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Corvette
C3 Forum
Final Winter Project 2020-2021
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<blockquote data-quote="Jr. Corvette" data-source="post: 232672" data-attributes="member: 1906"><p>Hey guys,</p><p></p><p>Happy new year! Hope everyone had a great Christmas. </p><p></p><p>So over the past couple weeks I grooved out my front fenders and glassed in two layers of 1.5oz mat fiberglass on each side. They are one piece layers each 5"x 76". Then I sanded them down to match the contour of the fender. While I was making a mess sanding down the fiberglass I decided to sand down the holes I glassed on the rear deck. </p><p></p><p>Next I disassembled the majority of the car which included everything from each door and the rear glass. To remove the rear glass I tried some fishing line first but it snapped right away. Then I tried some trimmer wire and it worked like a charm. Once the glass was out I scraped off the old adhesive with a razor blade and got the rest off with some mineral spirits. Fun fact, mineral spirits doesn't hurt window tint! </p><p></p><p>After the car was disassembled I laid out some plastic over the rear frame, the interior, and on the ground, then I started applying the paint stripper. I went with Citris Strip after reading a few forums where guys have used it previously. It costs about $50 on Amazon but you only need two cases to do the entire car (after razor blading of course). This stuff actually says not to use it on fiberglass but I tested it on a spare piece of SMC and polyester and it doesn't hurt it at all. I found it takes about 3-4 applications of this stuff waiting between 7-12 hours per application and any spot I hadn't razor bladed did not come off. Inbetween applications I have to scrape off each panel with a razor blade then reapply the stripper. After all the paint is off I usually have a red layer of factory primer that comes off with some stripper on a red scotch bright pad. After that I clean the panel with mineral spirits. So far the entire rear of the car from the doors back has been stripped down to fiberglass. I have the hood surround on it's last application and the front fenders should be done on Monday. This whole process has been very labor intensive and I'd recommend anyone who is considering doing this to just soda blast your car. All in all I have around 70 hours just stripping paint. </p><p></p><p>I've also made 4 mounting tabs for the gas tank because I may have measured the rear mounting tab a bit short... I mean, I meant to do that and it'll be easier to install the tank. Ya, that's right <img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" />. I bought some 1/4" steal plates and used a grinder to round off the corners so that, in the event of a crash, I don't have anything sharp that could puncture the tank. I definitely ordered the tabs too thick but I wanted to over engineer them to make sure the tank was solid. I still have to drill some holes and paint them but I have to wait for the tank to get back from powder coating. They will mount in the pocket of the rear crossmember and I'll step the tabs so they'll sit flush with the frame. I'll also tap the holes on the tabs so the gas tank bolts can screw into them. </p><p></p><p>One little thing I did while waiting for the fuel tank to get back from powder coating is I filed a few directional arrows into two of my fuel line fittings. That way if I ever disconnect them I know which line is supply and return. </p><p></p><p>Lastly, I started a few fiberglass repairs. I did a few layers of fiberglass on my rear quarter where a tree branch had wreaked the bottom of the quarter, and I did a few layers on my T-top where I broke the corner removing the trim. I also fixed one of the holes for my T-top weather stripping retainer. I found a good way to repair a screw hole in fiberglass is to drill it out quite a bit bigger than the hole needed then clean the hole. Cut up some fiberglass mat into small pieces. Mix the resin then add a little resin to the hole and grab some chopped fiberglass, wet it, then shove it in the hole. I then took a Q-tip, snapped it in half and used the hard end to pack the hole down. Once it cured I drilled the hole then installed the screw with a quick clockwise then counter clock wise turn to walk it down (because I didn't have a tap that pitch). It worked great and the quality of the threads are amazing.</p><p></p><p>I should get my hood and bumper this coming week and my rims should be shipping soon as well! </p><p></p><p>Once I finish stripping the car I'll start to correct any damaged areas, fill the rear quarter panel seams, and I'll start the blend the front bumper to the body.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jr. Corvette, post: 232672, member: 1906"] Hey guys, Happy new year! Hope everyone had a great Christmas. So over the past couple weeks I grooved out my front fenders and glassed in two layers of 1.5oz mat fiberglass on each side. They are one piece layers each 5"x 76". Then I sanded them down to match the contour of the fender. While I was making a mess sanding down the fiberglass I decided to sand down the holes I glassed on the rear deck. Next I disassembled the majority of the car which included everything from each door and the rear glass. To remove the rear glass I tried some fishing line first but it snapped right away. Then I tried some trimmer wire and it worked like a charm. Once the glass was out I scraped off the old adhesive with a razor blade and got the rest off with some mineral spirits. Fun fact, mineral spirits doesn't hurt window tint! After the car was disassembled I laid out some plastic over the rear frame, the interior, and on the ground, then I started applying the paint stripper. I went with Citris Strip after reading a few forums where guys have used it previously. It costs about $50 on Amazon but you only need two cases to do the entire car (after razor blading of course). This stuff actually says not to use it on fiberglass but I tested it on a spare piece of SMC and polyester and it doesn't hurt it at all. I found it takes about 3-4 applications of this stuff waiting between 7-12 hours per application and any spot I hadn't razor bladed did not come off. Inbetween applications I have to scrape off each panel with a razor blade then reapply the stripper. After all the paint is off I usually have a red layer of factory primer that comes off with some stripper on a red scotch bright pad. After that I clean the panel with mineral spirits. So far the entire rear of the car from the doors back has been stripped down to fiberglass. I have the hood surround on it's last application and the front fenders should be done on Monday. This whole process has been very labor intensive and I'd recommend anyone who is considering doing this to just soda blast your car. All in all I have around 70 hours just stripping paint. I've also made 4 mounting tabs for the gas tank because I may have measured the rear mounting tab a bit short... I mean, I meant to do that and it'll be easier to install the tank. Ya, that's right :). I bought some 1/4" steal plates and used a grinder to round off the corners so that, in the event of a crash, I don't have anything sharp that could puncture the tank. I definitely ordered the tabs too thick but I wanted to over engineer them to make sure the tank was solid. I still have to drill some holes and paint them but I have to wait for the tank to get back from powder coating. They will mount in the pocket of the rear crossmember and I'll step the tabs so they'll sit flush with the frame. I'll also tap the holes on the tabs so the gas tank bolts can screw into them. One little thing I did while waiting for the fuel tank to get back from powder coating is I filed a few directional arrows into two of my fuel line fittings. That way if I ever disconnect them I know which line is supply and return. Lastly, I started a few fiberglass repairs. I did a few layers of fiberglass on my rear quarter where a tree branch had wreaked the bottom of the quarter, and I did a few layers on my T-top where I broke the corner removing the trim. I also fixed one of the holes for my T-top weather stripping retainer. I found a good way to repair a screw hole in fiberglass is to drill it out quite a bit bigger than the hole needed then clean the hole. Cut up some fiberglass mat into small pieces. Mix the resin then add a little resin to the hole and grab some chopped fiberglass, wet it, then shove it in the hole. I then took a Q-tip, snapped it in half and used the hard end to pack the hole down. Once it cured I drilled the hole then installed the screw with a quick clockwise then counter clock wise turn to walk it down (because I didn't have a tap that pitch). It worked great and the quality of the threads are amazing. I should get my hood and bumper this coming week and my rims should be shipping soon as well! Once I finish stripping the car I'll start to correct any damaged areas, fill the rear quarter panel seams, and I'll start the blend the front bumper to the body. [/QUOTE]
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Final Winter Project 2020-2021
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