Featured 1959 Beauty
- Thread starter 59sapphire
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After seeing two different cars in original paint chip I would have to go with frost blue. However I don't think it was painted with proper to code paint. I will Investigate
Sweet looking ride ... don't see many of those on the road anymore but a friend of mine has this '59 that he takes out on most nice days. Good luck with you plans.
2 weeks ago I was at lunch with about 12 other gearheads at a local sports bar. We were seated at a long table (our usual) table. Very close by was a table of about 12 women. About 30 minutes into our lunch, one of the women got up and came over to our table. I was seated at the end of the table, so she came over to me and bent down and said "the women at the table I'm at think you guys are checking us out!" Before any of us could say anything she said " I told them to look at whats above our table ... a TV with Mecum's Auction on ... they're not looking at us they're looking at the TV". We all laughed and then she said you all must be car guys so what do you have. At my end it we had the '59 a '66 and my '67 that's in the body shop. She pulled out her phone and showed us a pic of her '78 Vette. We had a good laugh but the biggest hit with the rest of the women was the '59 Vette!
Any body shop should be able to help you out but a GM body shop should definitely be able to help.
These paint codes are from the day. 1959 Corvette Frost Blue, Dupont 2925-L, R-M A-1150, Ditzler DDL12018.
These are all lacquer. It is never safe to assume but it is probable that you do not intent to repaint your car with acrylic lacquer. These paint codes will give you a place to start your search for crossovers.Frost Blue is one of 3 metallic '59 Corvette colours. Besides getting the shade right, getting the appropriate metallic size can be a challenge. Several test shots may be necessary which can be costly. Much depends on your goal. Do you have any original paint hiding in the recesses of the car?
There are extremely few everyday body shops in Ontario I would expect and trust to supply accurate 1959 paint data/guidance. Even fewer GM body shops in this day and age.
I can't stress enough how important it is for you to know what your paint expectations are and exactly what you want to achieve.
These are all lacquer. It is never safe to assume but it is probable that you do not intent to repaint your car with acrylic lacquer. These paint codes will give you a place to start your search for crossovers.Frost Blue is one of 3 metallic '59 Corvette colours. Besides getting the shade right, getting the appropriate metallic size can be a challenge. Several test shots may be necessary which can be costly. Much depends on your goal. Do you have any original paint hiding in the recesses of the car?
There are extremely few everyday body shops in Ontario I would expect and trust to supply accurate 1959 paint data/guidance. Even fewer GM body shops in this day and age.
I can't stress enough how important it is for you to know what your paint expectations are and exactly what you want to achieve.
Although solid axle cars did not have a trim tag they were marked for production line purposes with regard to exterior colour. I have attached a couple of pictures of a Silver Blue '58 as an example of what to expect to find and where. They used a lumber/grease crayon which was often but not always green. As the paint coverage was usually thin in this area the word will often show through over time. When it does not come through gently scraping the area with a coin like a quarter which will expose it. On '58 to 1960s it is found on the right side of the trunk forward bulk head separating the trunk from the gas tank well. It is still wise to confirm the colour buy checking for original paint behind door trim panels, kick panels, under the dash, seats, carpets, stainless trim like the glove compartment etc. They did not use the showroom names of the colours. Just basic descriptions like black red etc. With the exception of white for which you will find the word ivory. The reason is unknown.
In an earlier post you mention a very short list of parts not original to the car. Not to rain on your parade but the photo of the engine raises questions. The tachometer if original to the car indicates the car was originally equiped with the base 230 HP 283. The carb in the picture looks like an old Quadrajet. Your car came with a Carter WCFB #2818S which had an external fuel filter. Not the internal filter shown in the photo.
The valve covers would have been the plain stamped steel that look like the passenger car valve covers but actually differ. It is quite common to see base engine cars with the sexier aluminium Corvette scrip value covers. This is where it appears you likely have an originality problem. You will see a a casting flaw running through the letter O. The mold was so worn that in the spring of 1966 it broke. Rather than spend the money to replace the mold with a new one. Chevy ok-ed a repair and the subsequent flaw. They are typical on late '66s and all '67s. These flawed covers were serviced for many years there after. Chevy dealers sold many through their parts departments. Why do I tell you this?
Small block Chevy engines had heads with valve cover staggered attachment bolt pattern from 1955 thru 1958 into early '59. The attaching machine screws on the intake side are not in line with the outboard attaching machine screws. They are closer together than the outside bolts. The valve covers on your engine are not of the staggered hole attachment variety. Which begs the question is this an early or late car? For that I would need to know the VIN.
While you are there I suggest you check the block casting number. It is a 7 digit number cast as part of the block. It is located on the left (drivers) side on the bell housing flange. Starts with a 3 and you want it to end with 519 (3756519). The cylinder heads should have a head marking of a single pyramid on one end. There are more numbers that are important in order to identify the engine but maybe the KISS rule is in order.
Also have a quick look at the transmission. Your car was originally equipped with a Borg Warner T10. It will have a cast iron main case with aluminium side cover and tail shaft housing.
I may be able to help you with original '59 hub caps.
