Looking for some advise on what C6 to buy

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Hello Corvetters
I am currently seriously considering buying a C6 (it's the model I like the most) but I am unsure what model to jump on
I have 0 experience driving a super fast car. But I want a fast car.
I keep reading that a Z06 is for lack of a better word violent, but has it's own problems with the engine that can render the engine dead.
I like the wide body look of the Z06 and Grand Sport
But I'm really undecided because I don't feel like I know enough about the differences between the C6 / C6Z / C6GS
How fast (or how much faster) is a Z06 compared to a regular C6
How much better is it at handling
Will I see any difference between the two if I have no real experience driving an ultra fast car
Thanks!
 
Welcome to the forum.
I wouldn't call the Stingray or GS "super fast", but they are fast enough for the street.
I don't know much either, but if you want a daily driver I'd consider the GS since you like the wide body and you get better handling. As to issues, I have no idea. I'll wait for others to help you there.
 
Maybe you could consider a base coupe that has been performance enhanced to greater than Z06 output with mechanical improvements to ensure long life. Yes I have it for sale. DM me for details if you might be interested.
Hi . You may want to post this in our Classifieds section for greater exposure. Include of course pictures and specs as well as price . Anyone interested can send you a DM as it not recommended to post your email, address, phone number etc being a public forum. Good luck !
 
I owned a c6 Z and it put a smile on my face everytime I drove it.
Don’t worry about the LS7. I had zero issues with mine. Had the oil checked every year to ensure no titanium shavings were found.
This is the first warning sign you have a problem.
The GS is also a great choice.
If you are buying a GS, I suggest you look at the 2012 and 2013. The seats are better.
 
Some C6 issues are the fuel tank/pump causing an order of gas due to "cracking of the tank/lines". The tank(s) need to be replaced, easier on a 6 speed vs auto. Some had issues with the fuse block internal wire breaking because of a two shape bend. This can be fix DYI by adding an external wire? Another is the harmonic balance needing to be replaced. Look at the balancer while the engine is running to see if it wobbles ar it can, I think, make a chirping noise. These are what comes to mind as common issues to look for.

Z06's had an issue with the valves/guides. Before you buy a Zo6 make sure this has been looked after. If you get a Z06 they can oversteer very quickly if not careful with the right foot.

Also if a manual, the clutch fluid can have clutch dust contamination. Also the pedal can go to the floor if the fluid isn't changed as needed.

Cheers, John
 
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Anyone have any references for any being sold (maybe not on auto trader)\Thanks!
Also, there is the valve issue on the Z06, is this something that a mechanic would be able to deteirmine if was corrected?
My fear with the Z06 is I get a lemon and am out an engine.

This wouldn't be a daily driver, it would be something that I use on the weekend just to enjoy. So I am just trying to get the best bang for my buck, I'm looking for a black on black hard top, just dont know if I should go with a Base or a Z06.

From what I understand the GS model was made in 2010 to 2013 but the people I have spoken to say that the c6 2006 is really the last model they made where it's just man and machine before all the electronics took over.

I like the analog cluster also.

Not sure if that makes sense
 
Anyone have any references for any being sold (maybe not on auto trader)\Thanks!
Also, there is the valve issue on the Z06, is this something that a mechanic would be able to deteirmine if was corrected?
My fear with the Z06 is I get a lemon and am out an engine.

This wouldn't be a daily driver, it would be something that I use on the weekend just to enjoy. So I am just trying to get the best bang for my buck, I'm looking for a black on black hard top, just dont know if I should go with a Base or a Z06.

From what I understand the GS model was made in 2010 to 2013 but the people I have spoken to say that the c6 2006 is really the last model they made where it's just man and machine before all the electronics took over.

I like the analog cluster also.

Not sure if that makes sense
I'm not personally familiar with the potential issues you may encounter but a quick search found the following. Pour a coffee........ and here is a link to the Perplexity AI page of results . The footnotes linking to the source of the information don't copy/paste but if you hit the link they will be there so you can check where each result originated. You should do a separate Carfax check as well when you get a VIN . Free VIN Decoder: VIN Check & Lookup in Canada | CARFAX Canada (https://www.carfax.ca/tools/vin-decode)


