Off ramps / carbon ceramic brakes

[AxeZ06]

I really like ramps, on or off (likely from my riding days).
Late last night, I hit an off ramp like I stole it. Brand new / 2 day old pavement, so I got extra 'happy'.
The car whoa'd down superb, as always. I knew the light was red, and just as the car was supposed to stop, the braking felt like wood. I was on them as hard as possible. No abs kicked in. The car stopped, but about 10' later than it should have.
Has anyone else with the Carbon Ceramic brakes noticed this, on a HARD stop from speed? (slows down like nothing I've ever driven).

 

[williame3590]

Yep...they don't stop as well. Rims stay clean though!


Bill

 

[lupo]

@AxeZ06 were the brakes warmed up? Did you just wash the car/or apply any type of product to the rims that could have got onto the rotors?

 

[Vegas1500]

Yep...they don't stop as well. Rims stay clean though!


Bill

They stop way better than metal rotors. OP have you done the proper burnishing procedure?

 

[hemicat]

I haven't noticed an issue with mine.

 

[AxeZ06]

I haven't noticed an issue with mine.

Have you brought the car from 140kph to 0kph as quikly as possible?

@AxeZ06 were the brakes warmed up? Did you just wash the car/or apply any type of product to the rims that could have got onto the rotors?

Good question, but, no. Nothing (water excepted) gets near my brakes.
I rode motorcycles all my life. I've seen the results (from just about everything).

 

[AxeZ06]

They stop way better than metal rotors. OP have you done the proper burnishing procedure?

Not sure.
It's got over 6k kms now. It'll stop in less than a foot from 50kph. Last night was the 1st time I really, really needed to stop (from stupid speed).

 

[Jeffer2013]

They stop way better than metal rotors. OP have you done the proper burnishing procedure?

Yup need to break in the brakes

 

[hemicat]

5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you’re forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.

Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.

After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.

After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.

 

[Jeffer2013]

man well or manual should say as the procedure is a lot more for the new ones I thought

 

[ddgermann]

I really like ramps, on or off (likely from my riding days).
Late last night, I hit an off ramp like I stole it. Brand new / 2 day old pavement, so I got extra 'happy'.
The car whoa'd down superb, as always. I knew the light was red, and just as the car was supposed to stop, the braking felt like wood. I was on them as hard as possible. No abs kicked in. The car stopped, but about 10' later than it should have.
Has anyone else with the Carbon Ceramic brakes noticed this, on a HARD stop from speed? (slows down like nothing I've ever driven).

Yes the guys are correct, you have to burnish these brakes before they really bite hard. It’s not noticeable in day to day driving but ya when you need to get on them hard you won’t stop well until burnished. Was a bit of a WTH??!! moment for you I imagine.
The manual has the procedure. You likely got the process well under way with that offramp moment.
I did mine with the expertise of Jeffy on 275 - 0 stop. All 4 were smoking when it stopped and now the brakes are simply amazing. Actually super sensitive at lower speeds. Night and day difference in performance. Best brakes I’ve ever had. Far superior to the steel brakes which I’ve had on 2 other Z06s. But that’s why you paid all that Z07 $$.

You’re all good.

 

[Jeffer2013]

Yes the guys are correct, you have to burnish these brakes before they really bite hard. It’s not noticeable in day to day driving but ya when you need to get on them hard you won’t stop well until burnished. Was a bit of a WTH??!! moment for you I imagine.
The manual has the procedure. You likely got the process well under way with that offramp moment.
I did mine with the expertise of Jeffy on 275 - 0 stop. All 4 were smoking when it stopped and now the brakes are simply amazing. Actually super sensitive at lower speeds. Night and day difference in performance. Best brakes I’ve ever had. Far superior to the steel brakes which I’ve had on 2 other Z06s. But that’s why you paid all that Z07 $$.

You’re all good.

that experience and the autocross in meet in the middle is why my next vehicle is a shopping cart

 

[ddgermann]

Yep...they don't stop as well. Rims stay clean though!


Bill

Wow... just wow

 

[dallycurtis]

Coming from steel brakes....right into my first drive in a Z06 with 6k on it, I nearly smacked my teeth on the steering wheel the first time I hit them because of how hard it bit....it was about -5 degrees out.....absolutely unreal braking.

 

[SladeX]

I've done back to back test drives with the CCB and steels. The CCB bites hard usually from slower speeds, for higher speeds, I didn't feel that it was all that much better than steels, but I never got to track CCBs. From a track perspective, steels will show some brake degradation over time on track unless you have some good cooling. A few 130mph to 30mph stops would be noticeable very quickly where a properly burnished CCB should go all day.

 

[Baron-Von-Rouge]

Hello folks, I recently purchased a 2016 Z07. As it’s used, I was wondering if their is a way to determine if the previous owner burnished the brakes?

 

[SladeX]

The "burnishing" comes off with normal use. It is recommended to do the brake burnishing procedure just prior to track events to get them prepped for high speed stops. The better question for CCB brakes is, how much mass is still left on your rotors and how much pad you have left. Unless recently weighed and pads inspected, it is hard to tell visually how much CCB life you have left short of it already being gouged and obviously in need of replacement.

The minimum weight and thickness is stamped on the hat of the rotor. With the way ccb brakes wear, you will find the thickness to still be in spec, but the weight should be 100+g of the minimum spec. Do not replace them unless under the min weight, 100g over min spec is a lot of life still left in the rotor.