Question Winterize

Tjn143

Tjn143

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Ontario
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VetteCoins
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C8 corvette
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Hi fam

Any suggestions on how to winterize my new c8 - I live in Toronto / Ontario

1) it’s in the garage
2) blocked off tail pipes with dryer sheet and foil paper
3) tank full
4) trickle charger on
5) I filled the gas tank to full. Could not get right amount of fuel stabilizer in - some people say not to put it in ??
6) what about tires cradles - are they needed
7) I have a cover

Anything I should or should I not do

Someone said it’s not a good idea to start it every other week as it builds condensation ?
What do u think ?
 
Wash, dry, oil change, fuel stabilizer, battery tender, cover, walk away.

Something under the tires won’t hurt but not sure if it is placebo effect. If there are mice around then covering tail pipe is a good idea. Mice around my place use dryer sheets as a comforter. So your call. Don’t start it up. You create condensation by starting the car.
 
Mice got up into my engine bay, so other than mothballs (which I've never used) mouse traps are a good idea. As above, dryer sheets are a deterrent and not a solution. I bought these from Amazon. The have a little door underneath so you can add the peanut butter without getting it all over the mechanism. Plus the second mouse doesn't get a free meal.
 
Tjn143 said:
Hi fam

Any suggestions on how to winterize my new c8 - I live in Toronto / Ontario

1) it’s in the garage
2) blocked off tail pipes with dryer sheet and foil paper
3) tank full
4) trickle charger on
5) I filled the gas tank to full. Could not get right amount of fuel stabilizer in - some people say not to put it in ??
6) what about tires cradles - are they needed
7) I have a cover

Anything I should or should I not do

Someone said it’s not a good idea to start it every other week as it builds condensation ?
What do u think ?
Click to expand...
Other than you using the term trickle charger, sounds like you have it pretty much covered. A trickle charger charges continuously and will overcharge. A battery 'tender' or 'maintainer' only kicks in when the voltage drops to a certain level and it shuts off when the voltage is back to full. Hopefully you just used the wrong terminology. If not, get a battery tender/maintainer.
 
All suggestions made are good. The only thing I do differently is disconnect the negative battery cable (I don't use a trickle charger). I do this for all my cars while they are in winter storage. Another benefit of doing this is that it eliminates the chance of an electrical fire should a short exist in the electrical system.
 
Zedaholic said:
All suggestions made are good. The only thing I do differently is disconnect the negative battery cable (I don't use a trickle charger). I do this for all my cars while they are in winter storage. Another benefit of doing this is that it eliminates the chance of an electrical fire should a short exist in the electrical system.
Click to expand...
DIsconnecting the battery disarms the alarm. If the car is in the garage leaving the battery connected is no different than in the summer when you drive the car. If in a facility away from your residence then, yes. I'd even take the battery home with me and keep it in your basement.
 
Battery tender is the best option if you live in an area where the battery might freeze. Keeping the battery fully charged helps keep it from freezing.
I would add the fuel stabilizer for sure, ethanol blended fuel is nasty stuff if allowed to sit for an extended period of time. Be sure to use stabilizer that specifically mentions ethanol blended fuel, not all do.
 
Doesn’t hurt to start it once in a while… i just let it run up to full operating temp and any condensation evaporates.
I ran a tender cord up thru the wiper panel so I can keep the batt charged.
 
Realize that there's some dispute on whether everything above is necessary:

-most people say periodic starting is NOT a good idea. But there are those "in the know" who say it should be done, pointing out that you NEED to start it long enough to get the engine fully warmed up...otherwise it's NOT good to start it for a short time only. And then others say do NOT start it at all; just keep it parked and properly stored. Or there are those who say you need to not only warm it up once in a while, but drive it to lubricate and get everything moving;

-most people tend to use fuel stabilizer however there are those who says it's a waste of money;

