Featured C7 SPLASH GUARDS DIY

[YFCvii]

THIS WAS THE EASIEST SET OF SPLASH GUARDS / MUD FLAPS THAT I HAVE INSTALLED SO FAR !!!
DID NOT HAVE TO LIFT THE VEHICLE NOR REMOVE A WHEEL ... AND AN AWESOME MONEY SAVER.

So you gotta be just a little handy with tools to do this. You will need a 7mm socket and a cleaning cloth. The Splash Guard parts are listed on many on-line dealership accessory lists with an installed price of very close to $200 each for the front set and the back set. The parts purchase price from the Parts Counter for about $90 each pair. So a DIY install will save you 50%
I would recommend that you have the correct tool for this Job (a 7mm socket/wrench). Some might think to use pliers or an adjustable wrench to remove 1 bolt for each splash guard but I would not recommend it ... besides, I am always one to be front-of-the-line for a DIY project that endorses my having to add a new tool to my Tool Box. Having the right tools always makes it look like you know what you are doing (when the "boss" walks by - if you know what I mean)
I completed my Splash Guard Mod in about an hour; not including my picture taking and a break in-between to sit in a lawn chair and sip a pop while admiring the job that was 1/2 completed.
I am posting the instruction page and a few pictures of the install.

I would recommend to begin with the
FRONT SPLASH GUARDS
First I would recommend to wash the wheels and wheel well liners.
For the Front set, you will find one bolt on the underside to remove (photo below).
You will know which bolt to remove because you will be it fastening a tab of the factory wheel well cover.
Then you can use your fingers to grab the factory cover and pop it out (pulling toward the tire)
Be careful not to let the existing guard twist so that the retainer clips are able to rub (or scratch) your painted body side.
Once the bolt is removed the factory cover, wipe the area clean of debris that might remain behind.

To install the Front Splash Guard you will find that there is a tab that fits into a slot in the wheel well liner (see photo below). Make sure that you get the tab is in place before you start to clip the splash guard in. Missing this part of having the tab in the slot might result in this project becoming "Splash (mud) Flaps"! Be careful not to let the metal clips rub and scratch your painted surfaces. Once you insert the tab into the wheel well liner slot, pop the top retainer into its place. Then you can pop the retainers in place from top to the bottom. Then reinstall the bolt than you previously removed. You have now completed one splash guard installation. Repeat for the opposite front splash guard.

Now that you have taken a break to admire your front installations, it is time for the
REAR SPLASH GUARDS
Looking at the underside, you will likely find that there are 3 bolts. You will also notice that the tab that the bolt secures is not visible. I am hoping the photo below will help knowing that the bolt to remove is the one furthest from the body side (see photo). With the bolt removed, you can know pop of the factory cover with your fingers. You will notice that there is a slot where the bottom tab fit in and this is also where the bottom tab of your splash guard goes as well.

[/ATTACH]

Now with the existing rear wheel well cover removed you can pop in your new Rear Splash Guard starting at the top clip and working your way down. Making sure that you do not allow the metal clips to rub/scratch your painted surfaces. Making sure the bottom tab is put into the slot (arrow in above photo). Then replace the bolt that you removed. Repeat for the opposite side Rear Wheel.

I know many readers are handy and find this installation a no-brainer. A few would say this is so easy (because it actually is) but until you have done it, to others, "saying" and "doing" are two different things.
I am one that always pre-plans my approach to DIY. It's like making an awesome Homemade Chinese Dinner
"it's all in the preparation - as the cooking part just flows through" - yum ... I am hungry now!

Last but not least. My "boss" sometimes asks at one point during some of my DIY projects,
"Have you read the instructions"?
... so here they are ...

I am normally proud of my instruction pages that never have a dirt or grease mark on it.
All the ones that I do get dirt or grease on, is a reminder that I was an absolute "fumble fart" on that project.
This project has a clean instruction page (above)

Hoping you all enjoyed this ...
let me know if you find something I should mention on this so that anyone taking on this project will have a lot of confidence knowing what they are taking on ...​

 

[rockitman]

I have them on my C7 as well. I also installed them on my C6 when I had it.
Not sure why GM would not have them on from the factory as they cover well and are not intrusive.

