I have a 2005 c6 convertable. My issue is the front bow that attaches to to front windsheild hits the tonneau cover latch while putting the top up/do

[Milne]

I have a 2005 c6 convertable. My issue is that as I put the top up or down, the front bow that attaches to the front windsheild strikes the tonneau cover latch. I currently hold the tonneau cover up by hand to clear the latch. The tonneau seams to raise up far enough and doesn't seam to be sagging. Please help.

 

[electric_yogurt]

Common problem as the mechanism ages - here's the fix . . . [FIX] Tonneau cover hits rear window (with video) - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-corvette-general-discussion/3785355-fix-tonneau-cover-hits-rear-window-with-video.html)

 

[Milne]

As per picture front bow contacts tonneau cover latch.

 

[electric_yogurt]

Sorry, that's a totally different issue than what I was thinking.

I would guess that the gas strut assist for the tonneau cover is weak and not pushing the deck lid back far enough. It looks like there is only one, on the passenger side. Rock auto lists it as a Tuff Support brand part # 614212.

If that's not it, then it's either the hydraulics (pressure) or something out of alignment - both of those I would refer to a dealer for. Oh, wait, you said 2005, that would a manual top option only then . . .

 

[Milne]

It is an automatic power top. What it looks like to me is the tonneau cover is not lifting all the way up. One thing I was told to do is check the tonneau hydraulic cylinder switch on the drivers side. The micro switch could satisfying to early preventing the cylinder from fully extending. He said there's no reason for the cylinder no to fully extend, so I will check the micro swith operation first.
Another obvious thing is to check my hydraulic fluid level first to eliminate that problem first, but I don't anticipate that being the issue. If it is low, then I'm replacing the whole pump.
There really isn't alot of adjustments other then behind the the pillar doors, and the 5th bow which is about moving the whole frame forward and down. Then you're dealing with the two pins not aligning with the windshield. Those adjustment s would be the next step.
Two adjustments two bolts (one on each side) with a set locking nut. Turning bolt away or down one turn at a time to find the sweet spot could solve the problem, but then again the top moves forward and pin alignment is key for the windshield. I think the 5th bow adjustments might be apart of that adjustment as well but might not be necessary.
The last adjustment is there's three bolts on each side that slides the whole top frame directly forward which I don't think you want to do.
I'll play some more with it as I'm hesitant to bring to the dealer at $210.00 an hour.

 

[kettrod]

I have the exact same issue, would like to hear what you found out. I also now have another issue after turning the pressure relief valve and operating the top manually a few times. I closed the valve but now when I try to raise the top, the tonneau unlatches and raises up maybe 20mm and then drops and the power latch pulls it down again. I looked at the pump and don't see any oil leaks and the level is between min and max. Any ideas ?

 

[Godabitibi]

My 2007 was doing the same.

 

[Milne]

I have the exact same issue, would like to hear what you found out. I also now have another issue after turning the pressure relief valve and operating the top manually a few times. I closed the valve but now when I try to raise the top, the tonneau unlatches and raises up maybe 20mm and then drops and the power latch pulls it down again. I looked at the pump and don't see any oil leaks and the level is between min and max. Any ideas ?

Well, I determined that the cylinder in the drivers side's switch in the cylinder is satisfying too early. I talked to Klaus from Top Hydrulics who tested multiple rebuilt cylinders and he discovered that the cylinders were not all switching the same, so he sent me a cylinder that was the most delayed and added a 1mm spacer on the arm. I just received it and want to install it this week. I will keep my fingers crossed that it solves the issue. I'll let you know.
I'm sorry, I don't know what's going on with your vehicle, however, you could talk to Top Hydrulics and ask them.

 

[Milne]

 

[Milne]

The top cylinder displayed is located on the left drivers side in the trunk wall that operates the tonneau cover. The second one down operates the right side.

 

[Milne]

The top cylinder displayed is located on the left drivers side in the trunk wall that operates the tonneau cover. The second one down operates the right side.

Sorry, I attached a duplicate picture of the same cylinders, so there's no confusion.

 

[kettrod]

Thank you for the info! Please let us know if it works and I'll contact Klaus as well. I'm going to poke around my car more tonight.

 

[Milne]

Thank you for the info! Please let us know if it works and I'll contact Klaus as well. I'm going to poke around my car more tonight.

The issue is repaired. Turns out that after I removed the tonneau cover cylinder on the drivers side, I discovered that the rear ball joint stem riveting had come loose on the tonneau cover cylinder on the drivers side. It had a lot of play back and forth causing the cylinder not to extend enough.
To stabilize the ball joint stem, I thought I would try JB Weld. I used an elastic band to pull the ball joint stem forward and squeeze the JB Weld under the base of the stem. I then let it cure for 24 hours.
I worked beautifully and I didn't need to change out the hinge.
The front bow now clears the tonneau cover latch.

 

[kettrod]

Thank you for sharing ! I found that the ball stud on the passenger side was wobbly. I was going to take the whole bracket off and take it to get welded, but maybe I'll try the JB Weld first. Looks like it's just riveted on and not welded originally !

 

[Milne]

Correct. Riveted. Interesting that its the passenger side on yours. Should have the same effect as mine you would think. Yes, for sure, I would try JB Weld original. As illustrated on the pictures, the elastic band pulls the ball stud forward so you can squeeze the JB Weld underneath the ball stud which is key to the stud stabilizing in the forward position. I also went in behind the stud on the opposite side to squeeze some into the rivited side. JB Weld can be an amazing product if used properly. Be sure to let it cure for 24 hours with the elastic band in place pulling the stud forward while it cures. Also note on my picture that I put tape on the ball end down far enough so the JB Weld does not get on the ball end. Tough to remove on areas you dont want it on. This application saves a lot of headache by not having to remove the whole hinge. Not the easiest to get at the bolts. Worst case scenario is you pull it and get it welded, but looks like mine is rock solid. I'm so glad I finally can put the top up and down without me having to hold the tonneau up by hand to clear.
I was surprised that there is nothing on the internet on this problem. Now that I know your problem is similar to
mine, I'm glad we might be able to help others in resolving this issue.
Please let me know how it goes with yours !!