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Jan 1, 2014
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Calgary AB
VetteCoins
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77 Corvette L82
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AB
Hey Guys,

Hope everyone is staying safe!

I've been posting my winter projects on another thread but I thought this project deserved it's own thread incase anybody wants to do this to their car.

I'm installing a brand new AC system into my car this winter. I removed the evaporator case and I saw quiet a lot of dust in the vents. A lot considering I had just cleaned all of the vents last year. It got me thinking about an idea I had a few years ago of making a custom cabin air filter. I decided I had the time... Quite a lot of time in fact, so I took a stab at it.

I decided to install the filter in the engine bay behind the evaporator. I choose that location because it filter's all of the air. You could probably source a smaller filter and put it in the main vent but if you're using the heater it's possible for unfiltered air to pass into the cabin. I also choose that location because if it got wet there is a drain whole for the evaporator so it should dry up and not get moldy.

First I measured to see what my options were as far as filter's. That would determine the size of my filter frame and how much clearencing I would need to do. I decided on a Wix 24270 filter but you should be able to go with a Fram 11666 (carbon infused filter). I then needed to get some 1" aluminum 'C' channel. The walls of the channel are 0.125" thick which leaves me with a channel width of .75" which happens to be the exact depth of my filter. I then needed to bend the channel to make my frame. I wanted a 7" wide channel but I had to factor in that aluminum stretches when you bend it so I calculated 6 5/8" measurement would give me 7" when bent. I had to heat the aluminum up to 400 degrees Fahrenheit to take the temper out of the metal so I could bend it without it tearing. I learned this neat trick where if you rub some soap on the back side of your aluminum, then you heat it with a propane torch and the soap will turn black when it gets hot enough. I then had to let the part cool down before bending it to again avoid tearing the metal. It actually turned out to be 6 15/16" once I make my bends but it was close enough and the aluminum didn't tear or break. Once I made my two 90 degree bends I used a chop saw to cut the frame to be 10" tall. I then clearanced the box to fit the frame. Once everything was fitting nicely I decided to test fit it in the car to make sure there weren't any clearance issues but there was. My header was only 1/8" away from the box. The only solution was to remove a section of the side of the aluminum channel with a Dremel, a carbide bit, and a lot of patience. I also trimmed the fiberglass to act like the wall of my channel then secured the frame in place using some urethane. Last night I finished laying up the fiberglass to close the box back up. I did a test fit today and I have about a 1/4" of clearance to my header and I haven't sanded down the fiberglass. Next I'll be making a cover for the air filter out of 0.5" x 0.75" aluminum flat bar, then sanding and finishing the box.

I haven't quite got the project done but I'm hoping to have it done in the next week or so and I'll try to keep you guys up to date.
 

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Hey Guys,

Glad you guys are interested in the project. Thanks for the warm words. I should start up a YouTube Channel but seen as how the car is like 98% done I don't think it's worth it. I'll have to get a new project car and then I film that build. I'd love to get a factory 5 car and build that.

Anyway, I got the lid assembled for the air filter and added a jam screw so that it can't possible come out unless I want it to. It's a nice tight fit without it though. Here's a video of the fitment

I also drilled a new hole for the blower motor resistor. Now I can get started on sanding it and contouring it all to look nice!

As a note to anyone looking to do this in the future, try to aim on the wider side of things. I went as tight as possible to make it look as factory as possible but it would have worked far better if the frame had been a little over 7" because it's a little tight at the bottom and it causes the filter to bunch up slightly.
 

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Hey Guys,

Status update. I've done two layers of short strand fiberglass filler and it's coming along nicely. To get a perfect contour of the cover I wrapped the cover in plastic, slid it in place and filled around it. I need to do one more batch of the short strand to fill in just a few more spots, then I'll be moving onto the regular filler for the little imperfections. Hopefully I'll have some paint on it in a few days!
 

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Beautiful work, demonstrates not only outstanding skill but tremendous patience. You are an inspiration.
Thanks David. I really appreciate that.