 

[Rruuff Day]

Run flats are off and Michelins (summer) Pilot super sport ZP tires are on. Not sure if its a good idea to be driving.... thoughts based on your experience? I have never encountered an issue with any of my prior cars ( 911 - XK) with temp concern associated with tires.

Just to be clear Paul, the Pilot Super Sport tire is considerably better than the Cup 2 for both cold and wet weather driving. If you are somewhat cautious at the cooler temps, and barring a snowstorm, you won't have a problem. But I would clarify that if your Pilot super sports are actually a ZP tire, they are also a run flat model. (ZP = Zero Pressure).
But not to worry. Your change to the PSS from the CUP2 was the real key to an improvement. Here is an excerpt from Thought.Co

The PSS ZPs belong to the summer-only tire category: their best performance is on dry pavement, with treadwear designs and siping to help shed water for better grip and increased resistance to hydroplaning in the wet. This class of tire offers the "highest level of street performance," says Sean Phillips, the tire expert for About.com. Summer UHP tires "trade off wet grip capabilities and comfortable ride qualities to deliver the maximum dry grip and performance available. While these are not specifically track tires, they are best used in situations where competition-level performance is needed.

 

[rockitman]

SN-III.... yes, I see some xPel in the near future. I plan on getting some wrap on the hood as in the attached pic so may as well get the bottom done for rock chips.

That car is truly a stunning and gorgeous Grand Sport!!!!

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

Paul ask for the “Highway package” and add on the side skirts and back quarters. This gives you coverage on the entire front halfway up the hood and down to the splitter. (I had my splitter done too)
It also does the mirrors and a few other spots. Basically you can put this stuff anywhere on the car. I’ve got it along the door edges etc too.

There are plenty of guys who do the entire car and it looks great.
Some Xpel threads on here too with lots of pics for you to see the vulnerable spots on Corvettes.
The dealerships will charge a lot more to install it than a detailing shop. Lots of opinions on the best shops too. I’m sure there are good ones in your neck of the woods.

Bottom line... bits of the car or whole car.. get it ASAP before you mark up your paint.

Cheers

D

I'll have a good chat with the shop that has wrapped a couple of my past cars. He does good work and is reasonable. Thanks ddgermann.....

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

Just to be clear Paul, the Pilot Super Sport tire is considerably better than the Cup 2 for both cold and wet weather driving. If you are somewhat cautious at the cooler temps, and barring a snowstorm, you won't have a problem. But I would clarify that if your Pilot super sports are actually a ZP tire, they are also a run flat model. (ZP = Zero Pressure).
But not to worry. Your change to the PSS from the CUP2 was the real key to an improvement. Here is an excerpt from Thought.Co

The PSS ZPs belong to the summer-only tire category: their best performance is on dry pavement, with treadwear designs and siping to help shed water for better grip and increased resistance to hydroplaning in the wet. This class of tire offers the "highest level of street performance," says Sean Phillips, the tire expert for About.com. Summer UHP tires "trade off wet grip capabilities and comfortable ride qualities to deliver the maximum dry grip and performance available. While these are not specifically track tires, they are best used in situations where competition-level performance is needed.

Rruuff Day, yes they are the ZP. Barring heavy rain I will plan on joining the cruise.... assuming the exotics decide to go : )

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

while you are doing DIY modifications, don't forget this one the parts are in your delivery package pouch ...
Further discussion is in another thread ... Mobil 1

View attachment 13807 View attachment 13808 View attachment 13809

Stuck it on!

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

That car is truly a stunning and gorgeous Grand Sport!!!!

Thanks rockitman. The car in the pic is the same as my G.S except my rotors are silver as opposed to the red (which I prefer) but I'm leaving them as they are. I think the black stripe on top of the cowl complements the color of the car very well.

