AFM valves stuck open after installing new Borla Exhaust Atak

[opacheco]

Hi all,

I recently had a Borla Atak installed on my C7 Z51 now throws a check engine light, I plugged my computer and it says actuator (AFM) valves stuck open
I reset the code and worked good for about 2 hours, I shut the car off and restarted it the check engine light came on again
Has anyone had this issue, how did you get it fixed..................thanks

 

[Rruuff Day]

Hi all,

I recently had a Borla Atak installed on my C7 Z51 now throws a check engine light, I plugged my computer and it says actuator (AFM) valves stuck open
I reset the code and worked good for about 2 hours, I shut the car off and restarted it the check engine light came on again
Has anyone had this issue, how did you get it fixed..................thanks

@tyho is likely going to have some experience with the AFM and exhaust mods. He will no doubt chime in here with his wisdom.

 

[opacheco]

@tyho is likely going to have some experience with the AFM and exhaust mods. He will no doubt chime in here with his wisdom.

Thanks Rruuff.................hope tyho can help me out

 

[tyho]

Thanks Rruuff.................hope tyho can help me out

I sent you a pm. You can repost it on the forum if others have similar issues.

 

[tyho]

@tyho is likely going to have some experience with the AFM and exhaust mods. He will no doubt chime in here with his wisdom.
Thank you. Now I feel very important. Will do

 

[tyho]

I’m not a mechanic so my advice is based on my experience and research. Hope it helps.

 

[opacheco]

I’m not a mechanic so my advice is based on my experience and research. Hope it helps.

Thanks I'll give it a try tomorrow and keep you guys posted..................thanks for the help

 

[opacheco]

Thanks Guys for all your feedback
I got it working thank god
I pulled the mufflers out this morning and removed the AFM modules and notice the valves on the pipe are very stiff, I played with the pipe valves back and forth for a while until they weren't to stiff, I applied a bit of Synthetic Grease on the spring
I put back the AFM Modules and also played back and forth with the valves with the modules on it until it went back to its position
Plugged my computer to the OBDII module reset the engine light and the computer had access to module and I was able to open and close the valves with the computer with out the engine running, it worked fine it open and closed the valves, I put everything back went for a drive and it seems to be working fine now.........................Thanks Everyone for your support.

 

[tyho]

Thanks Guys for all your feedback
I got it working thank god
I pulled the mufflers out this morning and removed the AFM modules and notice the valves on the pipe are very stiff, I played with the pipe valves back and forth for a while until they weren't to stiff, I applied a bit of Synthetic Grease on the spring
I put back the AFM Modules and also played back and forth with the valves with the modules on it until it went back to its position
Plugged my computer to the OBDII module reset the engine light and the computer had access to module and I was able to open and close the valves with the computer with out the engine running, it worked fine it open and closed the valves, I put everything back went for a drive and it seems to be working fine now.........................Thanks Everyone for your support.

Glad it worked out.

 

[Fast Boat Guy]

Hi there.
how have things been going with this? Is this still working? No light?
I have installed aftermarket exhaust, and have the same issue. Was this all you had to do? Remove the valves, and work them back and forth? What would cause this? My car only has 2,000K on it, I would not think there could be a problem with them.
thanks for any updates.

 

[tyho]

Hi there.
how have things been going with this? Is this still working? No light?
I have installed aftermarket exhaust, and have the same issue. Was this all you had to do? Remove the valves, and work them back and forth? What would cause this? My car only has 2,000K on it, I would not think there could be a problem with them.
thanks for any updates.

Once you remove the mufflers just work the valves back and forth, maybe with vise grips and apply some heat tolerant lubricant. The springs may be a little sticky and the actuators don't have enough power to properly move the flaps inside the pipe. If this doesn't work, contact the manufacturer as they may have another option. Make sure the electrical connection to the actuators is tight.

 

[Fast Boat Guy]

Ok. Thank you.
I will try that.
thanks again!

 

[Fast Boat Guy]

Does the exhaust system have to be removed to access the valves? Or can it be done on the car, on a hoist???

 

[tyho]

Can be done on a hoist, just disconnect the actuator from the spring valve.

 

[Fast Boat Guy]

Ok.
thanks a million for all the info!

 

[Fast Boat Guy]

Another AFM valve question.
I got under the car today to check on these, and to see if they were stuck or locked up.
turns out, mine are not installed in the new exhaust system. They have been removed from the exhaust and zip tied up out of the way. I have seen this on other. What my question is, I see that there are three (3) of them under there. Two on the drivers side, one on the passenger side. What is the third one for?
I have ordered the AWE plates to install, but o believe they only come in a pair.
what is the third one for?
Any ideas??
Thanks.

 

[tyho]

That's odd. There should be 2 AFM valves and 2 NPP valves. The NPP are near the tips of the mufflers. The actuators are the small black plastic looking mechanisms near the valves. Maybe one of the NPP actuators have been lost. No harm done but the AFM actuator removal will cause a CEL to go on, unless there is a resistor source that matches the resistor in the actuator.

 

[Fast Boat Guy]

Ok, that makes sense.
so, the ones for the NPP look the same as the AFM?
my new exhaust systems uses a vacuum operated system to open and close the NPP, so would not use the factory ones.
you are probably right, and one of the factory NPP ones has been lost.
I will look again to see if I can find the plug/wire where it should have been. I would think that I would at least see the zip ties where it was. They should have still been there if the valve fell off I would think.
the one AFM valve was “stuck” in one position and would not move, even tho it is not attached to the exhaust in any way. I took it off, and was able to free it up so it will turn easier now, with the same resistance as the one on the opposite side.
I am still getting an engine light, I have ordered the simulator plates to install on my AFM valves, hopefully that will get rid of the light issue.
thanks again for the info, much appreciated.

 

[tyho]

Yes, all 4 actuators look the same. They each operate the valves, which are inside the exhaust pipes and the 2 NPP valves inside the muffler tips, one on each side. You can disconnect the NPP actuators from their electrical connection (just make sure you wrap the wire ends nicely to keep water and dirt out of the connector) if you remove the NPP fuse, without causing a CEL or any other issues. Since your NPP valves are vacuum operated, you don't need the actuators. Zip tie the wire ends away from the heat of the exhaust. Do you know the code the CEL is indicating? What are simulator plates? The AFM valves are inside the exhaust pipe leading to the mufflers. You will need the AFM valves to operate unless your car has been tuned to bypass the 4 cylinder mode. Without the AFM valves working, the 4 cylinder mode sounds terrible.

 

[Fast Boat Guy]

My car has not been tuned to remove 4cyl.
the simulator plates are made by a different exhaust company. AWE. they are just plates that bolt onto the AFM valve to only allow the valve to move so far, back and forth. It gives the valve a “stop point” like it would if the valve was installed into the exhaust pipe.
I will see if I can find a picture of it and upload it here.