The 2006 Z06 is an incredible car, but the early LS7 and C6 chassis do have some well‑known problem areas you’ll want to screen hard before buying.����Biggest known issuesLS7 valvetrain and valve guidesPremature exhaust valve guide wear and out‑of‑round guides can lead to a dropped valve and catastrophic engine failure on LS7s (particularly early C6 Z06 like 2006).����Contributing factors include tight/incorrect guide clearances from the factory, aggressive cam profiles, and side‑loading from the rocker geometry at higher lifts.��There is no reliable way to tell “good” from “bad” LS7 heads by casting number or VIN alone; many specialists recommend assuming the heads need to be checked or rebuilt if not already done.��General LS7 wear pointsHigh‑rev use and track time can accelerate lifter, rocker, and valve spring wear, increasing the risk of valvetrain problems.��Metal in the oil or filter can be an early sign of valvetrain or bottom‑end distress.�Driveline (transaxle and differential)C6 rear differentials and transaxles can fail if abused (burnouts, clutch dumps, big power, sticky tires), often showing up first as whining, clunking, or metal in the diff fluid.�Once cracks or internal damage begin in a high‑stress gearbox, they do not self‑heal and will progress with use.�Age‑related C6 issues (not Z06‑specific but common at this age)Bushings, shocks, and control arm components wear and can cause looseness, vibration, or uneven tire wear on older C6s.�General used‑car issues: brakes, cooling system, belts/hoses, battery, and exhaust condition should be checked like any performance car.��What to insist on before you buyDocumentation of LS7 head/valve guide workAsk for invoices showing the cylinder heads have been rebuilt or replaced by a reputable shop (guide replacement, proper clearances, often new valves and springs).���If there is no proof of head work, factor the cost of pulling the heads and having guides measured or rebuilt into your offer; many LS7 specialists essentially treat this as mandatory insurance.���Professional pre‑purchase inspection (PPI)Have a performance‑savvy shop do a full inspection including engine, driveline, suspension, brakes, and frame, following a structured checklist (fluids, leaks, bushings, alignment, brakes, etc.).��Ask them specifically to listen for valvetrain noise, check for misfires, check for metal in oil, and inspect the underside for leaks or damage.���Specific checks on the LS7Engine health checksWarm compression and leak‑down tests across all cylinders to screen for existing sealing issues.��Bore‑scope of combustion chambers if the shop can do it, looking for impact marks or abnormal deposits that might hint at valve problems.�Valvetrain/guide statusIf you are serious and there is no documentation, the gold standard is pulling the heads and measuring guide clearance and wear; many teardown videos show significant play on problem LS7 guides.��Short of that, listen for ticking, knocking, or inconsistent valvetrain noise at idle and under light load, and check for misfire codes.��Oil and maintenance historyConfirm frequent oil changes with the correct spec oil and long‑term use of high RPM or track events, since hard use plus poor maintenance accelerates LS7 failures.��Have the shop cut open the oil filter and inspect for metallic debris as part of the inspection.�Chassis, driveline, and general items to checkDifferential, transaxle, and rear endRoad‑test for whining or howling under steady cruise and on/off throttle, clunks when taking up drive, or vibration at speed, all of which can signal diff or transaxle issues.��Inspect diff and trans fluid; visible metal or burnt smell is a bad sign.�Suspension, steering, brakesInspect control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods, and sway bar links for play or deterioration; worn parts are common on older performance cars.��Check for even tire wear, which reflects alignment and suspension health; cupping or inner‑edge wear can indicate problems.��Confirm brake pad thickness, rotor condition, and proper brake operation with no pulling or vibration.�Body, frame, and underbodyPut the car on a lift and inspect the frame rails, suspension mounting points, and underbody for accident repairs, cracks, or bent components.��Look for evidence of track abuse (rubber buildup, scraped undertray, aftermarket track parts) and decide if that matches how you plan to use the car.�Paperwork and deal strategyService records and modificationsFavour cars with thick paper trails: oil changes, clutch/diff services, and especially documented LS7 head work by a known shop.��Be cautious with heavily modified examples (big cams, high‑lift valvetrain, forced induction) because these changes can aggravate the LS7’s inherent valvetrain weaknesses if not done correctly.��Pricing with risk in mindPrice the car assuming you may need to budget for LS7 head work if there is no proof it has been done; many owners treat this like a preventive rebuild cost of ownership.���If you have a specific 2006 Z06 in mind (mileage, mods, and what documentation is available), share the details and I can help you decide how hard to push on price and which inspection items to prioritize.
 
Thats a good read. Although some of it IMO is standard to buying any car (checking for general misuse / abuse / normal wear and tear) some other parts of that novel makes you almost not want to buy anything with an LS7
 

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