Yes, I am not a licensed mechanic, but I am very mechanically inclined.
Tools you should have at your disposal that are not mentioned in the video, before you even attempt this is a 15" 1/4"drive extension (which you *May* need if you need to "PRY" the whole plastic nose up to access 2 extra bolts on each side of each headlight that hold a metal bracket. The metal bracket squeezes the top 2 plastic tangs on the nose, and tightens the gap between nose and fender. Those release the top corners of the nose. Without loosening those, there is *NO" way my nose would release. This is a tricky thing to do. You may also need a 1/4" swivel joint, depending on how good you are with a ratchet.
The video conveniently FORGOT TO MENTION THIS MOST IMPORTANT PART.
The problem is, once loosened, the skin pops up, but how to you tighten them again when the skin goes back on, since now the skin is mis-aligned by being pried up to tighten bolts. The bolts could be tightened before skin goes back on, but no way will it slot back in with the bolts tight. Still have not figured that out, and hence job remains unfinished. May need to bend the metal bracket.
You need plastic wedges, like those made by 3M, to pry the panel clips apart.
You should have a long plastic trim stick, which you will use to pry the tangs sideways to release the old grill from the nose. Sideways. They bend. Some are on tight. Putting new grill back in will require a helper to steady the nose, while you force the new grill into it. Mine was unbelievably tight. You may have to bend the nose to the shape of the grill, for all the tangs to re-engage. I did.
You should tape off ALL leading edges, to prevent paint chipping on the fenders or the nose, as the 2 parts will clash against each other during the re and re.
You must make sure the Z06 grill vents pop inside the cooling ducts.
You must make sure the front air dam is inside the skin when replacing, not outside.
The park light connectors have a locking tang on them. That has to be pulled out first, before attempting to pull out the socket.
You have to release the nose first in order to easily get at these plugs. Do not pry the inner fenders unless nose is released.
The 2 plastic trees on top of the front nose shown in the video must be released this way. First you pull out the center with a screwdriver placed in the little slot on top, then the bottom part of the tree is removed by reaching underneath and squeezing the bottom of the tree while pushing it upwards to release it.
Just a few of the problems I encountered.
Lining up the skin to put it back is a real bitch. Have not been able to do that so far. So far into it for about 3 hours and counting....
Watch your torque, as the tiny bolts shown in the video can over-strip like butter.
So here you have it. Still not done. Pain in the a*s. Unless you are VERY mechanically inclined, do not attempt this. You will scratch the paint or break something, and you will hate yourself. It always looks easier on YouTube....
Before you even attempt this, get a bottle of touch up paint. If you remove paint on a leading edge, lot easier to touch up a spot BEFORE you reassemble.