Hey guys. I have made some more progress on this project. I finished up the body work and just finished the top coat today on the evaporator box, lid, and blower motor box. I didn't care so much about the body work of the blower motor box because it's in the fender but I still sanded the whole thing. I also sanded the lid because it go a little marked up while I was working on the box. I also cut the jam screw down so it doesn't protrude out of the box. Once the box is fully cured I'll be adding some lava shield to hopefully deflect some of the heat by the header so the box doesn't get so hot.

I made a new spacer for my blower motor out of HDPE. I had made one a few years ago when I upgraded to a C4 wheel to get increased air flow. I had made it out of wood years ago but it was so thin that the wood broke and there were holes so I coated the entire outside with urethane to fix my mistake. Quite the Bubba fix but it's all better now with this HDPE one and it's perfect.

I also fixed my heater box door. I wanted to make sure that the door fully sealed when I had the temperature on hot and cold. The door sealed fully when on hot but only closed half way when on cold, which meant this whole time half of the air was going through my heater core when I had it set to cold! No wonder the air felt so hot. What I did was I made a 90 degree bend in the cable to shorten it as well as increase the leverage force to help depress the vacuum plunger on top of the heater box. Now the door fully closes on hot and on cold.

In the next post I should have everything installed in the car!
 

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Thanks David. I really appreciate that.

Hey guys. I have made some more progress on this project. I finished up the body work and just finished the top coat today on the evaporator box, lid, and blower motor box. I didn't care so much about the body work of the blower motor box because it's in the fender but I still sanded the whole thing. I also sanded the lid because it go a little marked up while I was working on the box. I also cut the jam screw down so it doesn't protrude out of the box. Once the box is fully cured I'll be adding some lava shield to hopefully deflect some of the heat by the header so the box doesn't get so hot.

I made a new spacer for my blower motor out of HDPE. I had made one a few years ago when I upgraded to a C4 wheel to get increased air flow. I had made it out of would but it was so thin that the wood broke and there were holes so I coated the entire outside with urethane to fix my mistake. Quite the Bubba fix but it's all better now and it's perfect.

I also fixed my heater box door. I wanted to make sure that the door fully sealed when I had the temperature on hot and cold. The door sealed fully when on hot but only closed half way when on cold, which meant this whole time half of the air was going through my heater core when I had it set to cold! No wonder the air felt so hot. What I did was I made a 90 degree bend in the cable to shorten it as well as increase the leverage force to help depress the vacuum plunger on top of the heater box. Now the door fully closes on hot and on cold.

In the next post I should have everything installed in the car!


Wow Cody.Looks really good. Great work, Bubba or not... lol...
 
Still waiting for my replacement Ridetech shocks unfortunately... Apparently they are two to three weeks out and I don't feel great using my other one's because they're too big and the one sounds like a rattle can lol.

Here's some progress for today. Got the lava shield on and installed some foam seals and some hardware.

I'll be installing the new evaporator into the box. Once everything's installed I'll have to install the new condenser, VIR eliminator kit, and compressor.
 

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Hey Guys,

I've finished all the work on the car this year. I got the whole AC system installed along with the blower fan and evaporator box. I wanted to wait to do an update until I had tested the airflow through the filter. Now granted I do have a C4 squirrel cage on my blower motor and I ran a 10G ground wire to the fan to get some more power from the blower motor. However, I haven't noticed any drop in airflow with this filter. In fact, now that I have the box sealed up I think the airflow is actually improved and when the fan is on full there is lot of air movement. I can't say that I would want any more air movement out of this system.

Here are some pictures of the finished box and AC install. Thank you all for following my projects this past winter and for all of your kind words!

PS. I washed the car today and took it for a spin. It now handles incredibly well with the improved suspension geometry and the custom rear upper struts. The 3.90's were also a good choice over the 3.55's. The car now pulls even harder now and it really complements the 6 speed by putting every gear in a nice rpm range when cruising.
 

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