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

Just to be clear Paul, the Pilot Super Sport tire is considerably better than the Cup 2 for both cold and wet weather driving. If you are somewhat cautious at the cooler temps, and barring a snowstorm, you won't have a problem. But I would clarify that if your Pilot super sports are actually a ZP tire, they are also a run flat model. (ZP = Zero Pressure).
But not to worry. Your change to the PSS from the CUP2 was the real key to an improvement. Here is an excerpt from Thought.Co

The PSS ZPs belong to the summer-only tire category: their best performance is on dry pavement, with treadwear designs and siping to help shed water for better grip and increased resistance to hydroplaning in the wet. This class of tire offers the "highest level of street performance," says Sean Phillips, the tire expert for About.com. Summer UHP tires "trade off wet grip capabilities and comfortable ride qualities to deliver the maximum dry grip and performance available. While these are not specifically track tires, they are best used in situations where competition-level performance is needed.

Thanks for taking the time to look up and post the excerpt Rruuff Day!

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

So, for any who may be interested, I'll provide a little summary as to my findings on my new Pilot SS ZP handling. Today I met up for a short little romp with some friends - 5 ferraris ( 1 308 - 2 360's and 2 430's) and 1 Lambo ( that V12 sounds sooo nice) Murcielago - When I left, I was a bit concerned with the handling of my new ZP's as the temperature was only 3 - 3.5 degrees and the roads wet due to heavy fog overnight and 'medium' fog still hanging around in the morn . For the first 6 kms or so I drove a bit cautious but felt quite comfortable with the handling and grip the tires were providing me. Tires obviously not fully warmed up after the initial 6 kms so as I entered the hwy I kept the car to 85km/hr for abt 5km then had to turn off onto city streets again. Outside temp at this time was 3.5 - 4C. Tires felt very good albeit the streets were still damp. What I did notice once I arrived at the meeting point, (total drive aprx 22kms at this point) while makingg short radius turns in the mall parking lot, that the front tires still demonstrated that hop hop while turning (temp abt 4C at this time). We had some coffee then I did abt a 30km drive with the group then had to depart as I had stuff to do. On the way home temp was now in the 6 - 7C range and tires warm..... the grip was pretty darn good.... did not push the car at all, but it certainly felt good and in control behind the wheel. Soooo I would say that 'cold weather' driving is OK with the SS ZP's. I would probably prefer to go out in 5C and higher as opposed to 3 - 3.5C, but, if an emergency were to arise and u had to take the Vette out at 3C and a somewhat wet pavement (and u dont push it) you will be OK. Im no tire expert, this is just my thoughts on my replacement tires which I had only put 7 kms on them before today at 8C temp. So, my thoughts are that the tires performed well in the cold..... Ill put the stock 'slicks' back on in the summer and se how sticky they are..... with the coming and going of today I now have 182 kms on the car. : )

 

[ddgermann]

So, for any who may be interested, I'll provide a little summary as to my findings on my new Pilot SS ZP handling. Today I met up for a short little romp with some friends - 5 ferraris ( 1 308 - 2 360's and 2 430's) and 1 Lambo ( that V12 sounds sooo nice) Murcielago - When I left, I was a bit concerned with the handling of my new ZP's as the temperature was only 3 - 3.5 degrees and the roads wet due to heavy fog overnight and 'medium' fog still hanging around in the morn . For the first 6 kms or so I drove a bit cautious but felt quite comfortable with the handling and grip the tires were providing me. Tires obviously not fully warmed up after the initial 6 kms so as I entered the hwy I kept the car to 85km/hr for abt 5km then had to turn off onto city streets again. Outside temp at this time was 3.5 - 4C. Tires felt very good albeit the streets were still damp. What I did notice once I arrived at the meeting point, (total drive aprx 22kms at this point) while makingg short radius turns in the mall parking lot, that the front tires still demonstrated that hop hop while turning (temp abt 4C at this time). We had some coffee then I did abt a 30km drive with the group then had to depart as I had stuff to do. On the way home temp was now in the 6 - 7C range and tires warm..... the grip was pretty darn good.... did not push the car at all, but it certainly felt good and in control behind the wheel. Soooo I would say that 'cold weather' driving is OK with the SS ZP's. I would probably prefer to go out in 5C and higher as opposed to 3 - 3.5C, but, if an emergency were to arise and u had to take the Vette out at 3C and a somewhat wet pavement (and u dont push it) you will be OK. Im no tire expert, this is just my thoughts on my replacement tires which I had only put 7 kms on them before today at 8C temp. So, my thoughts are that the tires performed well in the cold..... Ill put the stock 'slicks' back on in the summer and se how sticky they are..... with the coming and going of today I now have 182 kms on the car. : )

Good evaluation Paul and pretty much what I expected to hear. Also a smart approach to how you managed the situation.

