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Corvette
C3 Forum
Final Winter Project 2020-2021
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<blockquote data-quote="Jr. Corvette" data-source="post: 227788" data-attributes="member: 1906"><p>Hey guys,</p><p></p><p>I think I'll try to make these updates weekly for consistency. </p><p></p><p>I finished disassembling the rear end this week, then I cleaned and painted the frame with my combination of POR15 and zero rust. I've talked about this before on another thread but I'll say it again incase someone missed that thread. I've found that using POR15 or zero rust by themselves works ok but I've found a better technique that can hold up to the strike of a hammer or the harshness of brake fluid. I prep the part to be painted with wire wheels and sanding discs. I clean the part with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits then give one last wipe after it's dry to remove any dust. I brush on the POR15 with a bristle brush. Don't use a foam brush because the POR15 is sticky and it will disintegrate the foam brush leaving foam trapped in the paint which makes it very rough. I wait about 1.5 to 2 hours then go back and spray the part with aerosol zero rust. I spray it when the POR15 is tacky but not dry so that the layers bond together and don't sit on top of eachother. I then leave it to dry at least a day, and it will fully cure in about a week so if you're assembling parts try to wait a week if possible. I've found this produces a nice semi gloss/semi matte finish that is extremely smooth and looks powder coated. </p><p></p><p>I also prepped the fiberglass deck when I was stripping the frame so after I finished the frame I did the first layers of glass. To prep the rear deck I very crudely sanded big grooves on the top of the deck around the holes with a drill and sanding wheel. Then sanded the bottom of the deck by hand with 80 grit. I'm starting the glassing by applying two layers of fiberglass under all of the holes. On the big antenna holes I applied two layers underneath and one layer on top to ensure a strong adhesion between the layers. Next I'll fill the holes with some chopped fiberglass and resin and then two more layers of fiberglass mat. The purpose of the groves on top is to make the fiberglass structural. That way, when I sand down the fiberglass I am left with fiberglass extending beyond the hole and overtop of original fiberglass. That way the holes will never reappear. </p><p></p><p>After I finished the fiberglass I went and picked up the new tank that I designed and my buddy built. It's approximately 25 gallons and sits 3 inches lower than stock which gives it a lower center of gravity. I designed it to utilize the factory mounts by having a long mounting tab on the rear that sits on top of the frame and two side tabs that extend out to where the factory lower gas tank support bolted. The tank fit like a glove! I'll have to drill and install an in-tank fuel pump as that got missed on the build and I have to figure out a new gas tank filler as right now it's just a 2 1/4" tube with no threads sticking out of the tank but I have a cool idea for that.</p><p></p><p>Hopefully my fuel lines will come in this week. I had to change some plans as my 6AN lines were on backorder, I cancelled thar order and ordered some 8AN lines and fittings instead which may work better anyway. </p><p></p><p>I'll also be finishing up the fiberglass then painting the crash protection bits. I'm undecided on reinstalling the gas tank shield. It's a bit of work to prep and paint and I don't see too much point because in 1978 they deleted that shield so I don't think it did too much. Having it off reduces a little weight and makes everything easier to access but in the event of a fire I would loose some protection. What do you guys think? Do you have any suggestions for an alternative the shield that would help contain the flames in the event of a fire?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jr. Corvette, post: 227788, member: 1906"] Hey guys, I think I'll try to make these updates weekly for consistency. I finished disassembling the rear end this week, then I cleaned and painted the frame with my combination of POR15 and zero rust. I've talked about this before on another thread but I'll say it again incase someone missed that thread. I've found that using POR15 or zero rust by themselves works ok but I've found a better technique that can hold up to the strike of a hammer or the harshness of brake fluid. I prep the part to be painted with wire wheels and sanding discs. I clean the part with rubbing alcohol or mineral spirits then give one last wipe after it's dry to remove any dust. I brush on the POR15 with a bristle brush. Don't use a foam brush because the POR15 is sticky and it will disintegrate the foam brush leaving foam trapped in the paint which makes it very rough. I wait about 1.5 to 2 hours then go back and spray the part with aerosol zero rust. I spray it when the POR15 is tacky but not dry so that the layers bond together and don't sit on top of eachother. I then leave it to dry at least a day, and it will fully cure in about a week so if you're assembling parts try to wait a week if possible. I've found this produces a nice semi gloss/semi matte finish that is extremely smooth and looks powder coated. I also prepped the fiberglass deck when I was stripping the frame so after I finished the frame I did the first layers of glass. To prep the rear deck I very crudely sanded big grooves on the top of the deck around the holes with a drill and sanding wheel. Then sanded the bottom of the deck by hand with 80 grit. I'm starting the glassing by applying two layers of fiberglass under all of the holes. On the big antenna holes I applied two layers underneath and one layer on top to ensure a strong adhesion between the layers. Next I'll fill the holes with some chopped fiberglass and resin and then two more layers of fiberglass mat. The purpose of the groves on top is to make the fiberglass structural. That way, when I sand down the fiberglass I am left with fiberglass extending beyond the hole and overtop of original fiberglass. That way the holes will never reappear. After I finished the fiberglass I went and picked up the new tank that I designed and my buddy built. It's approximately 25 gallons and sits 3 inches lower than stock which gives it a lower center of gravity. I designed it to utilize the factory mounts by having a long mounting tab on the rear that sits on top of the frame and two side tabs that extend out to where the factory lower gas tank support bolted. The tank fit like a glove! I'll have to drill and install an in-tank fuel pump as that got missed on the build and I have to figure out a new gas tank filler as right now it's just a 2 1/4" tube with no threads sticking out of the tank but I have a cool idea for that. Hopefully my fuel lines will come in this week. I had to change some plans as my 6AN lines were on backorder, I cancelled thar order and ordered some 8AN lines and fittings instead which may work better anyway. I'll also be finishing up the fiberglass then painting the crash protection bits. I'm undecided on reinstalling the gas tank shield. It's a bit of work to prep and paint and I don't see too much point because in 1978 they deleted that shield so I don't think it did too much. Having it off reduces a little weight and makes everything easier to access but in the event of a fire I would loose some protection. What do you guys think? Do you have any suggestions for an alternative the shield that would help contain the flames in the event of a fire? [/QUOTE]
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Final Winter Project 2020-2021
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