Realize that there's some dispute on whether everything above is necessary:

-most people say periodic starting is NOT a good idea. But there are those "in the know" who say it should be done, pointing out that you NEED to start it long enough to get the engine fully warmed up...otherwise it's NOT good to start it for a short time only. And then others say do NOT start it at all; just keep it parked and properly stored. Or there are those who say you need to not only warm it up once in a while, but drive it to lubricate and get everything moving;

-most people tend to use fuel stabilizer however there are those who says it's a waste of money;

-99% of the people I've talked to or read their comments, agree with Rruuff Day's suggestion: use a battery tender and NOT a trickle charger; but then you have others who say you should disconnect your battery and not bother with anything that charges the car. Then there are those who say disconnecting the battery will shut down all on-board computers and screw up your settings later in the Spring;

-everyone seems to agree that if your vehicle is exposed to mice/rodents, you should take preventive measures so they don't access your engine or interior compartments. So yes, stuff the exhaust pipes with something they can't chew through (ie. steel wool). People say NOT to use moth balls since the smell is difficult to get rid of (ie. not only a deterrent to rodents), and recommend things like dryer sheets. Some worry about rodents chewing through wiring or other materials, to gain access to your "under-hood area" and nest there; so some set baited traps for rodents and check them;

-some fussy people say park your vehicle with silica sand (stored in a porous bag/bags), which absorbs moisture. This should prevent that "musty smell" when you open your doors in the Spring after it's been parked awhile. Others disagree and say that's not necessary. Or some will park a vehicle with the windows open a crack, for air flow;

-some say to inflate your tires to their maximum, to prevent "flat spots" on the tires after a few months of being parked AND to prevent air pressure loss over time, making the tires flat or under-inflated. Others say that's not a good idea and you should take the tires off and store the vehicle on stands. Then some say storing it on stands and having no weight on the springs/shocks will be bad for them. Others say you should park the tires on some material which will supposedly prevent the flat spots;

-some say to store with a full tank of gas, to prevent the air space from attracting condensation, which could contaminate your fuel with water. Others say that's not a concern and a full tank will immerse the floating fuel gauge inside the tank and damage it, making for a costly repair later on;

-some say a car cover (soft felt-like material touching the car) is a must, to prevent dust or anything else from covering or harming your paint. Others say the opposite: the cover, if it rubs the paint, could cause damage, so best not to cover it with anything. Then there are different concerns about outside storage and covers: a loose cover will move around with the wind and more readily rub and damage the paint;

-some say to change your oil/filter just before parking it so it's stored w/o contaminants, whereas others say the opposite: wait 'til the Spring and do it then, otherwise your oil will break down while parked for months and not be up-to-snuff when you go to drive it in the Spring. Still others say ANY oil/filter change related to a parked vehicle, is a waste of money.



Confused now? I know I know, there's no 100% uniform "this is the way to do it" consensus. For me: battery TENDER; over-inflate tires; oil/filter change before parking; silica sand and windows up; anything rodent-related n/a since I'm in a garage w/o any evidence of rodents - ever; never start the car until Spring; fuel stabilizer and don't worry about tank being full (mine is a heated garage w/o any real temperature changes, so condensation potential n/a); GM OEM soft cover over top of a spotlessly clean car. You decide what works for you...good luck!
That was a very comprehensive summary. Well done.
 
Hi fam

Any suggestions on how to winterize my new c8 - I live in Toronto / Ontario

1) it’s in the garage
2) blocked off tail pipes with dryer sheet and foil paper
3) tank full
4) trickle charger on
5) I filled the gas tank to full. Could not get right amount of fuel stabilizer in - some people say not to put it in ??
6) what about tires cradles - are they needed
7) I have a cover

Anything I should or should I not do

Someone said it’s not a good idea to start it every other week as it builds condensation ?
What do u think ?

Well you sure received a lot of advice of things to do to 'winterize' your C8.

I have had two C7's since 2017 and my advice is to ignore all the other advice above and install Michelin Alpin PA4s on your beautiful C8 and drive it all winter. My 2019 GS vert is a blast to drive in winter. Although I do wish it had a heated steering wheel. The C8 owners manual will provide you guidance for winter driving. By driving the C8 for only 6 months, you are effectively doubling the price of the car. Man up and get those winter boots on! :) :snowplough:
 
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I have a 4x4 pickup for winter here on the prairies. Never mind the garage queen digs.
To each his own. I have a friend that likes his jeep in the winter over a car. Personally I'd never have a jeep or a truck. I much prefer the seating position and height of a car. I prefer rear wheel drive for all seasons.
 
I have a 4x4 pickup for winter here on the prairies. Never mind the garage queen digs.
There are places in our country where a 4x4 is a necessity. But the winterized Vette should be available for those beautiful winter days when doing donuts in a parking lot can create a smile that just doesn't go away.
 
