DCT Filter change

[happy]

Can someone please advise-if you have added 2 qts trans fluid for track use, when you change the filter, do you lose the 2 quarts.
I figure you likely do ( by deduction) but want factual confirmation.
just trying to plan out maintenance. 1700 kms and it is resting in the garage. Figure I will get 2400 k on it, take in for oil change, Dct filter change and add 2 qts trans fluid
Then go play

 

[Murray20c8]

Can someone please advise-if you have added 2 qts trans fluid for track use, when you change the filter, do you lose the 2 quarts.
I figure you likely do ( by deduction) but want factual confirmation.
just trying to plan out maintenance. 1700 kms and it is resting in the garage. Figure I will get 2400 k on it, take in for oil change, Dct filter change and add 2 qts trans fluid
Then go play

No, you lose a little but not even a liter. The filter is not like an oil filter. There are videos on the change on Youtube.

 

[Bizbiz911]

You lose 0.2 litre only.

 

[JVi]

The first DCT filter change is covered in the US.
Still not in Canada?

 

[Murray20c8]

No, but the U.S. only gets one oil change.

 

[Bucketoy]

I'm coming up on my 12,000Km. DCT filter change soon and wondered what the best/easiest way to replace the 0.2L (6 or 7 oz.) of FFL-4 fluid lost due to the canisters initial replacement. I won't be tracking my car so, at a minimum, I just want it filled back to the factory level. I read somewhere that people were adding the 2 litres of DCT fluid (for track use) by jacking their cars up on the drivers side only, effectively tilting the DCT away from the side fill hole. This turned out to be a super easy procedure so I thought I would share, just in case someone want to do it themselves. I also decided after opening a fresh litre of FFL-4 fluid, to put the whole litre in. That should cover me if I do a few more filter changes before draining the whole DCT. Here is what I did...

-Loosen lug nuts on driver rear wheel.
-Following all C8 jacking protocols, I used my 3 ton trolly jack to jack the drivers rear up about 3/4 as high as my trolly jack would go. (Sorry I should have taken a pic or measured but I'd say in was about 20' off the ground in front of the back wheel). The front wheel comes off the ground when you jack the back up. (so cool!)
-Just to be safe, I put one jack stand under the drivers rear lower control arm knuckle, (at the bushing) and one under the drivers front jacking location. lower the jack until the stands just make contact, then lock/leave your jack were it is.
-Remove wheel and find the side fill plug. It can be seen through the drivers rear wheel well.
-I stuffed an old hand towel down below the plug to catch any fluid that might drip, or the plug if dropped after removal. I most certainly did not want to take the belly pans of to retrieve that plug!
-Remove the aluminium plug. It is 17mm so I used the appropriate 6 point socket, attached to a universal (swivel) joint, 24" extension and ratchet, all 3/8 drive. Make sure your 6 point socket is on the plug square and be gentle, everything is soft aluminium! (My aluminium plug has a nice accelerate yellow "O" ring on it).
-I used a funnel with a clear PVC 1/2" I.D. tubing attached to it that I picked up at Princess Auto. The tubing was a little short so I also bought 3' of the same tubing there. Make sure everything is clean! No chemicals!

https://www.princessauto.com/en/measu-funnel/product/PA0008099673

-Hold the tube end in the fill hole while a helper holds the funnel up higher and slowly pour the litre in. I was watching and waiting for it to spill out of the fill hole (hence the old hand towel) but if you tipped your car up high enough, it will all disappear into the DCT. Like I said before, people say they were putting 2 litres in this way so I was pretty sure my 1 litre would go in without any trouble. If in doubt, just add the 6 or 7 ounces you loose when you remove the canister filter.
-Carefully replace the plug! I never found the proper torque spec. for this plug so if someone has it, maybe they could post it here.
-Don't forget to remove your rag or towel if you stuffed one in there. Replace the wheel. Torque those lugs to 140 ft. lbs. remove the jack stands and lower the car.
Took me no more than an hour working slow, and now I'm ready to replace the canister filter when the odometer gets closer to the 12,000km mark. Hoping to find a buddy with a hoist for that one. Lots of belly pan bolts

.

 

[Murray20c8]

I'm coming up on my 12,000Km. DCT filter change soon and wondered what the best/easiest way to replace the 0.2L (6 or 7 oz.) of FFL-4 fluid lost due to the canisters initial replacement. I won't be tracking my car so, at a minimum, I just want it filled back to the factory level. I read somewhere that people were adding the 2 litres of DCT fluid (for track use) by jacking their cars up on the drivers side only, effectively tilting the DCT away from the side fill hole. This turned out to be a super easy procedure so I thought I would share, just in case someone want to do it themselves. I also decided after opening a fresh litre of FFL-4 fluid, to put the whole litre in. That should cover me if I do a few more filter changes before draining the whole DCT. Here is what I did...

-Loosen lug nuts on driver rear wheel.
-Following all C8 jacking protocols, I used my 3 ton trolly jack to jack the drivers rear up about 3/4 as high as my trolly jack would go. (Sorry I should have taken a pic or measured but I'd say in was about 20' off the ground in front of the back wheel). The front wheel comes off the ground when you jack the back up. (so cool!)
-Just to be safe, I put one jack stand under the drivers rear lower control arm knuckle, (at the bushing) and one under the drivers front jacking location. lower the jack until the stands just make contact, then lock/leave your jack were it is.
-Remove wheel and find the side fill plug. It can be seen through the drivers rear wheel well.
-I stuffed an old hand towel down below the plug to catch any fluid that might drip, or the plug if dropped after removal. I most certainly did not want to take the belly pans of to retrieve that plug!
-Remove the aluminium plug. It is 17mm so I used the appropriate 6 point socket, attached to a universal (swivel) joint, 24" extension and ratchet, all 3/8 drive. Make sure your 6 point socket is on the plug square and be gentle, everything is soft aluminium! (My aluminium plug has a nice accelerate yellow "O" ring on it).
-I used a funnel with a clear PVC 1/2" I.D. tubing attached to it that I picked up at Princess Auto. The tubing was a little short so I also bought 3' of the same tubing there. Make sure everything is clean! No chemicals!

https://www.princessauto.com/en/measu-funnel/product/PA0008099673

-Hold the tube end in the fill hole while a helper holds the funnel up higher and slowly pours the in litre. I was watching and waiting for it to spill out of the fill hole (hence the old hand towel) but if you tipped your car up high enough, it will all disappear into the DCT. Like I said before, people say they were putting 2 litres in this way so I was pretty sure my 1 litre would go in without any trouble. If in doubt, just add the 6 or 7 ounces you loose when you remove the canister filter.
-Carefully replace the plug! I never found the proper torque spec. for this plug so if someone has it, maybe they could post it here.
-Don't forget to remove your rag or towel if you stuffed one in there. Replace the wheel. Torque those lugs to 140 ft. lbs. remove the jack stands and lower the car.
Took me no more than an hour working slow, and now I'm ready to replace the canister filter when the odometer gets closer to the 12,000km mark. Hoping to find a buddy with a hoist for that one. Lots of belly pan bolts

.

I'm your buddy! AND I have a 4 post hoist

 

[Bucketoy]

I'm your buddy! AND I have a 4 post hoist

It’s so nice to have buddies.