Just remember the SC2s you are putting back on for the summer are reportedly very sketchy on roads where water may pool in the heavy traffic parts of the roads. They hydroplane very quickly. Wet is not necessarily bad but heavy rain or pooling water is something to be mindful of. Same precautions for any tire but just amplified for the SC2s.
On the warm dry roads.... these tires are awesome so have fun.

Lol.... you’re mileing out your car in January. 182 km already. Car has lost all its trade value now. Hahahaha. Kidding of course.
Mostly I’m green with envy as January tours are not even close to an option for me.

I’m sitting at 1600 Km which is going to go way up after MITM.

Thanks for the update and glad you had some fun Paul.

Cheers

Derek

 

[Rruuff Day]

What I did notice once I arrived at the meeting point, (total drive aprx 22kms at this point) while makingg short radius turns in the mall parking lot, that the front tires still demonstrated that hop hop while turning (temp abt 4C at this time)

Hey Paul. I couldn't help but speak up here regarding your "hop hop" as it is a common occurrence (especially with the C6 and C7) and we have lots of new members coming on board that may be interested...

Temperature will only make very marginal differences in the wheel hop you refer to as what you are experiencing is explained in the Ackerman Steering geometry Principle.The quick and dirty explanation (at least I hope it will be) is:

The Corvette Stingray does not have perfect Ackerman (This is not a flaw. This is a happy medium for a combination track and street car. Perfect Ackerman would not handle as well on the track and about the only alternative to have perfect Ackerman and a vehicle that handles well on the track would be to have another differential installed between the front wheels.

In my feeble attempt at explanation, the front of the car and thus the front tires from one side of the car to the other both turn around the same radius point. During a turn each have a different length turning radius and angle; a shorter radius and tighter curve for the inside tire and a longer radius and flatter curve for the outside tire. This means the tire on the outside of the turn is travelling a longer arc distance than the inside tire. This results in the tires fighting with each other in their attempt to equalize themselves, and in a very sharp turn angle, this results in hop hop... crow hop...tire scrub..tire slip. there are lots of names for it. The wider stance, the lower profile tires, the sharpness of the steering angle, the camber and caster of the wheels, the width of the tires, the stickiness of the tires and the temperature all have some effect on the magnitude of slip which equates to how much you can actually feel the slip, but the tire fight is always there when the wheels are turned . It happens both in reverse and forward but we seem to turn the steering sharper much more often in reverse than when we are going forward. Except in parking lots... lol

And with that I will retire back into nerd-dom.... lol.... If anyone wants to chime in here and add to this, or laugh at my anal-ity, feel free...

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

Good evaluation Paul and pretty much what I expected to hear. Also a smart approach to how you managed the situation.

Just remember the SC2s you are putting back on for the summer are reportedly very sketchy on roads where water may pool in the heavy traffic parts of the roads. They hydroplane very quickly. Wet is not necessarily bad but heavy rain or pooling water is something to be mindful of. Same precautions for any tire but just amplified for the SC2s.
On the warm dry roads.... these tires are awesome so have fun.

Lol.... you’re mileing out your car in January. 182 km already. Car has lost all its trade value now. Hahahaha. Kidding of course.
Mostly I’m green with envy as January tours are not even close to an option for me.

I’m sitting at 1600 Km which is going to go way up after MITM.

Thanks for the update and glad you had some fun Paul.