-99% of the people I've talked to or read their comments, agree with Rruuff Day's suggestion: use a battery tender and NOT a trickle charger; but then you have others who say you should disconnect your battery and not bother with anything that charges the car. Then there are those who say disconnecting the battery will shut down all on-board computers and screw up your settings later in the Spring;

-everyone seems to agree that if your vehicle is exposed to mice/rodents, you should take preventive measures so they don't access your engine or interior compartments. So yes, stuff the exhaust pipes with something they can't chew through (ie. steel wool). People say NOT to use moth balls since the smell is difficult to get rid of (ie. not only a deterrent to rodents), and recommend things like dryer sheets. Some worry about rodents chewing through wiring or other materials, to gain access to your "under-hood area" and nest there; so some set baited traps for rodents and check them;

-some fussy people say park your vehicle with silica sand (stored in a porous bag/bags), which absorbs moisture. This should prevent that "musty smell" when you open your doors in the Spring after it's been parked awhile. Others disagree and say that's not necessary. Or some will park a vehicle with the windows open a crack, for air flow;

-some say to inflate your tires to their maximum, to prevent "flat spots" on the tires after a few months of being parked AND to prevent air pressure loss over time, making the tires flat or under-inflated. Others say that's not a good idea and you should take the tires off and store the vehicle on stands. Then some say storing it on stands and having no weight on the springs/shocks will be bad for them. Others say you should park the tires on some material which will supposedly prevent the flat spots;

-some say to store with a full tank of gas, to prevent the air space from attracting condensation, which could contaminate your fuel with water. Others say that's not a concern and a full tank will immerse the floating fuel gauge inside the tank and damage it, making for a costly repair later on;

-some say a car cover (soft felt-like material touching the car) is a must, to prevent dust or anything else from covering or harming your paint. Others say the opposite: the cover, if it rubs the paint, could cause damage, so best not to cover it with anything. Then there are different concerns about outside storage and covers: a loose cover will move around with the wind and more readily rub and damage the paint;

-some say to change your oil/filter just before parking it so it's stored w/o contaminants, whereas others say the opposite: wait 'til the Spring and do it then, otherwise your oil will break down while parked for months and not be up-to-snuff when you go to drive it in the Spring. Still others say ANY oil/filter change related to a parked vehicle, is a waste of money.



Confused now? I know I know, there's no 100% uniform "this is the way to do it" consensus. For me: battery TENDER; over-inflate tires; oil/filter change before parking; silica sand and windows up; anything rodent-related n/a since I'm in a garage w/o any evidence of rodents - ever; never start the car until Spring; fuel stabilizer and don't worry about tank being full (mine is a heated garage w/o any real temperature changes, so condensation potential n/a); GM OEM soft cover over top of a spotlessly clean car. You decide what works for you...good luck!
 
netsinah said:
Realize that there's some dispute on whether everything above is necessary:

-most people say periodic starting is NOT a good idea. But there are those "in the know" who say it should be done, pointing out that you NEED to start it long enough to get the engine fully warmed up...otherwise it's NOT good to start it for a short time only. And then others say do NOT start it at all; just keep it parked and properly stored. Or there are those who say you need to not only warm it up once in a while, but drive it to lubricate and get everything moving;

-most people tend to use fuel stabilizer however there are those who says it's a waste of money;

-99% of the people I've talked to or read their comments, agree with Rruuff Day's suggestion: use a battery tender and NOT a trickle charger; but then you have others who say you should disconnect your battery and not bother with anything that charges the car. Then there are those who say disconnecting the battery will shut down all on-board computers and screw up your settings later in the Spring;

-everyone seems to agree that if your vehicle is exposed to mice/rodents, you should take preventive measures so they don't access your engine or interior compartments. So yes, stuff the exhaust pipes with something they can't chew through (ie. steel wool). People say NOT to use moth balls since the smell is difficult to get rid of (ie. not only a deterrent to rodents), and recommend things like dryer sheets. Some worry about rodents chewing through wiring or other materials, to gain access to your "under-hood area" and nest there; so some set baited traps for rodents and check them;

