Question On my 1985 C4, there is a noise from the right front wheel. I bought new calliper pins and rubber bushings, but somehow I don't think this....

AxeZ06 said:
Could the wheel bearing be worn out?
Click to expand...

My 85 chev pick up had a noise in the right front wheel... sounded like a rock in the brakes scuffing... would disappear when I put my foot on the brake...left it for about 1500 km, then finally jacked it up and reefed back and forth on the wheel from top to bottom. The bearing was so shot it had 2 inches of movement... Mechanic said I was really lucky it didn't totally fail and loose steering...
 
I'm sure it could be a worn wheel bearing, The noise is there with or without the brake pedal pressed. I suppose I could farm this job out but with the virus , all shops are closed.
I have changed wheel bearings as a kid, but I'm sure it's an issue with any Corvette.
I really don't look forward to jacking this car up, but if I need to I should go after the wheel wheel bearing first. Thanks for your reply.
I'll check for illustrations on doing this job.
I wonder if it's inner or outer?
 
Last summer I had a mechanic put the car on a lift. He claimed everything was tight and the noise could be a loose caliper. He's the one who suggested getting the new rubber bushings and caliper bolts. I don't know, but this is the type of noise that is easy to ignore because it isn't there 100% of the time. Also, I wonder if it's a balancing weight hitting the rotor, or even a slight crack in the wheel? I'd love to get to the bottom of this. Otherwise, this car is really original and in choice condition...
 
I've never serviced one, but the symptoms sound familiar.
I've driven hondas for decades, and they have chronic wheel bearing issues.
The bearing in them in encased / annoying (I've helped) / and expensive.
Wheel bearings for your car shouldn't be hard to replace, and likely just bearings, sans casing.
Just keep taking stuff apart until you find them....lol.
Remove & replace.
Hope that's all it is.
 
I would just start taking things apart on that front wheel. As you strip it down, the culprit will likely reveal itself. To check the bearing, grab the wheel top and bottom and shake it. A loose bearing should be obvious, with a bit of a clunking, even with the brakes still installed. Brakes and brackets should come off within an hour and it should be easy to inspect each part as you remove it.
 
some tips diagnosing wheel bearings:

If it "roars" when you turn left or right, the bearing is going bad. It means either the rollers or races are breaking down and making a "roar" noise on turns. It's there when not turning, you just can't hear it. Turning put much higher loads on the bearings and so the noise gets louder.

Jack up the wheel in question. Grab the tire at 12 and 6. Pull and push in and out. the wheel should not move or "clunk". Mke sure it is the bearing that has play and not the front end suspension components as this is also how you check upper and lower ball joints for play. You can also grab at 3 and 9, but its easier to confuse play in this direction for steering movement or play in the tie rods.

Typically, wheel bearings will not "clunk", they growl or roar. If a wheel bearing is clunking, you are waaaaaay past the point of normal wear. Clunks can be nearly ANYTHING else in the front suspension. you need to get in there and do some sleuthing to find out what.

Can you describe the noise? Different components make different noises although some problems that are different components can make the same noises.

C4's do not have inner and outer front wheel bearings. It what's called a "unitized hub". Meaning: it's one big bearing that's sealed for life:

Untitled-2.jpg


It bolts to the steering knuckle and everything hangs off that: brake rotor, wheel. the brake caliper hangs off the steering knuckle.

BTW; "for life" means until the bearing dies, not how long you have the car.....

One other thing: unitized bearing are not cheap. Don't buy the cheapest one you can find, it won't last. This is a critical component to operation and safety. Buy a good brand name one with a decent warranty. It's goingt o probably cost you somewhere in the 150-200 dollar range for just the bearing.

Whatever you do, STAY AWAY FROM CANADIAN TIRE "WHITE BOX" CRAP! I tried to use them before and they didn't even last a week. Then, when you try to return them, you get the "these were installed" runaround.....just spend the money and get a brand name like SKF, timken, etc. If you do, the bearing will probably last longer than you will own the car. It's not an easy job, it's not soemthing you want to ave to pay for twice, or go through the heartache of replacing in you garage a second time. Itwoudln't normally be a hard job, but I've yet to change a unitized bearing where the attaching bolts weren't frozen solid, stripped or just not enough room to get a good socket or wrench on it....
 
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sharkface said:
I'm sure it could be a worn wheel bearing, The noise is there with or without the brake pedal pressed. I suppose I could farm this job out but with the virus , all shops are closed.
I have changed wheel bearings as a kid, but I'm sure it's an issue with any Corvette.
I really don't look forward to jacking this car up, but if I need to I should go after the wheel wheel bearing first. Thanks for your reply.
I'll check for illustrations on doing this job.
I wonder if it's inner or outer?
Click to expand...

There are 3 types of wheel bearings
1. There is the cone type which pretty much never fails, they all come apart the same way. Here is a vid on a VW, older Chevy is the same


2. There is press in to the spindle type, lots of Japanese have these
3. There is a hub and bearing unit (whole piece comes together) - This is what you have, here is a vid on a Toyota, its pretty much same procedure as yours.



I remember when working as a Tech at a GM dealership, the Chevy Cavalier wheel bearing could be changed in under 30min, it was that easy. Very similar to the C4

As one other poster suggested, once you raise the vehicle, grab the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and check for play, if the bearing is loose the rotor will tilt left and right with the vehicle weight as you drive and cause noise.
 
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AxeZ06 said:
I've never serviced one, but the symptoms sound familiar.
I've driven hondas for decades, and they have chronic wheel bearing issues.
The bearing in them in encased / annoying (I've helped) / and expensive.
Wheel bearings for your car shouldn't be hard to replace, and likely just bearings, sans casing.
Just keep taking stuff apart until you find them....lol.
Remove & replace.
Hope that's all it is.
Click to expand...
 
Hello Hello, And thank you for all your concern. I went and ordered a front wheel bearing hub assembly. After watching some videos on replacing this piece, it just bolts to the Aluminum wish bone. Or at least so it looks.

Really what's keeping me from jacking this car up is the garage my C4 is in is short. I have visions of jacking the car up and rolls forward into the wall. Plus, it is too freakin' cold here to be motivated enough to doing the work out doors.
Another job I need to do on this car is drain the overdrive unit and put in a new filter and gasket. This I am not going to do in a garage anyway, esp a nice, clean one.

Let's hope for some good weather and smooth sailing,
Shark
 
front hub easy with basic tools.

4+3 pan and filter, yes, u will get a bit dirty. be sure not to overtighten the pan bolts.

as much as i really hate rtv, this is one application where a proper (finger tight then wait an hour and come back) rtv gasket is useful. the pan flanges get bent from overtightening, rendering the foam type gasket insufficient. i coat top and bottom of foam gasket in rtv for the 4+3. did i mention i hate rtv
 
Thank you all for your kind and expert suggestions. The work needed to be done on my C4, (trans fluid, overdrive trans fluid and filter, and right front wheel bearing,)
are somethings I would do in my sleep a few years ago. Now it seems I'm better at postponing any repairs rather than just moving on and getting them done. Nice, warm, weather would be a prime motivator. It seems like every day here in Ct. , it's damp and cold.
Jacking isn't such a fright anymore after watching Corvettes being jacked up properly on you tube. I do have new large wheel chocks and 3 floor jacks and stands, so now an 80 degree sunny day is all I need... I'd rather work on a car out doors in the sunlight...
 
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