I have been storing my Vette for over 8 years now and once all the necessary things have been done for storage, I don't start it again till spring. As far as tire pressure goes I add a few pounds of air pressure to tires to make up for lose of air during the winter storage.OK, here's a chance for me to learn a bit more.
I've read all the threads on winter storage (I hope) There are some great tips I picked up. Here are my plans / questions
I'll put it away at the end of this month, oil has been changed and I'll check the tire pressure. What should I have the pressure at for winter storage? The max recommended for the tires?
I bought Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer, not sure if I really need it but it was on sale.
I cleaned and protected the top with RaggTopp, also the weatherstripping with Einszett Rubber Care Stick Gummi Pflege (mouthful and a half)
I'll give the exterior and interior a good clean this weekend making sure everything is dry before putting it away.
I'm also going to get a CTEK 3300 3.3A battery charger.
CTEK Multi-use 3300 3.3A Battery Charger | Canadian Tire
Is this OK?
Also, I was thinking of starting the car about every two weeks, probably more for me than the car, let it run at a quick idle, if sunny put it in the driveway. Make sense or not?
I've read a lot of pros and cons about tires flat spotting, I thought this was only a problem with bias tires? If anyone can enlighten me I'd appreciate it.
As I have used up my quota of questions for this week i'll just say "thank you" and be on my way.
So many vette owners do so many different things for winter storage. I myself have always stored my corvettes in heated storage which makes a huge difference. First a good wash then remove oil filter and let oil drain while waxing and a full interior clean. Install oil filter put in Mobil 1 synthetic oil wipe down engine compartment add fuel stabilizer than run car for 15 minutes. Make sure tires are at the right psi, visually check under carriage for leaks etc. A lift makes this a bonus, disconnect negative cable only and do not close hood tight. Put indoor car cover on then start process all over again with my son in law on his 74. O and of course a few brews for a job well done!I have been storing my Vette for over 8 years now and once all the necessary things have been done for storage, I don't start it again till spring. As far as tire pressure goes I add a few pounds of air pressure to tires to make up for lose of air during the winter storage.
Bourbon....The act of putting the Vette to sleep requires a minimum alcohol content of 40%. Minimum....I pretty much do what Wayneo7Z51 does, but then I shed a few tears as I close the light in the garage....knowing that springtime is a long way off! I guess that's what the beer is for!
My great friend is Captain Morgan. HahahaYou must know my friends Jim Beam, Ezra Brooks, Jack Daniels, and his distant cousin Johnny Walker!
non of the links work for me..Asked for and delivered!
Please post the method you use for storing your car.
A couple threads to look at dealing with C5's and C6's.
http://www.canadiancorvetteforums.com/forums/c5-forum/1812-winter-storage-tips.html#post15394
http://www.canadiancorvetteforums.com/forums/c6-forum/1788-ideas-needed-storing-my-c6.html
And for those of you that wish to keep your battery hooked up to your car all winter:
http://www.canadiancorvetteforums.com/forums/c6-forum/1808-battery-storage.html
The links are probably dead. That post was from 11 years ago.... Top of each of the post windows shows the posting date.non of the links work for me..
If my garage is not heated. wouldn`t it be better to take the battery out to a warmer place so it wont freeze (like the basement) and connect it to a tender there?Storage, keep it simple, I usually use up a whole day.
1. Change oil and filter. Oil tends to hold acids and other crap
during a season of operation. You do not want your engine sitting it that.
Also grease all ball joint and tie rod fittings.
2. Pull the rims and really clean out the old brake dust. Its acidic and will eat into your rims. Have a look at your brakes at the same time, they can wait until spring but at least you'll know. Also with the rims off you get a good chance to clean up the suspension and engine.
3. Fill with Gas and add stabilizer. Modern fuels will "gum up" after a short while, stabilizer prevents this.
4. You can bump tire pressure, but even if you don't radials will not flat spot.
5. Check the anti freeze it should be good for at least -30.
6. Oil up door hinges and hood hinges and head lights at the pivots.
7. Treat leather seats with a good quality treatment.
8. Treat all interior surfaces, use silicone on all of the rubber seals
9. Add dryer sheets to keep the mice out.
10. Wash and wax it
11. Connect on a Battery Minder, not a battery charger.
12. Cover it, hopefully in a garage, and forget it until spring. Periodic starting does no good, it allows moisture to build up in the oils and exhaust system.
