Last weekend, I bleed my brakes on my 2011 grand sport using a vacuum pump at the calipers. Now, when I start my car, the brake pedal sink almost to the floor and the brakes feel weird during driving. Any idea what could be wrong?
Question Last weekend, I bleed my brakes on my 2011 grand sport using a vacuum pump at the calipers. Now, when I start my car, the brake pedal sink almost to t
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Could be a couple things... Is the pedal spongy feeling? This is typically a sign of air in the system as air will compress and not transfer the pressure to the calipers... Other cause my be the piston in the master cylinder sticking but it's more likely air. I would try bleeding the system again by gravity only. Watch for air bubbles coming out when someone pumps the pedal and make sure the reservoir doesn't empty in this process as it will introduce more air. I'm not a mechanic but have bled brakes on lots of my vehicles back in the day and very familiar with trapped air...
My wife sits in drivers seat and pumps brake pedal then holds down hard and I bleed each wheel that way. Always worked in the last thirthy plus years. If not married, borrow a friends wife till finished {with the brakes that is}.....
Thanks for all the input I received. A few minutes ago, I ordered a Motive brake bleeder to replace my 20+ years old vacuum bleeder. I have done all my other vehicles for the last 20 years using my vacuum bleeder with no issues but I guess I met my match with the Corvette brake system. I will keep posted with the results once I receive my new bleeder.
I'm generally new to car maintenance, but I bought a vacuum bleeder with hopes of maintaining my boat and Corvette brakes. I had lots of trouble with the vacuum bleeder, specifically pulling air bubbles from what I presume are the threads (this was on my boat trailer). I later found out that this is a very common issue so I dumped the thing. I made a simple one-man bleeder tool using an old soda bottle and some hosing. I ended up having my wife help me out and it was much simpler this way.
I have read though that this method does not bleed the ABS system. I'm not sure how much effect that would have overall. From what I read, you need a special ODB tool to be able to actuate the ABS system to be able to bleed the fluid in there.
I have read though that this method does not bleed the ABS system. I'm not sure how much effect that would have overall. From what I read, you need a special ODB tool to be able to actuate the ABS system to be able to bleed the fluid in there.
Yes, sounds like air in the system. I have been using a Motive pressure bleed system for the past 10 years. It makes bleeding brakes a one man operation that can be done in around and hour. Make sure to replace the tubing after 5 years, it does brake down after time. You will need the correct master cylinder adapter for each vehicle you service. Best of luck, you will love it!
Forgot to mention, also looking in purchasing a scanner that will activate the ABS pump. According to what I am reading, this tool will guarantee better results.
Does anyone know about a good scanner to buy with the ABS bleed feature?
Does anyone know about a good scanner to buy with the ABS bleed feature?
You will most likely have to have the system bled using an OBD analyzer tool. I think it requires an ABS cycle to bleed the ABS pump. (a selection in the OBD diagnostics)
I own and use a Motive pressure bleeder on my cars and customers cars. One bit of advice is not to fill the container with brake fluid. Yes I know it's designed to work that way. Fill the master cylinder and hook the power bleeder up and pump it up to about 15 psi and keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir. I've owned my power bleeder for years and twice after filling the container the hoses, over time, have rotted out and split spewing brake fluid EVERYWHERE! Thing is that the hoses look fine until they blow. Motive sells replacement hose kits but bleeding without filling the container works very well. I use this method all the time successfully.
these work ok, till the thread sealer wears off. Then they suck air back in. Gotta keep re-applying the Teflon sealer. Been dere, done dat
Until the Teflon sealer wears off the threads. Then they suck air back in. Gotta keep re-applying it to ensure air doesn’t leak past.
Been dere, done dat! ;-)
when I use the vacuum bleeder, first, I remove bleeder and put a good amount of grease or anti-seize on the tread to seal the treads before applying vacuum + always close the bleeder screw BEFORE stopping the vacuum so it doesn't pull air back in. The 2 persons method will always be the best. At my shop, when we make a brake fluid flush or repair, we always start the bleedeing with the vacuum but always finish with the help of another technician, he can also provide you on how the pedal feels like.
Google may be, but experience tells me that’s ‘fake news’
once the sealant wears off, that’s it. They suck air back in around the threads. You must keep reapplying Teflon sealant. No biggie, but that’s fact
My brakes never done bleed from the day when GM make the carGoogle may be, but experience tells me that’s ‘fake news’
once the sealant wears off, that’s it. They suck air back in around the threads. You must keep reapplying Teflon sealant. No biggie, but that’s fact
...but lam going to do it when lput my C6 Z06 brakes in .. here is the explain from the company about how to seal the speed bleeder
My brakes never done bleed from the day when GM make the car
yep…it says to reapply the Teflon sealant.My brakes never done bleed from the day when GM make the car