Riley P

Staff member
Power User
Jan 11, 2009
2000 Z51
Just a quick question on a C5 6-speed tranny.
My car is a 2000 and the only reason I bring this up is that the blocker rings are suppose to be different in 2001 and later (Paper in 97-00 as opposed to CF?). What is a blocker ring and how does this affect the transmission fluid I wish to use? I heard that I should NOT run synthetic fluid with paper blocker rings. Any truth to that?

Secondly, I have a B&M shifter which may account for some of the following, but after I purchased my car, I noticed that first gear was loud, not really loud, but I could hear it more than the others, is this normal? Is it because I have an aftermarket shifter that the noise of the transmission is more easily transmitted to the cabin?

Thirdly, the throws are super short with the B&M (at least I think they are). I have had issues where I think I have the car in first, but it is only half way into first and when I go to take off, BANG, it pops out of gear. I can't tell you how much I LOVE when that happens. And other times it's a bit of a fight to get the car into second gear, not always, but just on occasion.
Are these products of the transmission or the shifter, that they are stiff? Does anyone else deal with this ever? Is my transmission looking to relieve itself of it's duties in the near future?
I know that some of it is just getting use to how the shifter feels and getting practice as the half way into first thing drops of significantly as I drive the car and know where first is as opposed to half into first.
BTW, I bought a white Hurst shift knob for my car because when I was a kid, my dad's '65 had a white Hurst knob in his car. I am very surprised that even though it is just a piece of plastic, the shifting feel is WAY better as it gets rid of the squishy numbing feel of the stock knob.
Riley my car is 100% the same, the first gear pop out grind is always a crowd favorate!! ( it always seems to happen when I have an audience)plus I also love when I am unable to get second to slide in.

I have a feeling that I need some trany work done there is the odd grinding in to 4th at high revs and 6th at high revs that I understand is attributed to the( i cant think of the name) anyway the trany shop next door says nothing to be too concerned about but to remember that the more it grinds the more damage it does. But they were talking in the 2-3 grand mark to get it all rebuilt, if thats the case I will wait I think.


P.S. the second gear thing is the 1st to 4th solinoid trying to kick your shifter over, dont shift untill your revs are high enough that the dash light goes out and the problem is gone.
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hmmmm I'll trade you for an answer for my tranny problem??? LOL

It seems to all be a similar "group" of issues related to these t56's from the reading that i've done although there doesn't seem to be absolutely ANY sold answers or reasons for any of the issues specifically.

I'll keep you posted but sounds like you need a rebuilt and upgraded tranny rebuild... 2-3 grand seems to be the going rate but a clutch should be added and depending on mileage, a $500 flywheel too. I just had mine machined due to the low mileage.

Sorry dude.

p.s. I'm almost leaning towards recommending a high performance tranny rebuild shop out of the US compared to what is most likely a knowledgeable BUT not EXPERT t56 tranny repair shop. I don't have my car back yet and if there are any problems with it, you're liable to read about what happened in the national newspapers argh!!!
Tranny rebuild? Yuck! I am using the knowledge that the transmission/clutch is stock to keep from wanting to do any real engine mods. If the tranny got rebuilt with a proper clutch...I could never afford what I wanted to do.:D
Riley, never use synthetic in the tranny's-it's the worst thing you could do to tranny. Best fluid I found was GM syncromesh or just straight Dexron/Mercron 5.

Now when you installed the shifter you have to very sure you got the rod engagement right. Basically on the front of the shifter there should of been a small pin. When you put the B&M in you have to put that pin in before you tighten the shifter down-then pull the pin out-the pin insures your rod is in the perfect position and the gate is in neutral.
Prievious owner had a shop install the shifter. I guess I could always take a road trip back to Vegas to ask them how they installed it. Haha. Very good to know about the Trans Fluid. I am going to change mine in the spring.

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