Ordered the fronts - 245/45ZR17..there was a new set already on the rear of the car when I bought it last year. Still in great condition.
What are the tire sizes you are looking for?
Warm Continental Extreme Contact DWS06 Tires
- Thread starter Black 03 Z06
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What are the tire sizes you are looking for?
Don, I am looking for 255/40/17 for the fronts (supposed to be 265's but they cannot be found) and 295/35/18's for the rear. I can find fronts but no back backs but no fronts from any maker. Interesting with the Continentals I can get rears in the US but not fronts. Here I can get fronts but no rears. Price difference is HUGE as Trump would say even before you factor in the exchange.
Thanks Don.
Thanks Don.
I tried ordering as3’s for z06 size a week ago when there was a 25x ct money offer on my app plus 10% off flyer promo. Not available. So much for the tire in ct......
Frank, When i just arrived home, 2 missed calls from CT...
Dollars to donuts they are going to tell me they cant get the AS 3+ in my size
You would think that with the trouble we are having trying to find tires we have the only one of a vehicle ever made...why is it so hard when there was 248,715 C5's produced?Don, I am looking for 255/40/17 for the fronts (supposed to be 265's but they cannot be found) and 295/35/18's for the rear. I can find fronts but no back backs but no fronts from any maker. Interesting with the Continentals I can get rears in the US but not fronts. Here I can get fronts but no rears. Price difference is HUGE as Trump would say even before you factor in the exchange.
Thanks Don.
You be sure to give us a review on those once you get a few thousand KMS on em OY. I’d be very interested in an owners thoughts as I’m leaning towards those as my next set.
those in run flat mode are really great, I have a set and they seem to corner the same as factory
better in cooler weather never at a loss for traction
love them and would buy the runflat version again and again,
best set of tires I have ever owned
Just back from the Corvette Owners School at Spring Mountain and the instructors agreed that the Michelin PS - AS3 were a better tire for average driving than the Pilot Sport Summer tire. Quieter and better grip in wet and cold weather - according to their assessment. A couple of participants on the course had swapped out the PS summers for the AS3's at time of purchase and said they were a great tire.
Problem at least for C5 and C5Z owners is you simply cannot find the Michelin AS3's in sizes to fit. I can get Michelin Pilot Super Sports if I mortgage the house but I don't want another set of "fragile" tires. Don't want to have to store the car on stands either and haul eight tires and rims into the basement.
Thanks Vanguard for the input it is appreciated. It sounds like Spring Mountain was good for you.
Thanks Vanguard for the input it is appreciated. It sounds like Spring Mountain was good for you.
Sting eh has been saying that for 18 months
good the authorities have confirmed my thoughts
Yup the AS3+ZP (or maybe nonZP) are on the top of my list to consider
as 1010tire can supply a C7 Stingray Z51 and non-Z51 (sorry not yet for GS & Z's at the time of this message)
Hmmmm ... Maybe I should just keep one vette for Summer-use and rig the other for All-Seasonal?
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Check put the tire rack site.
Actually they have the 19" fronts in stock not rears. But they are not cheapest. Both pmc tire and Wheelsco beat them in $....and have stock of 19/20's... just waiting to sell my pilot ss's!
I'm not sure if this a tongue in cheek post or not...If serious the reply is no bloody way. DO NOT take a ceramic brake car to COSTCO for tires. For multiple reasons.Their installers are not familiar with pulling/ mounting wheels on a car of that quality, machinery could be better for big stuff, technicians experience with pulling and mounting big rubber on wheels is lacking as well. Chipping of your rotors likely imminent! The nuts should be broken free on the ground. Then car lifted just enough to get wheels off the ground a smidge. Then pull wheel straight off vs them lifting the car to a working height and pulling the wheel like they do on a regular car. Bouncing things off the rotors as they go. Which is not an issue for a car with steel rotors at all but it is with carbon setups. Your carbon rotors will chip . Even better is the above removal with rotor protectors installed. However not really an issue when working a half inch off the ground but if the car is up high at working height it is a necessity. Depending on the size of rubber, run flat or regular tire, wheels you have, mounting can be an issue with wheel damage. Not all tire machines are capable of doing big wheels and rubber well. The person operating the equipment also needs to be more knowledgeable to mount bigger tire and wheel set ups.When I have time I am going to start a thread on proper mounting techniques and what machinery is required as I have some knowledge in this area. This thought was spurred on by all the damaged, tires and wheels I've seen lately. This post underscored the need for some good information to be posted for our members. I will possibly even shoot some videos for the site to show certain aspects members may not have seen or are aware of. I have seen three sets of wheels damaged/scrapped etc by improper installation and poor quality tire machines in the last month alone. In one case I was told how the shop that was removing a set of tires was " great and does all kinds of serious cars"....the before and after was scraped wheels. I wish I had of shot a video of some used big rubber run flats being pulled recently. It showed what can happen when big low profile run flats are pulled and what is often needed to save the sidewall and bead from damage.
Note* Tires on the older cars with more sidewall that are non run flats are not an issue when it comes to installation. The killer is the low profile sidewall rubber. Especially the run flats as the sidewalls are stiff as hell. The big low profile non runflats are a bit better to mount but also are harder to do than rubber with more sidewall.
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I’m a Supply & Install shopper with the two words being just that - two words. So I look for a cheap-a$$ supply and then a get-what-you-pay-for install. Even though I have found best price and bought at Costco, the install is somewhere else - even for my daily driver. The Corvette will be done where Corvettes are Serviced ... why chance it even if just doing DIY take-offs as the difference is likely not more than $10-$15 per wheel for a once-in-a-while expense. I look forward to your separate “all about tire mount and more” Thread @Movie Muscle 
I’m actually doing my daily driver winter swaps right now ....
