so could use a little help here. My 2009 still throwing code 175. Had it to chev dealer, on scanner for about 2 hrs, everything is good at driving conditions but it stumbles when idling, no obvious issues. Suggested I run cleaners thru it to clean injectors so I did but still stumbles at idle. It is not the MAF or an oxygen sensor as those have been replaced in last year or so. Need to figure this out before my trip to states as it did go into limp mode one time last year, which means 20kph til you clear code.
need advice on code 175
- Thread starter Cinor
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Don't totally give up on the O2 sensor. I had one replaced and was back 6 months later with the same problem. Had to put a new one in again.
Not sure if this will help. But take read
Link removed
Link removed
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your link was removed so wasn't sure what you were sharing
If it's only the right side bank that's running rich, you could always swap o2 sensors between the left and the right to see if the error also changes sides, then you'd know it's the o2 sensor for sure. If it isn't, could it be wiring? A weak spark plug?
Crusher's link was removed as forum rules and legal ramifications do not allow links to certain things. (Another corvette forum being one of them). Crusher was PM'd and given the option of copying and pasting the article for you, giving recognition to the original poster and the site (which would be fine to do). Possibly he has not seen his PM so I will do the honours and post the original article here. Thanks to Crusher for researching.
Referenced post from Corvette Forums:
Patrick Trageser
CULTRAG Performance
Here is some good infomation I have come across for you all. This was discovered by them while testing thier intake for the 5th generation Camaros and hence the same issue has been reported on several Corvettes with either the LS3, LS7 or LS9, mainly after the install of a intake because of the increased airflow. There have been reports from serveral people of hesitations without a intake install and this has been known to fix those cars as well. I have these available if you check and find you have a "weak" one. They are all double verified once when new stock is recieved then again once it is shiped.
Price is 70.07 ea.
To order simply give us a call shoot me an email at [email protected] or here is a link to order online
http://store.gmpartshouse.com/partlo...catalogid=8669
This was from Vararams web site.To order simply give us a call shoot me an email at [email protected] or here is a link to order online
http://store.gmpartshouse.com/partlo...catalogid=8669
The Air Meter
During our testing we discovered a disparity between identical Camaros in terms of there reaction to changes in airflow and weather conditions.
We noticed that one car would be finicky at cold start and the MAF would scale "weak" while others would be strong and clean.
What we discovered was that the 'WEAK" meters were reading 1560-1670HZ at idle with the A/C off (OEM is 1800MHZ+)
During on road, light throttle input the MHZ would be slow and weak to respond to throttle changes (hesitation)
Wide open throttle showed 120-170MHZ lower than OEM stock (OEM is about 8600MHZ) on the same car.
Weak Meter Fuel trims-
The fuel trims would go to -15% using a VR -3% for a panel filter and -5-8% for other intakes. MHZ would drop as would the idle. When the MAF scaled in at WOT each would richen up accordingly.
Test 2 we pulled the filter from the VR completely, this resulted in fuel trims dropping down from -15% to -24%, MHZ dropped another 70-90MHZ. The car would drive fine but WOT operation was basically weak/flat and timing was low etc...
Now with one simple meter swap which takes about 1min the car immediately corrected, went back to 0% fuel trim MHZ jumped back to 1800+ all within 30 seconds! The car drove like a Rocket!
We began final confirmation by swapping air meters in cars and doing volt meter testing in static conditions. 30 meters, 3 cars = the same exact result every time. We confirmed this with VR customers tuners around the US.
The Result is that these 'weak" meters are not showing the same resistance levels as the majority of OEM meters.
This lead us to contact the GM rep and the actual manufacturer of the meters (its not Dephi) They confirmed the factory which allow us to identify each meter.
These numbers and letters are located on the back of the meter as shown.
(WHAT TO LOOK FOR) The factory code.
The suspect meters have all consistantly had a single letter located in this area VS a number with a letter.
Here is the catch 22
If the airflow is not changed by a substantial amount (our flow testing verifies that most of the aftermarket boxes do not) over OEM then the meter will be within OEM Tolerance but will always be "weak"
you cannot tune this out, its a fundamental issue with the resistance of the meter. It needs to be replaced. This is why some cars are finiky and some are not.
Thanks for removing the link...Sorry about that
No worries Crusher. All good. 
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