-some fussy people say park your vehicle with silica sand (stored in a porous bag/bags), which absorbs moisture. This should prevent that "musty smell" when you open your doors in the Spring after it's been parked awhile. Others disagree and say that's not necessary. Or some will park a vehicle with the windows open a crack, for air flow;

-some say to inflate your tires to their maximum, to prevent "flat spots" on the tires after a few months of being parked AND to prevent air pressure loss over time, making the tires flat or under-inflated. Others say that's not a good idea and you should take the tires off and store the vehicle on stands. Then some say storing it on stands and having no weight on the springs/shocks will be bad for them. Others say you should park the tires on some material which will supposedly prevent the flat spots;

-some say to store with a full tank of gas, to prevent the air space from attracting condensation, which could contaminate your fuel with water. Others say that's not a concern and a full tank will immerse the floating fuel gauge inside the tank and damage it, making for a costly repair later on;

-some say a car cover (soft felt-like material touching the car) is a must, to prevent dust or anything else from covering or harming your paint. Others say the opposite: the cover, if it rubs the paint, could cause damage, so best not to cover it with anything. Then there are different concerns about outside storage and covers: a loose cover will move around with the wind and more readily rub and damage the paint;

-some say to change your oil/filter just before parking it so it's stored w/o contaminants, whereas others say the opposite: wait 'til the Spring and do it then, otherwise your oil will break down while parked for months and not be up-to-snuff when you go to drive it in the Spring. Still others say ANY oil/filter change related to a parked vehicle, is a waste of money.



Confused now? I know I know, there's no 100% uniform "this is the way to do it" consensus. For me: battery TENDER; over-inflate tires; oil/filter change before parking; silica sand and windows up; anything rodent-related n/a since I'm in a garage w/o any evidence of rodents - ever; never start the car until Spring; fuel stabilizer and don't worry about tank being full (mine is a heated garage w/o any real temperature changes, so condensation potential n/a); GM OEM soft cover over top of a spotlessly clean car. You decide what works for you...good luck!
Click to expand...

If youre gonna do all this s**t you might as well just drive it once every couple of weeks when its nice out!
 
netsinah said:
Realize that there's some dispute on whether everything above is necessary:

-most people say periodic starting is NOT a good idea. But there are those "in the know" who say it should be done, pointing out that you NEED to start it long enough to get the engine fully warmed up...otherwise it's NOT good to start it for a short time only. And then others say do NOT start it at all; just keep it parked and properly stored. Or there are those who say you need to not only warm it up once in a while, but drive it to lubricate and get everything moving;

-most people tend to use fuel stabilizer however there are those who says it's a waste of money;

-99% of the people I've talked to or read their comments, agree with Rruuff Day's suggestion: use a battery tender and NOT a trickle charger; but then you have others who say you should disconnect your battery and not bother with anything that charges the car. Then there are those who say disconnecting the battery will shut down all on-board computers and screw up your settings later in the Spring;

-everyone seems to agree that if your vehicle is exposed to mice/rodents, you should take preventive measures so they don't access your engine or interior compartments. So yes, stuff the exhaust pipes with something they can't chew through (ie. steel wool). People say NOT to use moth balls since the smell is difficult to get rid of (ie. not only a deterrent to rodents), and recommend things like dryer sheets. Some worry about rodents chewing through wiring or other materials, to gain access to your "under-hood area" and nest there; so some set baited traps for rodents and check them;

-some fussy people say park your vehicle with silica sand (stored in a porous bag/bags), which absorbs moisture. This should prevent that "musty smell" when you open your doors in the Spring after it's been parked awhile. Others disagree and say that's not necessary. Or some will park a vehicle with the windows open a crack, for air flow;

-some say to inflate your tires to their maximum, to prevent "flat spots" on the tires after a few months of being parked AND to prevent air pressure loss over time, making the tires flat or under-inflated. Others say that's not a good idea and you should take the tires off and store the vehicle on stands. Then some say storing it on stands and having no weight on the springs/shocks will be bad for them. Others say you should park the tires on some material which will supposedly prevent the flat spots;

