Riley P

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Hey Manny!

With my car throwing code P3027 still. I assume the wiring or knock sensor on the car is F'd. I reset the code and sometimes get away with it not throwing the code, but on 90% of the drives it does as soon as the engine starts getting to temperature. I also notice that it's down on power, it just doesn't have the go it used to.

What is your recommendation? Is it as easy as removing the intake, taking the sensor out and replacing it with a new one? Can I drive the car in the meantime with the sensor out of whack? I assume I can as I am still using premium so it should not be suffering from a risk of knock. Plus with this code, I would expect the car to just retard the timing regardless if it senses knock or not to protect itself in case knocking could occur and it can't sense it (hence the feeling of it being low on power).

I also want to know if I can drive it in this condition until I store it so I have time to save up for an intake over winter. Are there any intakes you would recommend? I was thinking of just moving up to a ZO6 intake as the car is mostly stock unless you have better ideas (and would you have any Z06 intakes on hand?). Maybe when I get an intake off of you, I'll finally spring for those frame protectors.

Thanks Manny!

Riley

If anyone else has ideas on intakes, I'm all ears!
 
Oh Man! Would that be sweet to come out east. I can't see that happening any time soon though. I imagine I would be just having the intake shipped. To come out east, I would like to have some deep pockets to have Manny work his real magic on the car to the tune of....possibly a head/cam combo, but probably something more like a TT setup...with a specifically ground forced induction cam. To do that, I'll also need money for a new clutch, TR6060 upgrade to the 6 speed, hardened pinion and axle shafts in the rear end, tunnel plate, headers, lowering, rear end brace....and....an upgraded fuel system and whatever else Manny would deem necessary. Hopefully that would be able to plant a honest to goodness reliable 500rwhp while maintaining some decent mpg.

I have to keep up with the girlfriends Mustang somehow when she adds a supercharger to her Roush. For now, I have 45hp on her and 300 less pounds so I should be good.:D
 
Oh Man! Would that be sweet to come out east. I can't see that happening any time soon though. I imagine I would be just having the intake shipped. To come out east, I would like to have some deep pockets to have Manny work his real magic on the car to the tune of....possibly a head/cam combo, but probably something more like a TT setup...with a specifically ground forced induction cam. To do that, I'll also need money for a new clutch, TR6060 upgrade to the 6 speed, hardened pinion and axle shafts in the rear end, tunnel plate, headers, lowering, rear end brace....and....an upgraded fuel system and whatever else Manny would deem necessary. Hopefully that would be able to plant a honest to goodness reliable 500rwhp while maintaining some decent mpg.

I have to keep up with the girlfriends Mustang somehow when she adds a supercharger to her Roush. For now, I have 45hp on her and 300 less pounds so I should be good.:D

Keep us in mind -- You get a sudden windfall of funds, you know where you're welcome and looked after.

Your G/F's pony sounds awesome, but tell her a 'vette can always stay ahead with just a tweak or 2 here or there so it's really pointless beatin' so hard on her Ford.:D


(Don't you dare tell her I've got Fords alongside my 'Vette in the garage.:eek::))

C.
 
STOP DRIVING !

Put it away for now as you don't want to cause any damage . Remove the intake and replace both knock sensors with the one from the 2002 and up ones . It's not too bad a job and I can always help via phone .
 
Done! Those are some pretty clear instructions. Where do you suggest I purchase knock sensors from Manny? Dealership? I heard the most difficult job is disconnecting the fuel line.

Thank goodness you read this post now before I carried on putting around!

Is the danger that without the knock sensors the engine won't know if there is knocking so it can't adjust the timing or does the timing on the car mess up once the knock sensors go so it is more prone to detonation?
 
The dealership suggests that I also order the harness for the knock sensors. Is this something I should change at the same time? How much to I have to take apart to get to the other end of the harness?

As for intake gaskets, the dealership wants 166.25 where an automotive shop wants 40.10 but they say as long as the engine is a 'G' code engine. Is my engine a 'G' code engine? Why the huge difference in price? The knock sensors are 5 dollars different between the dealership and automotive shop.

Thank you very much for your help on this Manny!
 
Riley , order all the parts Rockauto in the US , about half the cost of CND dealers or shops . No extra charges either . If you are removing the intake to replace it , than disconnect the fuel line , other wise you can leave it attached to the intake , just flip it over to the drives side . You cam get the fuel line disconnect tool from Crappy Tire (3/8" fuel line ) . Make sure that when doing it , you open the gas fill door and release the pressure in the fuel rails by using the shrader valve .
 
Awesome, thanks Manny. I will look them up today.

What parts do I need?

So far I figure I need:
Front Knock Sensor (2002 Corvette)
Rear Knock Sensor (2002 Corvette)
Knock Sensor Harness (2000 Corvette)
Intake Gaskets (2000 Corvette)

Is that it or are there other things I should look into? Do I need a new harness?

Having trouble locating the knock sensors. What category are they under?
 
Awesome, thanks Manny. I will look them up today.

What parts do I need?

So far I figure I need:
Front Knock Sensor (2002 Corvette)
Rear Knock Sensor (2002 Corvette)

Knock Sensor Harness (2000 Corvette)
Intake Gaskets (2000 Corvette)

Is that it or are there other things I should look into? Do I need a new harness?

Having trouble locating the knock sensors. What category are they under?


Just had a quick run thru of their site and it looks like you need to scroll down to Electrical Connector section -- open it up and go down to knock sensor connectors and that should have the part(s) you need.

RockAuto Auto Parts

Cool site. Thanks for the tip Manny.



G/L
 
Is that the knock sensor itself or just the connector? I've checked under Engine, all the different Electrical categories, Ignition, and Fuel/Air.

Thank you very much for all your help so far Manny. It's very appreciated.

Thanks for checking the site for me Colin, hopefully I can get the parts and have my car on the road sooner than later!
 
Is that the knock sensor itself or just the connector? I've checked under Engine, all the different Electrical categories, Ignition, and Fuel/Air.

Thank you very much for all your help so far Manny. It's very appreciated.

Thanks for checking the site for me Colin, hopefully I can get the parts and have my car on the road sooner than later!

I found something I didn't notice b4: right under Corvette is this:

5.7L 350cid V8 FI (G) OHV

This is live and if you click on the + at left it opens up a part search. Type in your knock sensor and it highlights all categories concerning knock sensor (including the actual knock sensor itself)..

That'll get you where you want to go.

C.
 
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

Thanks C! I never noticed that.

I would have never looked under Emission. Crazy. Manny, I may need your advice on which harness to purchase though because the dealerships harness has two connectors and everything on Rockauto is one connector wire.
 
Sweeeeeeeeeeeeeet!

Thanks C! I never noticed that.

I would have never looked under Emission. Crazy. Manny, I may need your advice on which harness to purchase though because the dealerships harness has two connectors and everything on Rockauto is one connector wire.

Under the manifold each sensor has 1 wire , but they both connect to a single plug , so the 2 wire plug is wha you need .
 

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