13. Well don't really forget about it, go out every once in a while and just have a look or sit in it. It won't cure the itch in January, but it will help.
I just put mine away today, I'll probably give it a peek and a sit in a week or so.
Good Luck
Some do the battery removal.If my garage is not heated. wouldn`t it be better to take the battery out to a warmer place so it wont freeze (like the basement) and connect it to a tender there?
Whats this you say, my good man? A British Car that starts after storage...inconceivable!!I know a guy who stored his C7 outside for one winter due to special circumstances. I helped him prepare it and among other things he connected the standard issue battery tender for the duration. The car sat under a cover for 5 months through deep cold and snow. Come spring, the charger was removed, the battery measured full charge and the car started perfectly.
Imagine this - the wife wants her XT5 in the garage for the winter! So due to only having 2 garage slots, I store my precious baby 1979 MGB in an unheated warehouse which reaches the same temperature as outdoors in Ottawa. The battery is not on a tender. Come spring, I remove the plugs and spin the engine until the oil pressure hits 50 psi. Reinstall the plugs and start the car. The battery does all that without the charge being maintained for 5 months. I always bring a jumper battery just in case, but have only used it once (spring 2021) in 18 years. Decided the battery served me well and replaced it this summer.
Well it does always start after storage but ... don't ask about the Lucas electricsWhats this you say, my good man? A British Car that starts after storage...inconceivable!!
I am with you on the fun to drive. I went through a 68 BSA 441, and Dad had a 66 Sunbeam Alpine, now my son has them both. Lucas Electrics...Inventors of Darkness.Well it does always start after storage but ... don't ask about the Lucas electrics. It also has very bad manners with dripping oil on friend's driveways when visiting. Just can't teach an old Brit car to hold it's oil. However she is a lot of fun to drive, especially on the gravel roads around eastern Ottawa. Can't do that with the C7 without worrying about paint damage.
My Dad was Scottish as well, didn't become a racer but was a wiz at mechanical things. We used to refer to the Shop manual for the BSA, and laugh. It basically said, put it together...and...if it doesn't work its your fault.Ah yes, my father was a Scottish immigrant and became a champion dirt track and scrambles rider in the Montreal area. His attitude was, if a British bike doesn't leak oil there is something wrong with it!
Nice that 3 generations had the Alpine.
I am on a farm and have numerous equipment with batteries on tenders without heated storage. In my experience, a charged battery will not freeze. My tractor has a 10 year old battery, my ATV has a 14 year old battery, skidsteer, hunting truck, etc. etc.... and all of them start every time and work fine all year long. Taking the batteries out to a heated storage is fine but in my experience, unnecessary. The tender is the battery saver.If my garage is not heated. wouldn`t it be better to take the battery out to a warmer place so it wont freeze (like the basement) and connect it to a tender there?
I have been doing the same thing since about 1972 except that I like to change the oil and filter in the fall and put the car away with fresh oil in the engine and on all the wear surfaces. One thing we never do is eat anything while in the car. The smallest crumbs can get into the seats and carpet. Mice can smell the smallest of crumbs and go chewing and digging for them. They will nest in the head liner as well. We bought a 1969 Chevelle in 1997 and it had the worst mouse infestation imaginable. The whole interior had to be removed, repaired, sprayed down and put back together, including a new headliner, seat padding and such.Well then...
For my '73
Fuel up
Wash
Pull into Garage
Clean Inside
Disconnect Battery
Add scented dryer sheets everywhere (for mice)
Throw a bar of Irich Spring in rear compartment (for mice)
Newer car cover first
Older car cover on top of that (protects from my guard cat)
Piece of cardboard under tranny (it drips oil a bit)
Then wait for spring!
P.S. I do my oil change first thing in the spring.
T
I've found the C-Tek charger-maintainers to be excellent units and use them on the three vehicles and two lawn tractors that we store every winter.I agree with not starting the car over the winter unless it is a nice day and you can go for a drive. My worry is the heat in the engine will just cause excess condensation to form inside the engine as it cools.....unless this too is just a myth. For peace of mind, take some video of your car running as this will help with the winter blues...sort of.
As for tires, 40psi looks the same as 30 so it's not like the tire profile is different with what is sitting on the ground. I have not heard of problems with flat spotting since radials came in and have not had problems with mine.
I have a CTEK 3300 and it works well.
The only other thing I would add to the clean up list is to put a good leather conditioner on the seats.