Aug 31, 2023
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Except perhaps for Mr. @Jack Raccoon! we will soon be looking at storage for the winter. Some sooner than later. Came across this today from GM regarding C8 storage. It may have been posted before but for those that haven’t seen it here you are . Some surprising points are made.

 
Not much useful information there. Not to mention the B.S. about the oil life monitor. You can just reset the damn thing in the spring. The oil is virtually unchanged in storage.
The things I noticed were no need to over inflate the tires . Preferably raise the vehicle off the suspension taking the weight off the tires. I have always, as I have mentioned in previous posts, put any vehicle that I have stored up on blocks which is the same as using axle stands which they recommend.
The other thing I found interesting was regarding fuel level. They said filling the tank was up to personal preference. Seems to make no difference. Same with oil change. Common sense tells you it would make no difference if you changed it the day it went into storage or the day it came out.
 
The things I noticed were no need to over inflate the tires . Preferably raise the vehicle off the suspension taking the weight off the tires. I have always, as I have mentioned in previous posts, put any vehicle that I have stored up on blocks which is the same as using axle stands which they recommend.
Over inflating tires makes the contact patch less, so less flat spotting. I stopped doing it as the car wasn't stored long enough to make any difference whatsoever. Also, raising the vehicle on axle stands takes weight off the suspension, not sure how you put a car on blocks, but if it's the tires on blocks then it's not the same. Please explain how you do it if it's not just under the tires.
 
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Over inflating tires makes the contact patch less, so less flat spotting. I stopped doing it as the car wasn't stored long enough to make any difference whatsoever. Also, raising the vehicle on axle stands takes weight off the suspension, not sure how you put a car on blocks, but if it's the tires on blocks then it's not the same. Please explain how you do it if it's not just under the tires.
I use two jacks and raise one side at a time alternating from one jack to the other so it raises evenly. Then I place wooden blocks under the frame each side of the jacks which are only about 2 inches wide at the contact point. Just high enough so that the tires are just brushing the ground. Then do the other side. Pretty quick and pretty easy. This is the type of jack that I use. I have obviously never had a flat spot. It also takes the weight off of the suspension which can’t hurt. Mind you if I lived in the sub tropics like some of you folks I don’t know that I would bother either but here it’s about 6 months parked.
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Over inflating tires makes the contact patch less, so less flat spotting. I stopped doing it as the car wasn't stored long enough to make any difference whatsoever. Also, raising the vehicle on axle stands takes weight off the suspension, not sure how you put a car on blocks, but if it's the tires on blocks then it's not the same. Please explain how you do it if it's not just under the tires.
I searched for pictures of cars up on blocks and 90% show the blocks under the tires which is completely useless and that’s being generous ,lol. The blocks support the frame. Similar to this photo. No need to remove the wheels. Although I put blocks at each end of the frame as well as the middle for better support. I have some 2 foot lengths of 10x10 and thinner shims as required Takes half an hour twice a year. Or half a bottle of good red …. :rolleyes:
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Call me crazy .... but all i do is detail the car .... plug in the tender and cover it ... have done the same thing for 3 seasons ... no issues .... dont change the oil .... always do a fresh oil change at the start of the driving season ;)
Ya. Because mine is stored for 6 months or so I pull the battery out because I don’t use heated storage. I put mine in a reinforced Shelter Logic with a weather proof cover as my real garage is more of a recreation area with a 10 foot snooker table, stereo etc. I unfortunately don’t have the room to expand my garage or put up another. And yes oil change in the spring.
 
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Ya. Because mine is stored for 6 months or so I pull the battery out because I don’t use heated storage. I put mine in a reinforced Shelter Logic with a weather proof cover as my real garage is more of a recreation area with a 10 foot snooker table, stereo etc. I unfortunately don’t have the room to expand my garage or put up another. And yes oil change in the spring.
Snooker ... mabe a glass of bourbon during the winter months and the Vette sleeping nearby ... can life get any better ?;)

Now that you have had the Vette for pretty much a full summer ... hope it exceeded your expectations !
 
Snooker ... mabe a glass of bourbon during the winter months and the Vette sleeping nearby ... can life get any better ?;)

Now that you have had the Vette for pretty much a full summer ... hope it exceeded your expectations !
I just got back from an evening drive and noticed the milage is now at 4940 km . That’s since May 15 . Loved every km of it . Very nice vehicle to drive as you well know. Plenty of torque but certainly not too much ! But more than adequate. I have visions of Lingenfelter Roots blowers somewhere down the road and it’s not even Christmas yet, lol . And I know there are those who like their bourbon but for me……
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I want to address a misunderstanding of MOST seasonnal vehicle owners about the battery.
You should NEVER remove the battery to bring it inside for winter time. And for your information I'm a retired full time mechanic teacher of 23 years after 15 years of mostly dealer mechanic.
A fully charged battery is better stay in the cold than in a heated house basement. Cold slow down the chemical reaction within the battery and prolong it's usable life.
We have a tendency to think cold is bad for a battery but it's not. USING IT in cold to start a cold motor is hard on it, but not sitting in cold. Just make sure you fully charge it and let her sit outside but disconnected. A not fully charged battery will become sulfated and that is a no return condition. And BTW a reading of 12 volt is a dead battery, she has to be at least 12.6 to be fully charged. Each cell is 2.1 volt x 6.
Sitting in the cold the battery is kind of in sleeping mode because the electrons have a hard time to move and that is why it does not crank well. Like someone just awakened, it has to awake slowly to perform properly. This is the reason they say to turn on the headlamps on before starting a cold engine to let the electrons move a bit to warm them up before trying to start an almost seized engine by that cold thick oil and parts friction.
So remember that HEAT AND HUMIDITY is the WORST ennemy of a battery. As a fact a battery that has a 5 years garranty in Canada is only 3 years in Florida in many case.

I hope this will help some of you to better understand a battery life which is considered 5 years by the factory.
 
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