I have seen some threads in the C5 forum of members refinishing their transparent tops, but I've yet to see the same for the C6.
There have been many questions asked if the C6 Lexan top could be brought back to life from the crazing and spider webbing that is so prevalent, if the wrong cleaner is used, or simply by age. I purchased a used top, with no hardware, with major crazing for a good price, to do that experiment.
Here is the condition of the top before starting this project.
I followed some of the steps from the C5 threads, and added my own twists and turns as I saw fitting for my top.
The finish coat of the lexan top is one brute of a bear to remove, even using very aggressive 150 grit wet sandpaper over soapy water. It took me at least 6 hours of sanding until the top coat was dull with no shiny area remaining .
This project was started about a year ago, and after the 400 grit stage, I got on other projects, and didn't get back to the top once the driving season and golf season was underway.
A few weeks ago, I spoke to a professional painter at a body shop, and got his recommendation for sanding requirement so that a clear coat added would not show any sanding marks. His answers, and guidance got me re-motivated to finish sanding my spare top, as recommended.
This was the initial sanding process.
I wet sanded the initial step of 150 grit going in a North -south pattern. Once that step was completed, I stepped up to 250 grit wet sanding West-East, followed by 320 grit going North -South, followed by 400 grit in a West-East pattern. Then I took a hiatus
Painter recommendation:
The next step was with 600 grit, sanding North -South. The final step was done with 800 grit (West- East, then North-South) just to be sure that all of the 600 grit strokes were erased by the 800 grit sanding. The opposite pattern for sanding was done to more easily determine when the previous stage was erased by the next sanding stage. I did all the sanding, and the masking of the full underneath portion of the top, as the professional painter had recommended.
He quoted me $200.00 to clear coat the top, providing i would get to a smooth 800 grit, and then fully mask the bottom of the top to prevent any overspray. I did that, dropped it off, and told him if he needed to get a smoother sand of 800, to do that and I would pay for that extra time taken.
I picked up the finished top yesterday, and I was super pleased with how good it turned out. The finish was a clear coat polished as would be done on any paint job. Here are some pics:
To look through the top, there are no sanding marks visible, and it looks fantastic.
I'll remove the hardware from my original top, and put in on this newly refurbished top.
I'm thinking that this clear coat finish will last as long as the original coating from the factory.
Only time will tell, but I'm very hopeful after seeing the finished product.
He must of liked my sanding, because I was charged the original quoted amount.
My original lexan top is now 13 years old, and beginning to show some spider webbing, and some crazing marks, and a few chips.
I will certainly refinish that one as well, when I get motivated in the next few years...or sooner
It's nice to know that it can be refinished to a quality result.
There have been many questions asked if the C6 Lexan top could be brought back to life from the crazing and spider webbing that is so prevalent, if the wrong cleaner is used, or simply by age. I purchased a used top, with no hardware, with major crazing for a good price, to do that experiment.
Here is the condition of the top before starting this project.
I followed some of the steps from the C5 threads, and added my own twists and turns as I saw fitting for my top.
The finish coat of the lexan top is one brute of a bear to remove, even using very aggressive 150 grit wet sandpaper over soapy water. It took me at least 6 hours of sanding until the top coat was dull with no shiny area remaining .
This project was started about a year ago, and after the 400 grit stage, I got on other projects, and didn't get back to the top once the driving season and golf season was underway.
A few weeks ago, I spoke to a professional painter at a body shop, and got his recommendation for sanding requirement so that a clear coat added would not show any sanding marks. His answers, and guidance got me re-motivated to finish sanding my spare top, as recommended.
This was the initial sanding process.
I wet sanded the initial step of 150 grit going in a North -south pattern. Once that step was completed, I stepped up to 250 grit wet sanding West-East, followed by 320 grit going North -South, followed by 400 grit in a West-East pattern. Then I took a hiatus
Painter recommendation:
The next step was with 600 grit, sanding North -South. The final step was done with 800 grit (West- East, then North-South) just to be sure that all of the 600 grit strokes were erased by the 800 grit sanding. The opposite pattern for sanding was done to more easily determine when the previous stage was erased by the next sanding stage. I did all the sanding, and the masking of the full underneath portion of the top, as the professional painter had recommended.
He quoted me $200.00 to clear coat the top, providing i would get to a smooth 800 grit, and then fully mask the bottom of the top to prevent any overspray. I did that, dropped it off, and told him if he needed to get a smoother sand of 800, to do that and I would pay for that extra time taken.
I picked up the finished top yesterday, and I was super pleased with how good it turned out. The finish was a clear coat polished as would be done on any paint job. Here are some pics:
To look through the top, there are no sanding marks visible, and it looks fantastic.
I'll remove the hardware from my original top, and put in on this newly refurbished top.
I'm thinking that this clear coat finish will last as long as the original coating from the factory.
Only time will tell, but I'm very hopeful after seeing the finished product.
He must of liked my sanding, because I was charged the original quoted amount.
My original lexan top is now 13 years old, and beginning to show some spider webbing, and some crazing marks, and a few chips.
I will certainly refinish that one as well, when I get motivated in the next few years...or sooner
It's nice to know that it can be refinished to a quality result.
