Couple ideas.... Will likely get a few more to add to or modify this list...
  1. Stuck thermostat
  2. Air in the cooling system
  3. Plugged heater core
  4. Coolant not flowing through the heater core
  5. Air not blowing through the heater core
 
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Couple ideas.... Will likely get a few more to add to or modify this list...
  1. Stuck thermostat
  2. Air in the cooling system
  3. Plugged heater core
  4. Coolant not flowing through the heater core
  5. Air not blowing through the heater core


I’d lean towards 4. If the engine warms up and is at normal temperature... very possible the diverter valve actuator is not operating... or the auto temperature sensor/auto control is boned. If you have “auto”, try it in manual.
 
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I went to Lordco Lori and bought a lysle spill proof funnel. it has an adapter for the radiator and a 45° adapter to kèep it level, put that on your after removing rad cap. I had to use an additional rubber seal the the top of the adapter as its not a tight for and you don't want coolant leaking on the ground. pets and stuff love it as its very sweet.
add coolant and or water into funnel so say...2 or 3 " are sitting in funnel. start car and let idle, as it warms (engine), your thermostat will open allowing circulation of hot fluid from block to rad. it will bubble like a bugger just keep coolant up and adding as needed. as soon as your up to temp (195-200°) shut er down and don't let it overheat or it will puke everything out. it helps having someone in he cockpit ready to kill the engine as you watch coolant levels and bubbles. remember coolant expands as it heats up. Just just dont let the level get low enough to reach cooling fins in rad. the funnel has a nice plug that will fit he funnel throat so you can pull it off after cool down and return any extra to antifreeze jug if you have one kicking around. check levels for the next few days before you hit the road as as it cycles thru the system it will more than likely lower a bit. keep topping er up in the morn. 2 days I was satisfied it wasn't looking any as i made sure coolant overflow tank is filled as per requirements on bottle. Hope this helps and try the 2x12s for ramps on passenger side,. the heater core is higher than the rad. ,air can hide there easy. you should hear no gurgles when its hot and sealed with a rad cap.
 
Hi Graham, I replied from my phone and it loves to mess with my grammar and buttons lol.
Thanks! Adding to the final few minutes before killing the engine....I notice as soon as the thermostat opens up, and the exchange of coolant is complete is when to stop idling and shut er down.
The time elapsed between a calm / thermo opening, and a boil over is a few minutes at most.

Boiling coolant makes a good deep fryin' medium for fryin' finger nuggets in the garage!!! Trust me on this one lol.
Darrell
 
On the side of the overflow coolant container on the passenger side. It has fill levels for cold level and hot levels on the side embossed into the bottle .
 
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I went to Lordco Lori and bought a lysle spill proof funnel. it has an adapter for the radiator and a 45° adapter to kèep it level, put that on your after removing rad cap. I had to use an additional rubber seal the the top of the adapter as its not a tight for and you don't want coolant leaking on the ground. pets and stuff love it as its very sweet.
add coolant and or water into funnel so say...2 or 3 " are sitting in funnel. start car and let idle, as it warms (engine), your thermostat will open allowing circulation of hot fluid from block to rad. it will bubble like a bugger just keep coolant up and adding as needed. as soon as your up to temp (195-200°) shut er down and don't let it overheat or it will puke everything out. it helps having someone in he cockpit ready to kill the engine as you watch coolant levels and bubbles. remember coolant expands as it heats up. Just just dont let the level get low enough to reach cooling fins in rad. the funnel has a nice plug that will fit he funnel throat so you can pull it off after cool down and return any extra to antifreeze jug if you have one kicking around. check levels for the next few days before you hit the road as as it cycles thru the system it will more than likely lower a bit. keep topping er up in the morn. 2 days I was satisfied it wasn't looking any as i made sure coolant overflow tank is filled as per requirements on bottle. Hope this helps and try the 2x12s for ramps on passenger side,. the heater core is higher than the rad. ,air can hide there easy. you should hear no gurgles when its hot and sealed with a rad cap.
 

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I also wanted to pass this trick ive used for years to make sure the air wont be caught at the thermostat. simple 1/8 joles do the trick! Good luck with your no heat issues MCK683!
 
Yes. It took 4 times for me. check your heater hoses at the firewall/heater core and see if they are warm....if memory serves. the bottom is the water pump and should be the hotter hose. this will indicate water flowing thru the heater core. Make sure to try raise the front of the car also. this helps push any trapped air out to the rad. have your interior heater running too on high heat, low fan speed.
 
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