YFCvii

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Reaching out to my Corvette Circle for advice/recommendation for a Home Standby Generator. Here is a 30A receptacle that our builder built-in to our home.

63F97C7C-883D-4DB7-BEF0-06C809006145.jpeg

Thinking of a GP Series 7500W by Generac but who knows??? This is basically a temporary solution as we wait for a more permanent solution that will take us until next year to completely source.
 
Reaching out to my Corvette Circle for advice/recommendation for a Home Standby Generator. Here is a 30A receptacle that our builder built-in to our home.



Thinking of a GP Series 7500W by Generac but who knows??? This is basically a temporary solution as we wait for a more permanent solution that will take us until next year to completely source.
Hopefully your builder also had a transfer panel installed as well to fool proof isolate the generator power from back feeding into the public supply lines. This is absolutely required to keep power line workers safe when they think there is no power in a line. Anyway... to answer your question... I have the same receptacles installed outside on my house and pumphouse and two 8000 Colemans with 13 hp Honda engines. That's peak starter wattage. Running wattage is about 7250. My house transfer panel is set up to run pretty much everything my electrician felt comfortable that it would run which is really close to the whole house. My furnace, two freezers, kitchen lights and plug ins, microwave (my stove and clothes dryer are both natural gas so not a lot of power draw there), bedroom lights, televisions, etc. I think he left out most of the basement as I have a hundred year old farmhouse with a basically unfinished basement. An electrician should be able to calculate what the 7500 can handle. My only suggestion would be to go with the E model (electric start). Mine aren't and although the Honda engines start easy, they can be stiff to pull the recoil when it's 30 below...lol.. Going with a natural gas model would also save you fueling them up although mine will run on load for about 10 hours, and only once when my power was down for two days, did I ever have to refuel during an outage. Haven't had to use either of them for 3 years but I run them every summer and fresh premium fuel and stabilizer yearly. Hope that helps.
 
For those with portable generators they now make an adapter that goes between the Hydro Meter and the Panel (Meter Base in reality). You simply shut off the breakers in the panel you really don't need to power up and let the generator do its thing (to its capacity). In Ontario, Hydro has to do the work or a licensed and qualified electrician can do the work after hydro shuts down the Line. It may be Generac who makes this adapter. It is the route I would like to take, just run one cable, generator to adapter.
 
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I am installing a Generac 22.5kW overkill but sourcing a transfer switch delays the final install until mid Winter. Just thinking of an temporary solution in the event that a portable is needed. Yes there is a transfer switch in a subpanel that is connect to that 30A plugin … but none of it is wired for my 220v heat needs … argh. The 22.5 Generac will take care of it though.
I wish natural gas was in this new street but nope … 👎🏻
Thank you all for some help in that I need to sustain power for heating this home in New Brunswick as I will be in Alberta most of the time. Real World problem that natural gas would have resolved with a 120v forced air furnace … but so much is going to electricity only already and I am seeing my thoughts about this all already come to life. Mark my words that Electricity only … is not a singular resolve … based on my experience as the advocation for it is coming out of the gate !!!
Here is my 💸 new toy (eventual resolve) that is being installed and waits for the sourcing of an elusive transfer switch … 🙂👍🏻… (propane fuelled)
8093C32D-838D-4E3B-855F-88386D117374.jpeg
 
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Hopefully your builder also had a transfer panel installed as well to fool proof isolate the generator power from back feeding into the public supply lines. This is absolutely required to keep power line workers safe when they think there is no power in a line. Anyway... to answer your question... I have the same receptacles installed outside on my house and pumphouse and two 8000 Colemans with 13 hp Honda engines. That's peak starter wattage. Running wattage is about 7250. My house transfer panel is set up to run pretty much everything my electrician felt comfortable that it would run which is really close to the whole house. My furnace, two freezers, kitchen lights and plug ins, microwave (my stove and clothes dryer are both natural gas so not a lot of power draw there), bedroom lights, televisions, etc. I think he left out most of the basement as I have a hundred year old farmhouse with a basically unfinished basement. An electrician should be able to calculate what the 7500 can handle. My only suggestion would be to go with the E model (electric start). Mine aren't and although the Honda engines start easy, they can be stiff to pull the recoil when it's 30 below...lol.. Going with a natural gas model would also save you fueling them up although mine will run on load for about 10 hours, and only once when my power was down for two days, did I ever have to refuel during an outage. Haven't had to use either of them for 3 years but I run them every summer and fresh premium fuel and stabilizer yearly. Hope that helps.
I bought a Generac 15K from Home Depot when we built a 4500 sq ft house on our cottage property. We also ran the power cables to the Boat House, previously our cottage. We use propane to power the Generac. We used it free of trouble for 15 years before we moved on. Several of our friends installed them later. Of course, we were able to install, during the building of the home. Our electrician had no trouble installing the wiring for the boathouse.
It is so nice when looking at all the dark homes on the other side of the lake and we would be up and running, watching TV etc. Of course, not having to worry about freeze ups in our two homes. Don't think about it, do it, you will be happy campers.
 
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I am installing a Generac 22.5kW overkill but sourcing a transfer switch delays the final install until mid Winter. Just thinking of an temporary solution in the event that a portable is needed. Yes there is a transfer switch in a subpanel that is connect to that 30A plugin … but none of it is wired for my 220v heat needs … argh. The 22.5 Generac will take care of it though.
I wish natural gas was in this new street but nope … 👎🏻
Thank you all for some help in that I need to sustain power for heating this home in New Brunswick as I will be in Alberta most of the time. Real World problem that natural gas would have resolved with a 120v forced air furnace … but so much is going to electricity only already and I am seeing my thoughts about this all already come to life. Mark my words that Electricity only … is not a singular resolve … based on my experience as the advocation for it is coming out of the gate !!!
Here is my 💸 new toy (eventual resolve) that is being installed and waits for the sourcing of an elusive transfer switch … 🙂👍🏻… (propane fuelled)
View attachment 89001
No problem using propane for 15 years, and it is not going away anytime soon. Ha, maybe using a little less in the next century. These people are dreamers and investors in new business's called wind, solar etc. The profits are rolling in all ready.
 
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Many of the “experts” here in “Freddy” agree with an electric (battery) start portable and the “X” series of the Generac … otherwise the “G” series. Either way, a $180 ($300 installed) Surge device on the panel is highly recommended if plugging in electronics (TV & Computers). Surge Protecting a Panel is recommended as it protects the circuit boards in all the appliances and in the modern day furnace too. Food for Thought there. It’s a simple device that I was not permitted to electrocute myself putting it in … so I took the hit of the fully installed price 😇💸

2A4C2D6E-2E90-4203-84A4-0D3B4507C908.jpeg
 
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