Any input from you guys would be appreciated! Looking to wire up my amplifier in the trunk area of my C5. I am hoping I wont need to run a ground from the engine compartment. If I have to no biggie,just trying to save some work and have less wires running under the plastic. Thanks in advance.
Ground Location??
- Thread starter C5Howie
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- #2
I believe there's a stock grounding bolt under the plastic trim on the pillar at the rear edge of the door. Maybe a foot or so up from the floor on the inside. Perhaps the mounting bolt @ the rear of the passenger seat??
Can you ground your amp to that bolt that holds the rear middle compartment to the frame. Just going to do some testing to see if the ground capabilities of that location,seems to be the best spot seeing that I want to put the amp int the cargo area under the sub floor.
Can you ground your amp to that bolt that holds the rear middle compartment to the frame. Just going to do some testing to see if the ground capabilities of that location,seems to be the best spot seeing that I want to put the amp int the cargo area under the sub floor.
My advicen as experienced during years of the audio pass time, is to run the ground back to the battery... Especially in these cars...
A questionable ground can cause issues with the stereo drawing far too much current and the amp(s) getting hot quickly. The ground should also be run on the opposite site of the car than the power feed. Also... For any stereo application I heavily recomment upgrading the batter power cable from the alternator and the grounds for both the battery and alternator to at least 0 gauage wiring. The puny (in some cases) 10 gauge factory wiring is certainly suited for any type serisous current draw but even a a 400 watt amp (which isn't especially powerful) can draw up to 40 amps (40%) of the alternators available current.
The last thing also want in these cars would be battery voltage drop due to an inefficient charging systems. Also... I could get into more detail but stay away from capacitors... They increase the load on your charging system.
Best of luck...
T
[mob][/mob]
A questionable ground can cause issues with the stereo drawing far too much current and the amp(s) getting hot quickly. The ground should also be run on the opposite site of the car than the power feed. Also... For any stereo application I heavily recomment upgrading the batter power cable from the alternator and the grounds for both the battery and alternator to at least 0 gauage wiring. The puny (in some cases) 10 gauge factory wiring is certainly suited for any type serisous current draw but even a a 400 watt amp (which isn't especially powerful) can draw up to 40 amps (40%) of the alternators available current.
The last thing also want in these cars would be battery voltage drop due to an inefficient charging systems. Also... I could get into more detail but stay away from capacitors... They increase the load on your charging system.
Best of luck...
T
[mob][/mob]
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks! Was just at my local stereo shop and they said the same thing, recommended running the ground back to the battery. Another question is where should I run the RCA cable in respect to the power and ground?
The RCA should in a perfect world go down the center of the car in my opinion. If not get well shielded ones (NOT cheap) and run them with the ground. Caps store voltage BUT... Think of it as a second battery. How could having a second battery HELP the charging system? They are a controversy but I highly recommend staying away and getting your charging system in order. Let me know if you need anything else.
[mob][/mob]
[mob][/mob]
no prob... what size amp(s) and type(s) are you running? Even though your amp may be most likely fused, dont' forget to fuse it at the battery also...
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- #9
Ya! I know all the basics. JL audio 500-1. Just havent done a vette before. And I heard about isolating the wires but never did,and honestly I never had a problem. But if this is the way of the lords than so be it,what would a potential problem be? Thanks
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Nice little amp... was just curious that it wasn't sooo large. You should be golden with a single run of 4 guage power from the battery and 4 gauge return. I wouldn't go any bigger if that's all your going to run. Bigger just means more $$$ and harder to bend. I used to use welding cable actually LOL but then again... that was a LITTLE more power hahahaha
I love stealth installs but just make sure the amp gets a cirulation of air if you're going that route. I assume you're using the little "well" in the back for your sub... that area only really accomodates about 1m3 enclosure so if you haven't already done so, please make sure that the sub is designed to run in that size enclosure. The enclosure design has way more to do with the sound quality than the sub itself!!! Let me know if you need any help... make sure to subtract the volume of the sub itself in determining the enclosure size.
There are a LOT of bangin' 8" subs that will roast a 10 or 12 in the right enclosure
just a thought!!!
I love stealth installs but just make sure the amp gets a cirulation of air if you're going that route. I assume you're using the little "well" in the back for your sub... that area only really accomodates about 1m3 enclosure so if you haven't already done so, please make sure that the sub is designed to run in that size enclosure. The enclosure design has way more to do with the sound quality than the sub itself!!! Let me know if you need any help... make sure to subtract the volume of the sub itself in determining the enclosure size.
There are a LOT of bangin' 8" subs that will roast a 10 or 12 in the right enclosure
just a thought!!!- Thread starter
- #11
There are a LOT of bangin' 8" subs that will roast a 10 or 12 in the right enclosure just a thought!!!
I have the JL audio 8W7 to go along with the 500-1,and I am using a sealed box 14 in. x 10 in. x 16.75 in.,the box is small enough for quick removal if needed,I dont want to loose the enormous trunk as this was a big factor on my decision to go with a vette(hatch back) me and the wife like to throw the 2 man tent in the back and dissapear north on accasion! Actually I am insatalling the amp in the cargo well,I am not too worried about heat as this amp never really got hot in the last car I ran it in.
I have the JL audio 8W7 to go along with the 500-1,and I am using a sealed box 14 in. x 10 in. x 16.75 in.,the box is small enough for quick removal if needed,I dont want to loose the enormous trunk as this was a big factor on my decision to go with a vette(hatch back) me and the wife like to throw the 2 man tent in the back and dissapear north on accasion! Actually I am insatalling the amp in the cargo well,I am not too worried about heat as this amp never really got hot in the last car I ran it in.
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LOL great minds....
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- #13
Just added a 4g wire from the alternator to the battery,the ground from battery to frame I did when I re done all GMs flimsy excuses for ground circuits. Now I am just waiting for the integration module,than I will finish the installation on the head unit.
Cool!!! Refreshing to see it done right and then have someone saying that they're having issues with the lights dimming and the amps getting hot LOL
I've seen optimas fit... depends what you want to spend...
For what ur running, you don't need to upgarde just for the stereo... unless you need one anyhow
absolutely... i've seen more than 1 frozen solid 