Dec 21, 2017
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Have not had a need to jack up my C7, and I do have a drive on lift for undercarriage access, but, just wondering how many use the readily available jacking pucks on their cars or use other means/material to place on the rails instead of the 'pucks'. In my simple mind, a low profile jack and a suitably cut piece of 2x4 should serve just as well.... am I missing something here? I was just about to order a set of pucks but woukd be interested on your POV's Thanks
 
Paul, I use hockey pucks to lift mine. I have a set of shallow ramps as well that allows me to get past the air dam and lift the car off the engine cradle.

Graham, NASCAR 03, has posted pics of the pucks he puts together with anchor bolts from any good hardware store. Maybe send him a pm and he can show you how to put them together. Save you a bunch of money, four pucks and the bolts is about $10 provided you buy the ones with no team logo on them. Add the Leafs logo and you are looking at maybe a grand.:Biggrin:
 
In my case, the extended side skirts are so low that you cant see under the car so using a jacking puck does help me. Also, the jacking puck make sure you dont touch any part of the body with the saddle of the jack. A hockey puck will do the job to, you can also built some yourself. Cant remember who exactly post some pictures of home made puck, simple and very cost effective. I am sure someone will chime in with the answer. Still, if you dont want to do it yourself, I find this to be a cheap insurance policy to prevent damages.to rocker panel or floor pan. Just buy them, put them in a box, wrap it then writ on the card "from me.....to me"

PS: there are two available height, make sure you pick the one that will fit between the jack and the frame

Stephane :Cheers2:
 
Paul, I use hockey pucks to lift mine. I have a set of shallow ramps as well that allows me to get past the air dam and lift the car off the engine cradle.

Graham, NASCAR 03, has posted pics of the pucks he puts together with anchor bolts from any good hardware store. Maybe send him a pm and he can show you how to put them together. Save you a bunch of money, four pucks and the bolts is about $10 provided you buy the ones with no team logo on them. Add the Leafs logo and you are looking at maybe a grand.:Biggrin:

That funny Wayne, you where probably posting in the same time as I did
 
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Graham
 
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Thanks for all your responses and for the pics from nascar03. I'll dig out some hockey pucks and ensure they clear the mounting of the side skirts and fab some..... one more question since I have your attention. The caliper foam protectors, is the paint on the calipers so 'fragile' that they require the padding while removing wheels? :Confused5: I have not yet to chipped any paint on any calipers on my cars.
 
Thanks for all your responses and for the pics from nascar03. I'll dig out some hockey pucks and ensure they clear the mounting of the side skirts and fab some..... one more question since I have your attention. The caliper foam protectors, is the paint on the calipers so 'fragile' that they require the padding while removing wheels? :Confused5: I have not yet to chipped any paint on any calipers on my cars.

@SN-III this ones yours Spence.
 
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@SN-III this ones yours Spence.
I am not aware of caliper paint protectors which may then apply to everyone ...
I do know that if you have ceramic rotors, there are protectors that you want to keep handy and be used for any service involving the removal of a wheel.
You do not want to risk dropping a wheel on to a ceramic rotor my mistake ... it would be my hope that every Dealer Corvette Service Tech would know this.
Sadly, I do not think that many Sales Handovers make you aware of this - but the Spring Mountain Corvette Owners School Experience lets you know this and lots more ...
worth every cent of the reduced to US$1000 fee if you can do it :thumbs:
image.jpg
 
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I am not aware of caliper paint protectors which may then apply to everyone ...
I do know that if you have ceramic rotors, there are protectors that you want to keep handy and be used for any service involving the removal of a wheel.
You do not want to risk dropping a wheel on to a ceramic rotor my mistake ... it would be my hope that every Dealer Corvette Service Tech would know this.
Sadly, I do not think that many Sales Handovers make you aware of this - but the Spring Mountain Corvette Owners School Experience lets you know this and lots more ...
worth every cent of the reduced to US$1000 fee if you can do it :thumbs:
View attachment 14912

Thanks Spence, I was thinking they were to protect potential paint chips to the calipers. At least that was my take away from the sales rep. Your explanation makes sense. By the attached pic, it looks like you opted for your (better) home made remedy. Looks like water line foam insulation....smart.
 
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No worries ... this is a "pay-it-forward" thing for me as I actually do not have ceramic rotors ... as this "part" really stuck out with me durng the Spring Mountain hands-on Corvette Orientation Session. We all were able to have a ceramic rotor in one hand and the Z51 rotor in the other ... and did we ever realize the weight difference :Wideyed:.
This ceramic rotor styro-gizmo thing stood out especially as a "part" that essentially looks like recyclable packing material and with the likelihood for the unsuspecting Buyer to not realize its "true value" with the very costly risk that takes place every time a wheel is removed. :nailbiting:
 
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I came up with a slightly different approach and not quite for the same reasons. With the car jacked up I lacked the strength to actually lift the wheel off the hub assembly so I made up a bit of a jig to put in front of the wheel/tire that I can slide it back onto a piece of 2" x 8" that sits right in front of the wheel. I can then sort of walk the wheel back onto the wood platform slide it out then roll it off.

I found that if I could not hold up the wheel the inside barrel of the wheel hit the suspension leaving a scar in the wheel. I have always been able to polish the mark out but it was a PIA. This simple trick eliminates that problem for me.
 
I came up with a slightly different approach and not quite for the same reasons. With the car jacked up I lacked the strength to actually lift the wheel off the hub assembly so I made up a bit of a jig to put in front of the wheel/tire that I can slide it back onto a piece of 2" x 8" that sits right in front of the wheel. I can then sort of walk the wheel back onto the wood platform slide it out then roll it off.

I found that if I could not hold up the wheel the inside barrel of the wheel hit the suspension leaving a scar in the wheel. I have always been able to polish the mark out but it was a PIA. This simple trick eliminates that problem for me.

When a need meets ingenuity a problem gets solved.... Good for you....
 

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