Search
Search titles only
By:
Search titles only
By:
Forums
New posts
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Member Map
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
What's new
New posts
All posts
Trending
Latest activity
New media
New Events
New review items
New Users & BDays
New User Announcements
Birthday Announcements
New classified ads
New showcase items
New classified comments
New showcase comments
Classifieds
New ads
New comments
Latest content
Latest feedback
Latest questions
Advertiser list
Search classifieds
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Events
New events
Donate
My CCF
Toolbox
Mailing Lists
My Shop
Reviews
New items
Latest content
Latest reviews
Latest questions
Brands
Search reviews
Showcase
New items
New comments
Latest content
Latest updates
Latest reviews
Author list
Series list
Search showcase
Log in
Register
Search
Search titles only
By:
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Member Map
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Menu
Install the app
Install
Reply to thread
Corvette
Corvette Tech Questions & DIY
DIY: C5 ACA Headlights + Modified Hi-4 mod + Healight Gear Replacement
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Pyro" data-source="post: 96063" data-attributes="member: 1313"><p><strong><u><span style="font-size: 26px">Modified Hi-4 Mod</span></u></strong></p><p>This mod makes the low beams stay on when you switch to high beams. With the Radioflyer bi-xenon headlights this mod definitely holds more value otherwise the bi-xenon will not work. Essentially this mod sends the high beam signal to the low beams thereby keeping the lows powered. In bi-xenons this would send a current to the cutoff shield to retract. The issue with the standard Hi-4 mod is that with the headlights down, if you flash to pass this will trigger send the low beams which is actually the signal for the headlights to come up so during the day if you flash to pass your headlights will pop up and go back down. If you never use this function it's not a big deal but i wanted to make mine work as if it were stock.</p><p></p><p>Parts Needed for Hi-4</p><p>- Relay + wires + electrical connectors/eyelets OR Hi-4 Harness</p><p></p><p>Additional Parts Needed for modified version</p><p>- second relay</p><p>- wires</p><p>- electrical connectors</p><p></p><p>Tools needed</p><p>- 12mm socket wrench (I think...i don't remember the size for the battery node by the fuse box)</p><p>- 8mm socket or box wrench</p><p>- electrical tape</p><p>- OPTIONAL: wire loom</p><p>- OPTIONAL: small knife</p><p>- OPTIONAL: dieletric grease</p><p></p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/cDWVtr3l.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Here's a rough electrical diagram of what i'm trying to accomplish the numbers correspond to the pins on the relay, they are labeled and you will be able to read them. In simple terms what this is saying is "Relay #1: If the side marker and high beam are ON, then send power to Relay #2. Relay #2: If Relay #1 is sending power, send power to low beams"</p><p></p><p>1. If you're doing the standard Hi-4 skip ahead to step 5</p><p></p><p>The modified version requires tapping into the side marker bulb as that is the most consistent indicator i could think of for the headlights to be up. It is possible to turn your side marker and parking light on without your headlights up but I think that occurrence is rare enough that we can use it (at least for me)....I mean how often do you guys turn the headlight stalk one click to get the parking lights without popping up the headlights?</p><p></p><p>Anyway to get at the side marker there are a few ways. If you followed from the <u>HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT</u> above then you can access the bulb right away with the headlight out. Or you can remove the plastic trim piece in front of the wheel well under the car held by 5 bolts. Or you can push the brake duct aside and if your hands fit, you can maybe reach the bulb from there or get someone with smaller hands to do it for you. Side note, this is another way to change your turn signal bulb</p><p></p><p>Here's an example of the brake duct trick. My hand doesn't actually fit that far in but i did just to show you what it would look like</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/5luNW1Bl.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>2. It's easier to run the wire from the battery down to the side marker rather than the other way around...depending on how lazy you are and how much you want to hide the wire. I also used a wire loom.</p><p></p><p>Start by running the wire (with wire loom optional) under the fuse box and through the battery divider.</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/xVkzZ0nl.jpg?1" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>run the wire along the side of the coolant reservoir where the existing harness runs as well. have your wire (and wire loom) follow this harness down behind fans and under the main beam. You can zip tie it all together.</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/BfJVtKtl.