I have a 2005 c6 convertable. My issue is that as I put the top up or down, the front bow that attaches to the front windsheild strikes the tonneau cover latch. I currently hold the tonneau cover up by hand to clear the latch. The tonneau seams to raise up far enough and doesn't seam to be sagging. Please help.
I have a 2005 c6 convertable. My issue is the front bow that attaches to to front windsheild hits the tonneau cover latch while putting the top up/do
- Thread starter Milne
- Start date
Common problem as the mechanism ages - here's the fix . . . [FIX] Tonneau cover hits rear window (with video) - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-corvette-general-discussion/3785355-fix-tonneau-cover-hits-rear-window-with-video.html)
Sorry, that's a totally different issue than what I was thinking.
I would guess that the gas strut assist for the tonneau cover is weak and not pushing the deck lid back far enough. It looks like there is only one, on the passenger side. Rock auto lists it as a Tuff Support brand part # 614212.
If that's not it, then it'seither the hydraulics (pressure) or something out of alignment - both of those I would refer to a dealer for. Oh, wait, you said 2005, that would a manual top option only then . . .
I would guess that the gas strut assist for the tonneau cover is weak and not pushing the deck lid back far enough. It looks like there is only one, on the passenger side. Rock auto lists it as a Tuff Support brand part # 614212.
If that's not it, then it's
It is an automatic power top. What it looks like to me is the tonneau cover is not lifting all the way up. One thing I was told to do is check the tonneau hydraulic cylinder switch on the drivers side. The micro switch could satisfying to early preventing the cylinder from fully extending. He said there's no reason for the cylinder no to fully extend, so I will check the micro swith operation first.
Another obvious thing is to check my hydraulic fluid level first to eliminate that problem first, but I don't anticipate that being the issue. If it is low, then I'm replacing the whole pump.
There really isn't alot of adjustments other then behind the the pillar doors, and the 5th bow which is about moving the whole frame forward and down. Then you're dealing with the two pins not aligning with the windshield. Those adjustment s would be the next step.
Two adjustments two bolts (one on each side) with a set locking nut. Turning bolt away or down one turn at a time to find the sweet spot could solve the problem, but then again the top moves forward and pin alignment is key for the windshield. I think the 5th bow adjustments might be apart of that adjustment as well but might not be necessary.
The last adjustment is there's three bolts on each side that slides the whole top frame directly forward which I don't think you want to do.
I'll play some more with it as I'm hesitant to bring to the dealer at $210.00 an hour.
Another obvious thing is to check my hydraulic fluid level first to eliminate that problem first, but I don't anticipate that being the issue. If it is low, then I'm replacing the whole pump.
There really isn't alot of adjustments other then behind the the pillar doors, and the 5th bow which is about moving the whole frame forward and down. Then you're dealing with the two pins not aligning with the windshield. Those adjustment s would be the next step.
Two adjustments two bolts (one on each side) with a set locking nut. Turning bolt away or down one turn at a time to find the sweet spot could solve the problem, but then again the top moves forward and pin alignment is key for the windshield. I think the 5th bow adjustments might be apart of that adjustment as well but might not be necessary.
The last adjustment is there's three bolts on each side that slides the whole top frame directly forward which I don't think you want to do.
I'll play some more with it as I'm hesitant to bring to the dealer at $210.00 an hour.