- Aug 5, 2011
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LOL -- "itchy-lation in 100 degree heat" --- I'm feeling uncomfortable just readin' it......
C.
C.
I know my engine is shot.
- Thread starter Case75
- Start date
- Feb 16, 2013
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I never heard of the water trick, seen it done with ATF though.......lot of smoke.
- Aug 5, 2011
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- Feb 22, 2011
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Buy a vacuum gauge this can tell you whats going on internally.
Vacuum Gauge reading chart
Never heard of the water trick before, i would use a spray bottle.
If your motor does need major repair, this could be the perfect opportunity to turn that 350 into a 383 stroker
(assuming its the original engine)
Hopefully it is something minor
Good Luck
Vacuum Gauge reading chart
Never heard of the water trick before, i would use a spray bottle.
If your motor does need major repair, this could be the perfect opportunity to turn that 350 into a 383 stroker
(assuming its the original engine) Hopefully it is something minor
Good Luck
- Thread starter
- #25
Buy a vacuum gauge this can tell you whats going on internally.
Vacuum Gauge reading chart
Never heard of the water trick before, i would use a spray bottle.
If your motor does need major repair, this could be the perfect opportunity to turn that 350 into a 383 stroker
Hopefully it is something minor
Good Luck
I have a vacuum guage and vacuum is good...20 inches at idle and needle bearly moves. I've thought of going 383 as well. And yes, it's the original engine.
- Thread starter
- #26
Finally got some time to myself today. Did a Seafoam treatment. Not sure it did a whole lot. Got thinking about it being a timing issue. I had put the vacuum advance back to ported a few days ago with no change; this time I disconected it altogether so now have no vacuum advance. Revved the engine back up and noise is not as bad...so it has to be knocking. I've never heard an engine knock with no load. Got the timing light out and found that the initial had drifted back up to 21 degrees from the 12 degrees I had it at it April. Set the initial back to 12 degrees. Revved it up with the vacuum advance still diconected and knocking is all but gone. Checked the mechanical and I have 32 degrees all in at about 3000. Hooked the vacuum advance back up and it is knocking again. Disconect it and knocking is nearly gone. I did notice too that when I was trying to set the inital, the timing was wondering several degrees. What so you think, distributor? Timing chain? Cam? With the hold down tightened as much as possible I can wiggle the distributor a little bit. I took the car for a drive and I am still getting a bit of knock on the highway sometimes but not all the time like I was. Throttle reponse is pretty lazy now but I don't care about that. I guess the next step is to take a couple of more degrees out of the timing.
- Aug 5, 2011
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That sounds promising Greg -- It's either the timing chain or more likely the distributor -- which you can narrow down right away -- any play in the shaft?
another issue could be weak advance springs allowing too much advance too quickly- but that wouldn't explain the total advance going so high.
Is the dwell within spec?
If it's not the distributor then I'd say you're looking at a new timing chain.
That could very well explain some of the 'chatter' you're hearing too.
C.
another issue could be weak advance springs allowing too much advance too quickly- but that wouldn't explain the total advance going so high.
Is the dwell within spec?
If it's not the distributor then I'd say you're looking at a new timing chain.
That could very well explain some of the 'chatter' you're hearing too.
C.
- Nov 3, 2012
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sounds like distributor bushings are worn and giving too much advance. i'd also want to see how much deflection is on the timing chain, it shouldn't be more than 1/4". a stretched chain can make a heluva racket against the timing cover. if your engine is making 20" of vacuum and not using excessive oil those are the things i would be investigating.
- Jan 27, 2009
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My first thought was like CCO stated...a weak or maybe even broken advance spring in the distributor, next thing is distributor 'slop'...then on to timing chain issues. That's the order I would be looking.
You'll have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off and that means removing at least one steering tie-rod end to get it out. Unless someone knows a trick? I just dud all this on my '75 over the past year.
It sounds like the motor is not the issue...You'll find this yet!
we'll be here handing out free advice 24/7........
graham
You'll have to drop the oil pan to get the timing cover off and that means removing at least one steering tie-rod end to get it out. Unless someone knows a trick? I just dud all this on my '75 over the past year.
It sounds like the motor is not the issue...You'll find this yet!
we'll be here handing out free advice 24/7........
graham
- Nov 3, 2012
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how many miles are on that engine greg ?
- Thread starter
- #32
76,000 Doug.
- Aug 5, 2011
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Sounds like a good place to start Greg : bearings/bushings on the Distrib. Not the most diff. job in the world and a hell of a lot let work than you expected.
Timing chain is another matter but still not too bad considering what it may have been. Still a good idea to 'stroke' it to 383" ..... Maybe over the winter.
C.
Timing chain is another matter but still not too bad considering what it may have been. Still a good idea to 'stroke' it to 383" ..... Maybe over the winter.
C.
- Nov 3, 2012
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best choice greg, the hei's are not that pricey. get one with an adjustable vacuum can.
- Aug 5, 2011
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Good luck Greg but I don't think you'll need it -- The chances of both the distributor and the chain needing replacement are slim and none.
C.
- Jan 11, 2009
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Looking forward to hearing if this is the fix!
- Aug 5, 2011
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