some tips diagnosing wheel bearings:
If it "roars" when you turn left or right, the bearing is going bad. It means either the rollers or races are breaking down and making a "roar" noise on turns. It's there when not turning, you just can't hear it. Turning put much higher loads on the bearings and so the noise gets louder.
Jack up the wheel in question. Grab the tire at 12 and 6. Pull and push in and out. the wheel should not move or "clunk". Mke sure it is the bearing that has play and not the front end suspension components as this is also how you check upper and lower ball joints for play. You can also grab at 3 and 9, but its easier to confuse play in this direction for steering movement or play in the tie rods.
Typically, wheel bearings will not "clunk", they growl or roar. If a wheel bearing is clunking, you are waaaaaay past the point of normal wear. Clunks can be nearly ANYTHING else in the front suspension. you need to get in there and do some sleuthing to find out what.
Can you describe the noise? Different components make different noises although some problems that are different components can make the same noises.
C4's do not have inner and outer front wheel bearings. It what's called a "unitized hub". Meaning: it's one big bearing that's sealed for life:
It bolts to the steering knuckle and everything hangs off that: brake rotor, wheel. the brake caliper hangs off the steering knuckle.
BTW; "for life" means until the bearing dies, not how long you have the car.....
One other thing: unitized bearing are not cheap. Don't buy the cheapest one you can find, it won't last. This is a critical component to operation and safety. Buy a good brand name one with a decent warranty. It's goingt o probably cost you somewhere in the 150-200 dollar range for just the bearing.
Whatever you do, STAY AWAY FROM CANADIAN TIRE "WHITE BOX" CRAP! I tried to use them before and they didn't even last a week. Then, when you try to return them, you get the "these were installed" runaround.....just spend the money and get a brand name like SKF, timken, etc. If you do, the bearing will probably last longer than you will own the car. It's not an easy job, it's not soemthing you want to ave to pay for twice, or go through the heartache of replacing in you garage a second time. Itwoudln't normally be a hard job, but I've yet to change a unitized bearing where the attaching bolts weren't frozen solid, stripped or just not enough room to get a good socket or wrench on it....