The valve covers would have been the plain stamped steel that look like the passenger car valve covers but actually differ. It is quite common to see base engine cars with the sexier aluminium Corvette scrip value covers. This is where it appears you likely have an originality problem. You will see a a casting flaw running through the letter O. The mold was so worn that in the spring of 1966 it broke. Rather than spend the money to replace the mold with a new one. Chevy ok-ed a repair and the subsequent flaw. They are typical on late '66s and all '67s. These flawed covers were serviced for many years there after. Chevy dealers sold many through their parts departments. Why do I tell you this?
Small block Chevy engines had heads with valve cover staggered attachment bolt pattern from 1955 thru 1958 into early '59. The attaching machine screws on the intake side are not in line with the outboard attaching machine screws. They are closer together than the outside bolts. The valve covers on your engine are not of the staggered hole attachment variety. Which begs the question is this an early or late car? For that I would need to know the VIN.
While you are there I suggest you check the block casting number. It is a 7 digit number cast as part of the block. It is located on the left (drivers) side on the bell housing flange. Starts with a 3 and you want it to end with 519 (3756519). The cylinder heads should have a head marking of a single pyramid on one end. There are more numbers that are important in order to identify the engine but maybe the KISS rule is in order.
Also have a quick look at the transmission. Your car was originally equipped with a Borg Warner T10. It will have a cast iron main case with aluminium side cover and tail shaft housing.
I may be able to help you with original '59 hub caps.
I would be interested in the hub caps. I picked up a ‘58 of the same colour scheme last fall. I like caps that are on it (original to the fuelies) but would like a second pair of whitewall tires and would like original full caps (spinners) for them.
I’m located in B.C.
Attachments
After looking numbers over and research I have found that the car is indeed a 57-66 283 block and heads. The intake manifold is from a 66 327 Chevelle, Impala or nova and matching carburetor. 275hp spec. Nothing special. The Rochester is a 750cfm unit. Or breathes a bit better than the Carter but nothing else. MJ59S106787 this is my car's vin tag. Is there anyway to decode the vin for options list? As for the transmission it is indeed a t10. Looks like somebody wasn't happy with the original induction but happy with everything else. I am interested in the hubcaps but allow me to open the trunk before buying. I am told my originals may be in there. I do not have keys.
57-66 283. That's rather ambiguous. The casting number changed at least 6 or 7 times in that time frame. Chevy only changed the casting number when they made a change in a casting. 57s were 548s (last 3 numbers). 1958s were 739s. 1959s thru 1961 were 519s with a very few 935s in the spring of '61. 1961 was the last year for the 283 in a Corvette. So what casting number do you have?
The door, ignition, trunk and storage compartment between the seats all operate with the same key, the ignition key. The doors should lock with the teeth of key facing down and rotting the key towards the rear of the car. Or clockwise on the drivers side and counter clockwise on the passenger side.
As I have said before there is very little to be learned from the VIN. Nothing pertaining to options, colour etc. J=the body, J represents an 800 series body which is Corvette. 59= the year which is 1959. S= the assembly plant and the S represents St. Louis, Missouri. The 1 after the S was called a counting or accounting digit years ago and yields no information and does not change or progress. 06787= the sequential number. Meaning it is the six thousandth seven hundred and eighty seventh 1959 Corvette built. Just over two thirds of that years production.
Can you send me a picture of the VIN tag? I am interested in the M at the beginning.
Based on your 57-66 283 statement it sounds like you are referencing some generic information source. I second the recommendation of another poster that you acquire an NCRS 1958-60 Technical Information Manual & Judging Guide. They are currently out of print right now and I suspect will be for a while. I have an extra I have never used. I think you would need to join before you could buy one via mail order. Which is additional cost. I also have a signed copy of Bob Bairds book I could part with. I see Bob from time to time.
The door, ignition, trunk and storage compartment between the seats all operate with the same key, the ignition key. The doors should lock with the teeth of key facing down and rotting the key towards the rear of the car. Or clockwise on the drivers side and counter clockwise on the passenger side.
As I have said before there is very little to be learned from the VIN. Nothing pertaining to options, colour etc. J=the body, J represents an 800 series body which is Corvette. 59= the year which is 1959. S= the assembly plant and the S represents St. Louis, Missouri. The 1 after the S was called a counting or accounting digit years ago and yields no information and does not change or progress. 06787= the sequential number. Meaning it is the six thousandth seven hundred and eighty seventh 1959 Corvette built. Just over two thirds of that years production.
Can you send me a picture of the VIN tag? I am interested in the M at the beginning.
Based on your 57-66 283 statement it sounds like you are referencing some generic information source. I second the recommendation of another poster that you acquire an NCRS 1958-60 Technical Information Manual & Judging Guide. They are currently out of print right now and I suspect will be for a while. I have an extra I have never used. I think you would need to join before you could buy one via mail order. Which is additional cost. I also have a signed copy of Bob Bairds book I could part with. I see Bob from time to time.
The original keys were apparently lost. The ignition can still be rotated and start the car. I will be purchasing new lock cylinders and keys. I will take some pictures for you to examine this weekend.
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