Cheers

Derek

Thanks for the response Derek. The salesperson did inform me of the SC2s shortfalls, (mainly cold temps and wet surfaces) as I was driving the car off the lot. Hence my purchase of the SSZP's. Its something I was not counting on doing but did not really feel I wanted to keep the SC2's on there in case driving opportunities came up through the Jan-March era. I should be able to put the SC2's back on around May and see what they are like. I will probably wind up selling them as I dont plan to track the car, albeit I may take it to Mission Raceway for a couple of runs down the 1/4 mile before I do that...... just for s_ its and giggles! Its been a while since I did that : )

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

Hey Paul. I couldn't help but speak up here regarding your "hop hop" as it is a common occurrence (especially with the C6 and C7) and we have lots of new members coming on board that may be interested...

Temperature will only make very marginal differences in the wheel hop you refer to as what you are experiencing is explained in the Ackerman Steering geometry Principle.The quick and dirty explanation (at least I hope it will be) is:

The Corvette Stingray does not have perfect Ackerman (This is not a flaw. This is a happy medium for a combination track and street car. Perfect Ackerman would not handle as well on the track and about the only alternative to have perfect Ackerman and a vehicle that handles well on the track would be to have another differential installed between the front wheels.

In my feeble attempt at explanation, the front of the car and thus the front tires from one side of the car to the other both turn around the same radius point. During a turn each have a different length turning radius and angle; a shorter radius and tighter curve for the inside tire and a longer radius and flatter curve for the outside tire. This means the tire on the outside of the turn is travelling a longer arc distance than the inside tire. This results in the tires fighting with each other in their attempt to equalize themselves, and in a very sharp turn angle, this results in hop hop... crow hop...tire scrub..tire slip. there are lots of names for it. The wider stance, the lower profile tires, the sharpness of the steering angle, the camber and caster of the wheels, the width of the tires, the stickiness of the tires and the temperature all have some effect on the magnitude of slip which equates to how much you can actually feel the slip, but the tire fight is always there when the wheels are turned . It happens both in reverse and forward but we seem to turn the steering sharper much more often in reverse than when we are going forward. Except in parking lots... lol

And with that I will retire back into nerd-dom.... lol.... If anyone wants to chime in here and add to this, or laugh at my anal-ity, feel free...

Thanks for the response Rruuff Day. This is the first I have ever heard of the Ackerman Steering principle! I thought the hop hop was mainly attributed to the tires the C7 came with coupled with their 'allergic reaction' to cold weather...LOL Thanks for the schooling Please do retire back into your nerd room...... and then pop back out to provide us (me) with more useful tid-bits

 

[Rruuff Day]

Thanks for the response Rruuff Day. This is the first I have ever heard of the Ackerman Steering principle! I thought the hop hop was mainly attributed to the tires the C7 came with coupled with their 'allergic reaction' to cold weather...LOL Thanks for the schooling Please do retire back into your nerd room...... and then pop back out to provide us (me) with more useful tid-bits

LOL... I've been retired for eight months but the engineer in me won't give it up..... yet.... .

 

[YFCvii]

Hey Paul. I couldn't help but speak up here regarding your "hop hop" as it is a common occurrence (especially with the C6 and C7) and we have lots of new members coming on board that may be interested...

Temperature will only make very marginal differences in the wheel hop you refer to as what you are experiencing is explained in the Ackerman Steering geometry Principle.The quick and dirty explanation (at least I hope it will be) is:

The Corvette Stingray does not have perfect Ackerman (This is not a flaw. This is a happy medium for a combination track and street car. Perfect Ackerman would not handle as well on the track and about the only alternative to have perfect Ackerman and a vehicle that handles well on the track would be to have another differential installed between the front wheels.