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>3. Once you have your wire (and wire loom) all the way to the side marker, make sure you give yourself enough slack and tap into the +ve wire (general rule of thumb is the one that's not black). Electrical tape everything back up and then put the bulb back</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/KHrfYO5l.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>4. You'll need some female spade connectors and wires (don't have to be too long I don't think i cut mine much longer than 6 inches and that was probably too much) to attach to your relays. So the long wire from the side marker goes to pin 86. pin 87 will tap into the high beam fuse (#9) in the underhood fusebox. 2 options here you can either just make your own wire or what i did was disconnect the high beam wire from the Hi-4 harness and reused it in my relay since this wire has a fuse tap on the end making for a cleaner looking install. pin 85 is ground tap the other end into the ground wire of the Hi-4 harness. pin 30 will go to the Hi-4 harness</p><p></p><p>5. The Hi-4 Harness is just a pre-made relay that's ready to install so you can make your own for much cheaper if you wanted to. My headlights came with the Hi-4 harness so i just reused it...connect the red wire (pin 87) to the battery via the nut on the fuse box (hidden directly below the wire loom in the picture of the fuse box below). The 2 wires from pin 30 go to the low beam fuse (#8 and #10). The black wire (pin 85) goes to ground. There is a grounding point if you move the battery divider out of the way a little at the bottom beside the battery</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/gdAXlAel.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>and lastly</p><p><u>Standard Hi-4:</u> connect the high beam wire (pin 86) to the high beam fuse (#9 under hood)</p><p></p><p><u>modified Hi-4:</u> take the wire from pin 30 of the first relay and connect it to pin 86 of the Hi-4 harness/relay</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/08Q7KUol.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Here's a picture of the modified Hi-4 mod, I only had white wire and I wasn't about to buy new coloured wires just for this...but you can see white wire with wire loom on the right is the side marker wire, middle white wire goes to high beam fuse, and wire on left loops into the Hi-4 harness/relay</p><p></p><p>6. This step is optional but i noticed the fusebox lid was pinching the wires...not sure if there's a way to run this wires through the fusebox somehow but for now i made 2 small incisions into the side lip of my fuse box lid and folded it up so it gives the wires some room to stick out. Here's a picture before i folded the lip back so you have a rough idea of what i did. Not really rocket science here</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/kTXHzssl.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>Couple quick shots of the highbeams and keep in mind with the headlights DOWN this modified version will not make the headlights pop up when flashing to pass. The standard Hi-4 mod will so if that bugs you do the modified version!</p><p><img src="http://i.imgur.com/scdzn53l.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /><img src="http://i.imgur.com/tiwAuYfl.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p></p><p></p><p>phew sorry for the long post! If you got this far then thanks for reading! Hope you enjoyed it and I hope it helps someone. Happy modding everyone!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Pyro, post: 96063, member: 1313"] [B][U][SIZE=7]Modified Hi-4 Mod[/SIZE][/U][/B] This mod makes the low beams stay on when you switch to high beams. With the Radioflyer bi-xenon headlights this mod definitely holds more value otherwise the bi-xenon will not work. Essentially this mod sends the high beam signal to the low beams thereby keeping the lows powered. In bi-xenons this would send a current to the cutoff shield to retract. The issue with the standard Hi-4 mod is that with the headlights down, if you flash to pass this will trigger send the low beams which is actually the signal for the headlights to come up so during the day if you flash to pass your headlights will pop up and go back down. If you never use this function it's not a big deal but i wanted to make mine work as if it were stock. Parts Needed for Hi-4 - Relay + wires + electrical connectors/eyelets OR Hi-4 Harness Additional Parts Needed for modified version - second relay - wires - electrical connectors Tools needed - 12mm socket wrench (I think...i don't remember the size for the battery node by the fuse box) - 8mm socket or box wrench - electrical tape - OPTIONAL: wire loom - OPTIONAL: small knife - OPTIONAL: dieletric grease [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/cDWVtr3l.jpg[/IMG] Here's a rough electrical diagram of what i'm trying to accomplish the numbers correspond to the pins on the relay, they are labeled and you will be able to read them. In simple terms what this is saying is "Relay #1: If the side marker and high beam are ON, then send power to Relay #2. Relay #2: If Relay #1 is sending power, send power to low beams" 1. If you're doing the standard Hi-4 skip ahead to step 5 The modified version requires tapping into the side