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I drive by a lot of you guys(stuck)here in the winter.
Not me. I've never been stuck. Close, but not stuck. A lake effect snow storm took me by surprise after hockey in my lowered 2k Camaro with snow tires. I passed a snow plow cleaning the shoulders while ignoring places that have a lot of drifting snow. Uxbridge is not a huge place and they know where the drifting snow is. This guy would rather clean the the shoulders because it was close to the shop and quitting time. Anyway, I had to turn around and take a different route. So I have never been stuck! Hell, even when I was a kid with my Duster 340 and regular bias ply tires I never got stuck.
 
Hi fam

Any suggestions on how to winterize my new c8 - I live in Toronto / Ontario

1) it’s in the garage
2) blocked off tail pipes with dryer sheet and foil paper
3) tank full
4) trickle charger on
5) I filled the gas tank to full. Could not get right amount of fuel stabilizer in - some people say not to put it in ??
6) what about tires cradles - are they needed
7) I have a cover

Anything I should or should I not do

Someone said it’s not a good idea to start it every other week as it builds condensation ?
What do u think ?

I have been winter storing Corvettes and motorcycles since the 70s. Lots of folks have opinions based on their own experience often conflicting opinions. Over the years I have sought out expert opinions in advanced service manuals or engineering publications. From my experience I would say you have it covered. With regard to fuel tank there were some concerns with some models in the 80s about submerging the in tank fuel pump due to corrosion of parts. Experts seem to discount this theory with more modern cars. Tires - modern tires do not flat spot like the older belted tires. They do temporarily have a flat spot but it disappears with the first fast drive of 5-10 minutes. Personally I park with four pieces of heavy cardboard between my tires and my floor. Not to stop flat spotting but in order to prevent the tires from sticking to the floor and lifting the epoxy paint on my garage floor. Battery does need to be maintained due to small drain on it from all the electronics. Make sure it is a battery maintainer not a device that constantly puts a charge on the battery. The one that you can buy from GM is a good one and easily plugs into the lighter socket in the frunk on the C8. The lighter socket in the passenger compartment can not be used as it is NOT live once the ignition is turned off. All the experts agree that changing the oil PRIOR to storage is a good idea although not critical for storage of only 3 or 4 months. Does not have to be immediately prior to storage but close to the storage period is good. I try to not put more than 1000 km on between the oil change and storage. With regard to engine starting during storage most experts say to not start it unless you plan to put a load on the engine bringing it to full operating temperature. Full operating temperature does not mean the water up to temperature it means the oil up to full temperature. That usually means you have to drive the car. Good luck.
 
Driving a Vette in northern Alberta in the winter would be folly at best. I do not live in the banana belt and winter definition is vastly different regionally.

“we who are about to winterize, salute you”.
 
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I do not live in the banana belt and winter definition is vastly different regionally.
LOL! I guess you could call Vancouver the closest thing to a banana belt in Canada. I have no knowledge of winters outside of southern Ontario, so I bow to your knowledge on such things.
 
Not me. I've never been stuck. Close, but not stuck. A lake effect snow storm took me by surprise after hockey in my lowered 2k Camaro with snow tires. I passed a snow plow cleaning the shoulders while ignoring places that have a lot of drifting snow. Uxbridge is not a huge place and they know where the drifting snow is. This guy would rather clean the the shoulders because it was close to the shop and quitting time. Anyway, I had to turn around and take a different route. So I have never been stuck! Hell, even when I was a kid with my Duster 340 and regular bias ply tires I never got stuck.
Uxbridge, ON. That explains everything about yer 'winter' driving.
 
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I’m in Thunder Bay. Plenty of snow from Nov to April. I have a 4Runner for the winter. Theoretically I could drive the C8, but can’t see around the big snowbanks and corners. And all the sand and rocks thrown by all the pickup trucks here- would be like driving in a sandstorm! And that’s if they saw me
 
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To each his own. I have a friend that likes his jeep in the winter over a car. Personally I'd never have a jeep or a truck. I much prefer the seating position and height of a car. I prefer rear wheel drive for all seasons.
lol.... A car just doesn't cut it on the prairies in the winter unless you want to go back to bed for three days waiting to get plowed out. My Vette is the only car in a stable of 4. Two SUV's and my diesel 4x4. But. On that note, this is the west. We like our 4 bys and we like looking down on people when we are driving.... :rofl:
 
lol.... A car just doesn't cut it on the prairies in the winter unless you want to go back to bed for three days waiting to get plowed out. My Vette is the only car in a stable of 4. Two SUV's and my diesel 4x4. But. On that note, this is the west. We like our 4 bys and we like looking down on people when we are driving.... :rofl:
Same here. My brides vehicle is a Jeep and my daily is a 2021 GMC Denali HD 2500. Even those two have days where travel is challenging. We also have a little thing out here called gravel roads. I will find a pic of a gravel road for educational purposes for our Ontario friends. Actually just imagine a road covered in gravel…..
 
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