... so hoping for the one-in-a-million dumb&dumber shot that your instructions might include the labour 
I’m actually doing my daily driver winter swaps right now ....
... so hoping for the one-in-a-million dumb&dumber shot that your instructions might include the labour
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And a road froce balance is worth it weight in gold. It can really make a big difference especially on a high end car. Even if you don't routinely take it to warp factor 5.It's very noticeable at even 120 kph. I have personally done both and let me tell you, what a difference. Don't let the shops " we have a really good balancer" reply fool you. There is no substitute for a proper road force balance done by a tech who has good equipment and knows what he is doing. A proper job takes some time and effort. Some techs will not put in the time to do it right. I have many friends with shops. I did a barter deal with one friend. He did work on my Expedition and I did the work he needed on his boat. He had the new " great tire balancer" that he paid big bucks for blahh blahh blahh on he went lol. It was not a road force balancer but his speech convinced me.... yeah. Well off they came for a road force balance after a few hundred K's on my other friends Hunter Road Force machine. No comparison. I will never go for a regular balance again.
I'll need some serious time to put together an all encompassing tire thread. Much more to it than most people think. I thought I knew quite a lot a few years ago but there was soooo much I did not know... and am still learning. Might do it in pieces , road force balancing video, tire removal and mount, proper techniques that techs should use etc.
I'll need some serious time to put together an all encompassing tire thread. Much more to it than most people think. I thought I knew quite a lot a few years ago but there was soooo much I did not know... and am still learning. Might do it in pieces , road force balancing video, tire removal and mount, proper techniques that techs should use etc.
"Car manufacturers have been using road force wheel balancers for decades because even the best tires are not perfect. It’s done at the factory on every tire/wheel assembly to create that ever so important new car ride."
"We have changed from a market dominated by tall tires where the distance from the wheel to the tread was fairly large and relatively flexible. Today, most tires have a much lower profile. The sidewall is stiffer and the distance from the rim to the top of the tread is shorter, often much shorter. This means that minor imperfections will be amplified and more vibration transmitted into the car."
"Bottom line, road force balancing is likely not for every customer. While it is overkill for many customers, it is also a very useful tool for extreme low profile tires or to resolve persistent vibration problems. For customers who want the “best,” it is a legitimate premium service, and you should charge as such."
I will assume that we all want the best for our Vettes. Plus shimmies at 150K are not pleasant.
That we do.
Correct, tires are not perfectly round and wheels themselves have highs and lows in them. No matter how good the quality of the tire or wheel. However the better brands are FAR better than lower quality products. Part of road force balancing is optimally matching these imperfections of highs and lows in the tire and wheel up along with stiff spots in tires etc. The comment on today's tires profiles is very correct. Two of the worse shimmy/vibration/shakes I found due to tires was with 55 series sidewall Tires. A set of 275 55 20 Perellis.The barter deal balance job, which was cured by going to a road force balance. I also had a set of Falcons in 275 55 20's. The vibration problem in this case was so bad that Discount Tire Paid for a road force balance test at my Ford dealer to verify the road force numbers. In the end, even with the best possible match up, the tire failed to meet Discounts specs and was replaced free of charge.It is funny how the source says it's "not for every customer". This is a case of them not knowing what a car with good balance feels like. Many will people think/right it off " well it's a older car with XXX kms" etc expecting it to feel bad to a point. I have the privilege to have access to play at friends shops and to see first hand what is really going on. it can be quite surprising to see. I wish I had videoed some of these occurrences so I could show the exact numbers etc. I know I had a set of Michelin PSS come in at a crazy good 2lbs final balance force and the other at 4lbs on a pair of 345/35/ZR19's. Translation....zero vibration at 257kph. Felt the same as doing 100kph on a perfectly new road!
Correct, tires are not perfectly round and wheels themselves have highs and lows in them. No matter how good the quality of the tire or wheel. However the better brands are FAR better than lower quality products. Part of road force balancing is optimally matching these imperfections of highs and lows in the tire and wheel up along with stiff spots in tires etc. The comment on today's tires profiles is very correct. Two of the worse shimmy/vibration/shakes I found due to tires was with 55 series sidewall Tires. A set of 275 55 20 Perellis.The barter deal balance job, which was cured by going to a road force balance. I also had a set of Falcons in 275 55 20's. The vibration problem in this case was so bad that Discount Tire Paid for a road force balance test at my Ford dealer to verify the road force numbers. In the end, even with the best possible match up, the tire failed to meet Discounts specs and was replaced free of charge.It is funny how the source says it's "not for every customer". This is a case of them not knowing what a car with good balance feels like. Many will people think/right it off " well it's a older car with XXX kms" etc expecting it to feel bad to a point. I have the privilege to have access to play at friends shops and to see first hand what is really going on. it can be quite surprising to see. I wish I had videoed some of these occurrences so I could show the exact numbers etc. I know I had a set of Michelin PSS come in at a crazy good 2lbs final balance force and the other at 4lbs on a pair of 345/35/ZR19's. Translation....zero vibration at 257kph. Felt the same as doing 100kph on a perfectly new road!
That’s why I let my dealer match the best price I can find on the tires and they do the installs on my Z07 car. So far no issues and the balance feels perfect to me.
For a few extra bucks on the install it’s the best insurance I could reason out against damages to the rotors or wheels.
For a few extra bucks on the install it’s the best insurance I could reason out against damages to the rotors or wheels.
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