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What Did U Do 2day ?
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeremiad" data-source="post: 143885" data-attributes="member: 3108"><p>I spent another day trying to solve problems that apparently nobody else that I talk to has ever experienced before. Clearly, I am talking to the wrong people, but where do you find the people who do know?</p><p></p><p>My first issue was that I'm trying to install a bathtub that has a threaded drain, into a threaded drainpipe. Sounds pretty simple, doesn't it? I thought so too. I already redid the drainpipe a few weeks ago to get rid of the overflow pipe, and I knew that the new tub was going to use a threaded drain, so I plumbed it accordingly and mounted the flange flush with the floor. As I got the tub upstairs and started to install it, I found that the tub drain does not go to the floor at all. It's 2-5/8" short of even touching the floor, let alone how far it needs to thread in. The brass tailpiece that was included with it isn't much good to me because it is not threaded, and I'm not willing to just let it 'sit' in the drain hole. I thought about just extending the drain pipe up (not just pull it up, but actually plumb it higher), but I came to realize that won't work either because once I thread the tub drain into the drain pipe, I have no way to tighten the bottom nut to seal the bottom layer of the tub which houses the overflow. I'm really not interested in cutting a hole in my kitchen ceiling to get access to that nut from the floor below. </p><p></p><p>I have been so frustrated with talking to people about this and finding no solutions. I'm not talking about making inquiries at Home Depot or Rona or Home Hardware. I'm talking about plumbing suppliers who claim to be professionals at plumbing like Emco, Wolsely, and Bartle and Gibson. I finally stumbled across an island drain that is designed for exactly this issue. It's not a cheap solution, but it will absolutely solve my problem. I am still going to have to change the plumbing again to accommodate this, but it will also allow me to put a patch in the floor to pretty much completely cover the huge hole that was existing for the previous drain, and had I know about this earlier, it would have allowed me to tile all the way around this drain and made a very pretty drain that no one but me would ever see. </p><p></p><p>The second issue that I dealt with today revolved around trying to mount a beam box at the peak of a vaulted ceiling. Of course the problem that I am having is that the angles are not 90 degrees (or 45 either), so I can't just use corner brackets or angle brackets. I do have an angle finder, but the space I am working with is too short to allow me to use it. So I'm pretty much guessing and experimenting. I didn't enjoy mathematics in school, and trying to determine the angle of a triangle 3 feet by 15 feet is harder to calculate than I remember. Of course, the length of the rafter is longer than 15 feet because it overhangs to the roof, but I don't know how much. Anyway, I found that short bit of 2x4 cut at 13 degrees looked pretty good. It worked for one side of the box, on the longer side of the peak. I used 2-1/2" screws to mount them through the drywall and into the rafters and the cut edge would give me a decent vertical edge to mount that side of the box to. The other side of the box is closer to the peak, so I cut my bits of 2x4 a fair bit narrower so that they would fit between the peak and the other side, but of course when I ran a screw into it, the piece was too narrow and it just split. </p><p></p><p>So I wondered long and hard about how I could make an arbitrary angle work in a narrow space, and a solution came to me. Hinges! I could use a 1-3/4" screw to run through the hinge and into the rafter, and a 3/4" screw to run into the plank for the box. The hinges allow the plank to hang at whatever angle I want, and gravity makes it want to hang fairly close to straight. Of course my new solution left me with a problem of needing the screws to run into the plank at the ceiling level and it being a box meant that I had about 5 inches to work in to drive a screw in straight, which I wasn't going to be able to do with my drill or my pneumatic nailgun. I solved that issue with a little 1/4" ratchet handle with a small Robertson bit. </p><p></p><p>As lame as this story might sound to any of you plumbers and carpenters out there, these were both big deal accomplishments to me today. I very proudly explained my endeavors and solutions to my wife, who nodded and said, "Nice job dear.", and likely understood little or none of it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeremiad, post: 143885, member: 3108"] I spent another day trying to solve problems that apparently nobody else that I talk to has ever experienced before. Clearly, I am talking to the wrong people, but where do you find the people who do know? My first issue was that I'm trying to install a bathtub that has a threaded drain, into a threaded drainpipe. Sounds pretty simple, doesn't it? I thought so too. I already redid the drainpipe a few weeks ago to get rid of the overflow pipe, and I knew that the new tub was going to use a threaded drain, so I plumbed it accordingly and mounted the flange flush with the floor. As I got the tub upstairs and started to install it, I found that the tub drain does not go to the floor at all. It's 2-5/8" short of even touching the floor, let alone how far it needs to thread in. The brass tailpiece that was included with it isn't much good to me because it is not threaded, and I'm not willing to just let it 'sit' in the drain hole. I thought about just extending the drain pipe up (not just pull it up, but actually plumb it higher), but I came to realize that won't work either because once I thread the tub drain into the drain pipe, I have no way to tighten the bottom nut to seal the bottom layer of the tub which houses the overflow. I'm really not interested in cutting a hole in my kitchen ceiling to get access to that nut from the floor below. I have been so frustrated with talking to people about this and finding no solutions. I'm not talking about making inquiries at Home Depot or Rona or Home Hardware. I'm talking about plumbing suppliers who claim to be professionals at plumbing like Emco, Wolsely, and Bartle and Gibson. I finally stumbled across an island drain that is designed for exactly this issue. It's not a cheap solution, but it will absolutely solve my problem. I am still going to have to change the plumbing again to accommodate this, but it will also allow me to put a patch in the floor to pretty much completely cover the huge hole that was existing for the previous drain, and had I know about this earlier, it would have allowed me to tile all the way around this drain and made a very pretty drain that no one but me would ever see. The second issue that I dealt with today revolved around trying to mount a beam box at the peak of a vaulted ceiling. Of course the problem that I am having is that the angles are not 90 degrees (or 45 either), so I can't just use corner brackets or angle brackets. I do have an angle finder, but the space I am working with is too short to allow me to use it. So I'm pretty much guessing and experimenting. I didn't enjoy mathematics in school, and trying to determine the angle of a triangle 3 feet by 15 feet is harder to calculate than I remember. Of course, the length of the rafter is longer than 15 feet because it overhangs to the roof, but I don't know how much. Anyway, I found that short bit of 2x4 cut at 13 degrees looked pretty good. It worked for one side of the box, on the longer side of the peak. I used 2-1/2" screws to mount them through the drywall and into the rafters and the cut edge would give me a decent vertical edge to mount that side of the box to. The other side of the box is closer to the peak, so I cut my bits of 2x4 a fair bit narrower so that they would fit between the peak and the other side, but of course when I ran a screw into it, the piece was too narrow and it just split. So I wondered long and hard about how I could make an arbitrary angle work in a narrow space, and a solution came to me. Hinges! I could use a 1-3/4" screw to run through the hinge and into the rafter, and a 3/4" screw to run into the plank for the box. The hinges allow the plank to hang at whatever angle I want, and gravity makes it want to hang fairly close to straight. Of course my new solution left me with a problem of needing the screws to run into the plank at the ceiling level and it being a box meant that I had about 5 inches to work in to drive a screw in straight, which I wasn't going to be able to do with my drill or my pneumatic nailgun. I solved that issue with a little 1/4" ratchet handle with a small Robertson bit. As lame as this story might sound to any of you plumbers and carpenters out there, these were both big deal accomplishments to me today. I very proudly explained my endeavors and solutions to my wife, who nodded and said, "Nice job dear.", and likely understood little or none of it. [/QUOTE]
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