marker bulb as that is the most consistent indicator i could think of for the headlights to be up. It is possible to turn your side marker and parking light on without your headlights up but I think that occurrence is rare enough that we can use it (at least for me)....I mean how often do you guys turn the headlight stalk one click to get the parking lights without popping up the headlights? Anyway to get at the side marker there are a few ways. If you followed from the [U]HEADLIGHT REPLACEMENT[/U] above then you can access the bulb right away with the headlight out. Or you can remove the plastic trim piece in front of the wheel well under the car held by 5 bolts. Or you can push the brake duct aside and if your hands fit, you can maybe reach the bulb from there or get someone with smaller hands to do it for you. Side note, this is another way to change your turn signal bulb Here's an example of the brake duct trick. My hand doesn't actually fit that far in but i did just to show you what it would look like [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/5luNW1Bl.jpg[/IMG] 2. It's easier to run the wire from the battery down to the side marker rather than the other way around...depending on how lazy you are and how much you want to hide the wire. I also used a wire loom. Start by running the wire (with wire loom optional) under the fuse box and through the battery divider. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/xVkzZ0nl.jpg?1[/IMG] run the wire along the side of the coolant reservoir where the existing harness runs as well. have your wire (and wire loom) follow this harness down behind fans and under the main beam. You can zip tie it all together. [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/BfJVtKtl.jpg[/IMG] 3. Once you have your wire (and wire loom) all the way to the side marker, make sure you give yourself enough slack and tap into the +ve wire (general rule of thumb is the one that's not black). Electrical tape everything back up and then put the bulb back [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/KHrfYO5l.jpg[/IMG] 4. You'll need some female spade connectors and wires (don't have to be too long I don't think i cut mine much longer than 6 inches and that was probably too much) to attach to your relays. So the long wire from the side marker goes to pin 86. pin 87 will tap into the high beam fuse (#9) in the underhood fusebox. 2 options here you can either just make your own wire or what i did was disconnect the high beam wire from the Hi-4 harness and reused it in my relay since this wire has a fuse tap on the end making for a cleaner looking install. pin 85 is ground tap the other end into the ground wire of the Hi-4 harness. pin 30 will go to the Hi-4 harness 5. The Hi-4 Harness is just a pre-made relay that's ready to install so you can make your own for much cheaper if you wanted to. My headlights came with the Hi-4 harness so i just reused it...connect the red wire (pin 87) to the battery via the nut on the fuse box (hidden directly below the wire loom in the picture of the fuse box below). The 2 wires from pin 30 go to the low beam fuse (#8 and #10). The black wire (pin 85) goes to ground. There is a grounding point if you move the battery divider out of the way a little at the bottom beside the battery [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/gdAXlAel.jpg[/IMG] and lastly [U]Standard Hi-4:[/U] connect the high beam wire (pin 86) to the high beam fuse (#9 under hood) [U]modified Hi-4:[/U] take the wire from pin 30 of the first relay and connect it to pin 86 of the Hi-4 harness/relay [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/08Q7KUol.jpg[/IMG] Here's a picture of the modified Hi-4 mod, I only had white wire and I wasn't about to buy new coloured wires just for this...but you can see white wire with wire loom on the right is the side marker wire, middle white wire goes to high beam fuse, and wire on left loops into the Hi-4 harness/relay 6. This step is optional but i noticed the fusebox lid was pinching the wires...not sure if there's a way to run this wires through the fusebox somehow but for now i made 2 small incisions into the side lip of my fuse box lid and folded it up so it gives the wires some room to stick out. Here's a picture before i folded the lip back so you have a rough idea of what i did. Not really rocket science here [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/kTXHzssl.jpg[/IMG] Couple quick shots of the highbeams and keep in mind with the headlights DOWN this modified version will not make the headlights pop up when flashing to pass. The standard Hi-4 mod will so if that bugs you do the modified version! [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/scdzn53l.jpg[/IMG][IMG]http://i.imgur.com/tiwAuYfl.jpg[/IMG] phew sorry for the long post! If you got this far then thanks for reading! Hope you enjoyed it and I hope it helps someone. Happy modding everyone! [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Corvette
Corvette Tech Questions & DIY
DIY: C5 ACA Headlights + Modified Hi-4 mod + Healight Gear Replacement
Top
Bottom
You're browsing as a
Guest
. Please register to receive all manner of go-faster benefits on CCF. Click
HERE
to login or register.