In my feeble attempt at explanation, the front of the car and thus the front tires from one side of the car to the other both turn around the same radius point. During a turn each have a different length turning radius and angle; a shorter radius and tighter curve for the inside tire and a longer radius and flatter curve for the outside tire. This means the tire on the outside of the turn is travelling a longer arc distance than the inside tire. This results in the tires fighting with each other in their attempt to equalize themselves, and in a very sharp turn angle, this results in hop hop... crow hop...tire scrub..tire slip. there are lots of names for it. The wider stance, the lower profile tires, the sharpness of the steering angle, the camber and caster of the wheels, the width of the tires, the stickiness of the tires and the temperature all have some effect on the magnitude of slip which equates to how much you can actually feel the slip, but the tire fight is always there when the wheels are turned . It happens both in reverse and forward but we seem to turn the steering sharper much more often in reverse than when we are going forward. Except in parking lots... lol

And with that I will retire back into nerd-dom.... lol.... If anyone wants to chime in here and add to this, or laugh at my anal-ity, feel free...

Thanks Eric ... whether applicable or not, I'm gonna try and remember this ...
"... I beg your understanding Officer , I was only trying to minimize ... the yAbba-dabba-dabba-dabba ..."

... I can say that even the C7 Rays do it and thx for 'splaining it...

 

[ddgermann]

Thanks for the response Rruuff Day. This is the first I have ever heard of the Ackerman Steering principle! I thought the hop hop was mainly attributed to the tires the C7 came with coupled with their 'allergic reaction' to cold weather...LOL Thanks for the schooling Please do retire back into your nerd room...... and then pop back out to provide us (me) with more useful tid-bits

I did exactly the same thing with the tires when I bought my new Z last summer Paul. My SC2s are sitting warm and dry waiting to be installed.

Eric’s explanation of the tire “hop” is bang on. There is many threads on this as many new owners have the same moment of “oh no!! What the he** is that?!”
My C6 Z and both C7 Zs did and do exactly the same thing.
Many guys change the alignment to reduce or remove this as tire wear is accelerated. There is some scary pictures on these threads. Plenty of posts on handling with the alignment adjusted and diagrams of the geometry.

Enjoy the reading. Should be easy to search for but likely by the time I post this one of the guys will have a link up for you.

Derek.

 

[nascar03]

Hi Paul..
My C5 has the wheel ‘hop’ as well... sure scary the first couple of times it happens..

When you put the SC2s on in the Spring you should bring the car to the Autocross facility in Pitt Meadows for a few runs.
You will really get to know your car.

Graham

 

[ddgermann]

Hi Paul..
My C5 has the wheel ‘hop’ as well... sure scary the first couple of times it happens..

When you put the SC2s on in the Spring you should bring the car to the Autocross facility in Pitt Meadows for a few runs.
You will really get to know your car.

Graham

Who’s going to tell him about the brake “pop”?

 

[Rruuff Day]

I did exactly the same thing with the tires when I bought my new Z last summer Paul. My SC2s are sitting warm and dry waiting to be installed.

Eric’s explanation of the tire “hop” is bang on. There is many threads on this as many new owners have the same moment of “oh no!! What the he** is that?!”
My C6 Z and both C7 Zs did and do exactly the same thing.
Many guys change the alignment to reduce or remove this as tire wear is accelerated. There is some scary pictures on these threads. Plenty of posts on handling with the alignment adjusted and diagrams of the geometry.

Enjoy the reading. Should be easy to search for but likely by the time I post this one of the guys will have a link up for you.

Derek.

I had more positive camber adjusted on my front wheels by my dealer last year. It's sitting at right about -0.3 now instead of the close to -3.0 it was before. I have no plans to track my car and didn't want a repeat of my C6 at 30,000 k scuffing the inside edge of the front tires to the cords while the rest of the tire still had 6/32 left on them.... I see no difference at all in handling and I have been know to corner fairly aggressively at times.... Re-alignment wasn't necessary. At least it wasn't with mine. (And there was no charge). I will tell you that it didn't cure the tire hop but that wasn't my reason for doing it either...

 

[Paul C7 to C8]

Hi Paul..
My C5 has the wheel ‘hop’ as well... sure scary the first couple of times it happens..

When you put the SC2s on in the Spring you should bring the car to the Autocross facility in Pitt Meadows for a few runs.
You will really get to know your car.

Graham

Hey Graham, I was not aware of a facility in Pt. Meadows. I think there still is a place out in Mission by the drag strip that does track and autocross. I w as going to look into that to do some 'beginners' track time with the car to get a feel for it.