Pre-body drop preparations for a 67 Coupe?

Jcpstrat

Jcpstrat

Regular
You're 5
Mar 19, 2016
208
329
Georgetown, Kentucky 40324, USA
VetteCoins
4,613
Car
1967 Coupe
The body shop that is doing body work and paint wants me transfer the body from it’s original rusted out frame to the replacement rolling frame that I have ready to go. They want to do this so they can make sure all the door gaps etc. are right before they do the final prep & painting. I like this too because I would hate to mess up a new paint job in the process of doing that transfer and they've insured me it will be masked off to not get paint on the frame or in engine compartment. The body has already been test fitted to the replacement frame before it went to the shop, just to insure there wouldn’t be any surprises and that all looked fine.

My question is since the body is completely stripped (essentially just a fiberglass shell, except for door latches, strikers & radiator support), what are the essential items that need to be installed on the body before it is mounted back on the replacement frame? Either because they would impossible or very hard to install after body is mounted to frame.

My short list is:

Throttle linkage on the firewall side & inside gas pedal hdwr.
Seat-belt & seat reinforcements and safety straps
Shift boot plate under fiberglass tunnel area (riveted in)
Tunnel insulation
Engine & body wiring
Antenna wiring
Front & rear light wiring
Windshield wiper motor & wiring
AC body mounted components

Also, the radiator support is currently installed in the body (for front end stability). Should I keep it in the body for the body drop and then install the AC condenser & radiator or is there another better way?

All advice/thoughts would be appreciated!
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2KforeverC5, YFCvii and Rruuff Day
On my 65 I replaced the fuel line and brake lines before I dropped the body on to it. Do you have a factory assembly manual? I bought one of those and it was enormously helpful in getting the things done in the order that the factory did. I would leave the radiator mount in it if it would clear the engine and I think it will.
 
  • Informative
  • Like
Reactions: Rruuff Day, Jcpstrat and ddgermann
After careful review of the Assembly Manual I believe it is a very good guide for assembly order as long as you realize that all the Options are located at the very back of the manual. For instance, when you get to installing the Heater & Blower Asm. & hoses on the firewall, the next 2 pages have you installing the inside Dash Mats, Insulators & Instrumental Panel Pad etc.. If your car has the C60 option (factory AC), you have to know to jump to that option at the back of the manual first, install all of those related items before you come back to the Dash Mats, Insulators & Instrumental Panel Pad etc parts or you'll be doing some back tracking. There's no notes that I see to tell you to jump to the C60 option so if you're working on any areas that an option can be installed ... check for that option in the back before continuing. Just my two cents worth but a big THANK YOU to widmandon again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2KforeverC5, ddgermann and Rruuff Day
Thanks RockyPM ... I ran through the info. you linked. Lots of good stuff and I believe the body/paint shop & I are following most of that quite well. The only real difference is they will be painting the body while on the finished frame. I took them the body on the original frame just to insure they didn't get paint on the restored frame & drivetrain but they're concerned about making sure all the gaps stay right when it's married to the different frame. They've assured me all the finished areas relating to rolling frame will be masked off. My job right now is making a list of everything that needs to be installed on the body before it's dropped on the replacement frame and I did get more good tips from that article.
 
  • Agree
  • Like
Reactions: 2KforeverC5, RockyPM and ddgermann
Yesterday the body shop set me this pic of it after they got it in primer .... getting closer!
7371.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2KforeverC5, Hotrodron, ddgermann and 5 others
Thanks T ... it's been a long project as I pulled it into my garage in October of 2014 ... but I'm starting to get excited. Those tires were actually never used on this Vette. The original frame was so rusted out had to look for a replacement frame. I found a good rolling frame that had those big tires on it (I suspect it may have been a drag car), and the tires on the replacement frame were better than what was on the original frame so I just stuck them on it for rolling around purposes. The new tires shouldn't be a problem (I hope).

Here a pic from Oct 2014 as I was dragging it out of where it was parked. If you look close at back wheels you can see they were making skid marks due to tires not turning ... they were locked up solid. Also if you look close the wheel wells have been cut out. I was worried the differential was blown but it turned out the disc brake pads had frozen to the brake rotors. It's been a long haul bringing this tired '67 back! :)
IMG_5093.JPG
 
  • Like
Reactions: ddgermann
I'm hoping it will be worth it but also realize once the car is painted and I get it back there will still be a lot of work to finish it off. Hopefully I'll get it drivable before the weather gets too bad and don't have to wait until spring. Do you have any threads on the forum with pics of your project or links? Is it going to be a reconditioning, restoration or custom? Leaving tom. on a 15 day vacation so with only my phone don't know if I'll be able to give this tread much attention.
 
Update on progress: Here’s some pics of recent activity of transferring body onto the replacement frame once all the main body work was done. This is so they can finalize door alignment and gaps prior to finishing/painting. Body drop went good and weather permitting it’s heading back to body shop this coming week. Yeah!!! Hopefully it will be derivable for summer.
Lifting body off original frame.
20181119_141944.jpg

Lowing body onto replacement frame.
20181201_141257.jpg

Ready for a trip back to paint shop this coming week.
20181204_063025.jpg

Here’s the order of installing items on the body so far. I’m not saying this is the best or only way but just a reference for anyone else doing this type of operation. I’ll continue the list for finishing the car out once it comes back from paint shop and will point out anything that didn't work out as planned, with order of installing.

With body off of frame:
  • Install wiper motor
  • Install engine compartment J-hooks
  • Install shift plate (retainer) under fiberglass tunnel area
  • Install tunnel insulation
  • Install floor plugs
  • Install seat & seatbelt reinforcements and safety straps
  • Install throttle linkage under firewall
  • Install dust covers in engine comp.
  • Install front grille brackets
  • Install access panel fasteners to access panel
  • Install access panel seal to access panel
  • Install battery access panel to driver side wheel well
  • Install interior reinforcement behind seats
  • Apply undercoat in fender wells
  • Install Inner Splash Shield Mount Bracket on pass side
  • Install ground strap @ throttle linkage location
  • Install A/C compressor
  • Prep rolling frame for body drop (remove battery & battery tray)
With body within a few inches of frame mounting pads:
  • Install body mounts & shims but don't torque
Install body on replacement rolling frame, then:
  • Connect Seat Safety Straps to frame
  • Check clearance between the cross member and the floor for > 5/8" clearance for new 5 spd transmission. OK
  • Torque body mounts
  • Center gas tank & tighten bolts
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: 2KforeverC5, 12cents, Rruuff Day and 4 others
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 100 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)
Top Bottom