-some say to store with a full tank of gas, to prevent the air space from attracting condensation, which could contaminate your fuel with water. Others say that's not a concern and a full tank will immerse the floating fuel gauge inside the tank and damage it, making for a costly repair later on;

-some say a car cover (soft felt-like material touching the car) is a must, to prevent dust or anything else from covering or harming your paint. Others say the opposite: the cover, if it rubs the paint, could cause damage, so best not to cover it with anything. Then there are different concerns about outside storage and covers: a loose cover will move around with the wind and more readily rub and damage the paint;

-some say to change your oil/filter just before parking it so it's stored w/o contaminants, whereas others say the opposite: wait 'til the Spring and do it then, otherwise your oil will break down while parked for months and not be up-to-snuff when you go to drive it in the Spring. Still others say ANY oil/filter change related to a parked vehicle, is a waste of money.



Confused now? I know I know, there's no 100% uniform "this is the way to do it" consensus. For me: battery TENDER; over-inflate tires; oil/filter change before parking; silica sand and windows up; anything rodent-related n/a since I'm in a garage w/o any evidence of rodents - ever; never start the car until Spring; fuel stabilizer and don't worry about tank being full (mine is a heated garage w/o any real temperature changes, so condensation potential n/a); GM OEM soft cover over top of a spotlessly clean car. You decide what works for you...good luck!
Click to expand...
LOL! Thanks for all your NON opinions! ;)
 
Hi there,
I would get some kind of foam pads under your tires, Canadian Tire or princess Auto typically have those 2x2 interlocking pads., they come in packs of 4 to 6. I would put a pack of silica absorbent ( amazon 1lbs) inside the vehicle. I am not sure if C8s have this problem but on C7s you only fill the gas tank a 1/4 full for storage because of gas contaminants, " Winter storage, Gas tank should only be a Quarter tank full due to the attack on the fuel gauge metering stick. Corrosion could happen at the hinge of the stick from the gas around since the gas is not moving or sweeping over the area to clean it."
 
SharkBait said:
I am not sure if C8s have this problem but on C7s you only fill the gas tank a 1/4 full for storage because of gas contaminants, " Winter storage, Gas tank should only be a Quarter tank full due to the attack on the fuel gauge metering stick. Corrosion could happen at the hinge of the stick from the gas around since the gas is not moving or sweeping over the area to clean it."
Click to expand...
That's only a C7 issue as I understand it.
This is from the manual BTW

Vehicle Storage Tires age when stored normally mounted on a parked vehicle. Park a vehicle that will be stored for at least a month in a cool, dry, clean area away from direct sunlight to slow aging. This area should be free of grease, gasoline, or other substances that can deteriorate rubber. Parking for an extended period can cause flat spots on the tires that may result in vibrations while driving. When storing a vehicle for at least a month, remove the tires or raise the vehicle to reduce the weight from the tires.
 
carbuff said:
Today’s gasoline blends already have stabilizers or different formulations. There’s absolutely no need for a gas stabilizer, unless you are storing for two years.

And depending on what you pour in, you could be doing more damage than good.
Click to expand...
I had to replace the carb in my goKart because of the gas. I have no idea exactly what it was that gummed it all up, but it was before I started using stabilizer or premium gas without the garden in it.
 
Murray20c8 said:
DIsconnecting the battery disarms the alarm. If the car is in the garage leaving the battery connected is no different than in the summer when you drive the car. If in a facility away from your residence then, yes. I'd even take the battery home with me and keep it in your basement.
Click to expand...
I keep my cars in a heated (+17C) and secured garage that is attached to my residence so I'm not worried about the alarms in my cars
 
Zedaholic said:
I keep my cars in a heated (+17C) and secured garage that is attached to my residence so I'm not worried about the alarms in my cars
Click to expand...
It's good you aren't worried, but I always prefer the extra level of security. Every thing can be defeated, but extra levels take extra time to do it.
 
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