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I Can See Clearly Now (HID)

Jan 30, 2009
854
19
Acton Ontario
VetteCoins
738
Car
2006 Vert
I installed my HID Low Beams and HID Fog Lights.
This Mod is one of the best bang for the buck mods I have done to date WOW !!!!:coolgleam:

This picture was taken last night with only the factory Low Beams on.



This picture was taken tonight with the NEW FANTASTIC HID Low Beams and HID Fog Lights on.:coolgleam:




I knew the factory bulbs sucked, but I did not realize how bad they were.
 
Those are incredible results.
I knew the factory bulbs sucks when only going 100km/h and I couldn't see where I was driving.
I believe...never mind.
 
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Was this something that was easy to change yourself? What did it cost including the ballasts?

These come as a plug and play kit.
What you see here came with the slim ballast, all wiring and a resistor to ensure the lights go up and down properly.
We did a group buy on another forum a few months ago. The shipped price was $215.00
To install everything took about 4 hours.

I think 07Silvervette17 is selling a very similar product on this forum.

***Thanks for the compliments Guys.***
 
huge diff.... How long did it take you Mark?

I see said the blind man...

Hi BAD-C5 (Paul)....love your avatar. At first I was hoping it was you...then I saw the "paul" name.

I think that avatar might get banded on the "other" forum...maybe someone could Photoshop Paul's avatar and sent it off to Legendary

Jack
 

Hey Jack,

Thank you. I have gotten banned from another forum they asked me to change it and i refused.... Oh well #$%^ happens i guess. This looks to be a great forum with great members.
 
put mine in today, one fog light doesnt work

big difference, i got 8000 kit and my dads new lexus lights look like crap compared to mine ! just need to adjust the beams properly now.

- Kons
 
Actually found a good writeup on the headlight alignment if anyone wants its below:



Preparation:

Prepare the aiming area. You can use the garage wall providing its at least 25’ from the car and the ground is level.

Mark some calibration lines using chalk or masking tape:
Find the center of the headlight and measure the distance to the ground. Mark a horizontal line on the surface (garage door or wall) using masking
tape at the same distance from the ground.
Stick a piece of tape in the center of the windscreen and another on the rear glass to use as reference marks.
Line these up from behind the car and use them to mark the centerline of the car on the wall.
Measure the distance between the center of both headlight lenses and use this to measure from the center point you just marked on the surface.
Make sure the tire pressures are correct and the tank is full or the calibration may be out. Park the vehicle square with the aiming surface.
Close the doors and rock the car to stabilise the suspension.


Adjustment

Horizontal and vertical aiming is done by moving the adjusting screws which moves the headlamp capsule in relation to the headlamp frame.
The horizontal adjustment screw is located on the inboard side of each of the headlight assemblies and covered by a plug.
The vertical adjustment screw is located on the inboard side of each of the headlight assemblies below the lower edge of the headlamp bezel.
Its a long golden rod. I think it’s a #15 torx.




Raise the hood.
Raise the headlamps.
Remove the headlamp adjustment screw plug from the headlamp bezel. Reach under the headlamp bezel and push out the plug from behind.
Turn ON the low beam lamps. Block the light from the passenger lamp to allow you to adjust the drivers lamp. Don’t cover the headlight or it may get too hot.
Inspect the horizontal aim. Make the adjustments with reference to the lines and numbers on the aiming chart below
Adjust the aim using the horizontal adjusting screw, to align the break point (3) of the high intensity zone to the headlamp vertical centerline (1), within the
range of 38 mm (1.5 in) to the left (5) of the lamp vertical centerline (1), to 38 mm (1.5 in) to the right (4) of the lamp vertical centerline (1) on the aiming screen.




Inspect the vertical aim.

Adjust the aim using the vertical adjusting screw, to align the upper edge of the beam horizontal cut off line 114 mm (4.5 in) below (7) the headlamp
horizontal centerline (2), within the range of 76 mm (3 in) below (8) the lamp horizontal centerline (2), to 191 mm (7.5 in) below (6) the lamp horizontal
centerline (2) on the aiming screen.


Install the headlamp adjustment screw plug. Push to secure.
Turn OFF the headlamps.
Lower the hood.

Your light pattern should look roughly like this when you’re done.

 
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Well, please don't get angry as I know you are just spreading the knowledge of our cars, but we do not allow links to other Corvette forums. Is there any way you could post the information?
 
In my research of HID's when I was considering converting a vehicle over, I learned a few interesting things about them. To do a proper conversion, the light housings need to either be changed to projectors, or new cut-off lenses need to be installed if using a reflector system. The old halogen lenses don't work well with the HID's, as you end up with the light scattering everywhere and producing tons of glare (blinding oncoming traffic). What cut-off lenses do is prevent the light from shining too high up, but allow you to aim the lights higher to get the light farther down the road.
 

You are probably correct with you research info. Since I installed my lights I have driven a few times at night. I actually had my buddy drive my Vette and I drove my DD to-wards the vette to see if the New HID were blinding oncoming drivers. They were bright but not disturbing at all. I have yet to have an oncoming driver flash their lights at me.
All I know is that they are light years ahead of the crappy headlights on the C5.
 

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