I have it on mine and really like it. Nice feature to have..You will like it a lot.
You can always install one after if you buy one without HUD...Not difficult to do. Can always get Manny and the boys to install for you if you are not up to the task
Here is a write up from another forum:
Installed a HUD a few weeks ago without a hitch. Thought I would do a write-up with some TIPs, many of which I wish I would have known to speed my install. Should take no more than 2-3 hours with this "cut the a/c duct" procedure. PCMusicGuy's PDF was most valuable and I suggest you get it, especially if you make your own harness as I did.
1) Pull dash surround bezel by prying on both bottom corners (below right start button and left a/c vent) with a scratch-free tool. Once those areas pop out, you can work your fingers around, popping off the bezel. TIP: may have to lift top of dash slightly to remove and re-install this piece AND the instument cluster. Remove the dimmer, DIC, start and sensor plugs during removal. Remove the left pod dummy piece and install the new HUD switch.
2) With a 7mm nutdriver, remove the 4 cluster screws and the 1 left a/c vent retaining screw. Pull the cluster out, disconnecting the gray and black plugs.
3) Using a hacksaw that is an open blade on one end with a handle on the other, carefully cut the large duct on the right side. TIP: Don't just cut it wide enough to get the projector in - you need some room to get your hand in to tighten the right nut. You will want to cut it fairly close to the sensor that is screwed into the duct.
4) Once the duct is cut completely through, pull on it to yank it out which will break off the mounting tab on the left side. You can now remove the filler bezel on top of the dash and replace it with the HUD bezel. TIP: This is done by pushing the panel forward (toward the windshield) and pulling it up and out of the slots.
5) Fit projector into dash working it onto the 2 studs. I cut a notch in the left mounting ear so the projector can be dropped over the right stud and then swung over onto the left stud without having to lift it over the stud. Might try this if clearance is tight. To secue the back of the projector, get a J-nut or Speednut with screw and washer. A J-nut might slide over the leg of the projector but since there is a channel inside the leg you can just hold it in position while starting the screw. The rectangular speednut will not spin while tightening the screw (with a stubby screwdriver) because it is caught inside the channel of the leg. Install 2 6mm nylon locknuts with flatwashers on the studs. Hard to get to but can be done. TIP: use a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench since it is tight in there.
6) Reinstall a/c duct. I recommend aluminum HVAC tape over duct tape. TIP: first place a piece or two of tape on the top of the duct before inserting the cut-off section as it is hard to work tape around the top after installing it. Make sure tape is worked all the way around. Reinstall screw at left vent.
7) Time to wire it up. Plug in the brown HUD connector. Cut back the tape from the gray and black cluster plugs about where the 2 groups of wire meet into one. TIP: clean up the sticky wires with something like degreaser, acetone or paint thinner. You will need 6 red wire splices that either come with your harness or from Radio Shack (bag of 7 for $1.99)
8) Make your connections according to directions. I will do a HUD harness write which has how I did it. TIP: I used a continuity tester to make sure my connections were right.
9) Connect gray and black plugs and reinstall instrument cluster using the 4 screws. TIP: Make sure all plugs are sticking out where they need to be. The 2 blue connectors (one for DIC switch and one for HUD switch) should be sticking out of the upper left and right corners. Don't let the DIC plug fall down with the start button plug.
10) Reconnect all the plugs into the surround. TIP: Before installing surround by snapping back in at all spring clips, do a test of the HUD by starting the car and seeing if all functions work.