55's headers only / TR6's if you have a cam )

Thx
Manny@E.C.P

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Hey Manny,
I have the Vortex Rammer and new Magnaflow exhaust system installed and my millage on my vette is 119,000 Km...Do you think I should change my Plugs and wires ??? What plugs and wires if so ???
Thanks

ve2yzb said:

Hey Manny,
I have the Vortex Rammer and new Magnaflow exhaust system installed and my millage on my vette is 119,000 Km...Do you think I should change my Plugs and wires ??? What plugs and wires if so ???
Thanks

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Your wires are most likely getting brittle by now and should be changed . You can upgrade to the C6 wires from GM or the MSD or LG ones . Plugs should still be fine , but it never hurts to check . Plugs that I would use for your application would be a set of NGK's TR55 or TR55ix gaped to .045 ( if needed ) check the plugs as most are already pre gapped .

Red Gm plug wires and Idirum plugs $105.66 plus shipping from GMPARTSHOUSE.COM.Great people to deal with.
People on the US corvette forum have great things to say about them.
I have bought some things, 1St class all the way. Gene Cully owner

tqracr said:

Red Gm plug wires and Idirum plugs $105.66 plus shipping from GMPARTSHOUSE.COM.Great people to deal with.
People on the US corvette forum have great things to say about them.
I have bought some things, 1St class all the way. Gene Cully owner

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Yup . like I said :agree:

Ok ...Thanks alot for that helpful info...and one more Question ... I just read this thread on pulley sqeaking or belt ..... When I bought my C5 the owner told me it sqeaked when it was cold and at idle only, when warm no more sqealling ...He replaced the belt twice but no change.... This is what I read on you this forum ( If it is still the factory balancer than it is most likely not the bolt but rather the pulley . The factory pulley has an elastomer center that seperates and causes the pulley to wobble . Shine a flashlight at the pulley and see if it is spinning true or wobbling .


If it wobbles you will need to have it replaced for sure and sooner than later.

Thx
Manny@E.C.P
Reply With Quote )

DO you think it might be my problem too or is it just natural for this to happen ?? And what pulley is it ? The crank shaft balancer pulley?
Sorry I didn't use the quote...

Here is something I have on my CD...


Technical - Accessory Drive Squeak (Replace Idler Pulley) #99-06-01-007 - (May 7, 1999)
Accessory Drive Squeak (Replace Idler Pulley)
1997 - 1999 Chevrolet Corvette

1998 - 1999 Chevrolet Camaro

1998 - 1999 Pontiac Firebird

with 5.7 L Engine (VIN G - RPO LS1)

Condition
Some customers may comment on a squeak noise coming from the engine or accessory drive while the engine is running . This squeak may vary in volume and may be heard inside the vehicle with the windows up and the radio on.

Cause
The idler pulley dust shield may distort during assembly due to torquing of the mounting bolt. This distortion may cause the idler pulley dust shield to contact the bearing race and the pulley resulting in the squeak noise.

Correction




A new idler pulley assembly is available with a thicker dust shield to prevent the distortion of the dust shield. The previous dust shield thickness is 0.61 mm. The new dust shield thickness is 1.37 mm.


Important
Do not over-torque the mounting bolt or the condition may reoccur.
Do not use pneumatic or electric tools for installation of the idler pulley assembly.

Tighten
Torque the idler pulley bolt to 50 N

Shine a flashlight at the crank pulley and see if it is spinning true or wobbling .


If it wobbles you will need to have it replaced for sure and sooner than later.

This is common on the alot of C5's & C6's as well .

Thanks Manny, your a great help and sooner or later I will go and visit your shop and shake your hand personally

ve2yzb said:

Thanks Manny, your a great help and sooner or later I will go and visit your shop and shake your hand personally

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Get in your vette and drive up this Saturday , I will even feed you

Anytime