Nov 12, 2009
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267
New Brunswick
VetteCoins
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2006 C6
Per some suggestions on making the system more pleasant to the ear, some have disconnected the dash center speaker, and have noticed an improvement.
I did try this, but to me, it didn't change much, at least to my deaf ears.
Since Covid, I have done many mods to my car, and since we are within weeks of clear highways, I decided to try an experiment with the sound system.
I hooked speaker wires to the dash speaker connector, and ran it under the radio surround console to a 2 way 4 ohm speaker attached to my homemade speaker enclosure between the two seats. I had some carpet left over from my divider and top partition mod, so I wrapped the enclosure in the matching carpet.
I know that the center speaker will be mono, but I'm hoping that it makes the system sound a bit better. I won't know that for sure until I get it on the highway. I guess worse case is that the speaker will be closer to my deaf right ear :). The enclosure is not permanently attached and can be removed in 30 seconds.
The pic is what the partition/divider looks like, and then the pic with the speaker enclosure.
 

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Interesting. Is the center speaker 4 ohm? If your running the top Bose system with 10"subs in the doors, the side and back speakers are all 2 ohm. Not sure of the center. Can't wait to hear the results of the experiment.

I'm like you and didn't see much of a difference between the center speaker on or covered to block the sound. I got much better results from sound deadening my doors. Made the subs deeper and and richer overall. Oh and a new head unit.
 
Interesting. Is the center speaker 4 ohm? If your running the top Bose system with 10"subs in the doors, the side and back speakers are all 2 ohm. Not sure of the center. Can't wait to hear the results of the experiment.

I'm like you and didn't see much of a difference between the center speaker on or covered to block the sound. I got much better results from sound deadening my doors. Made the subs deeper and and richer overall. Oh and a new head unit.
The center dash speaker is indeed 4 ohms as stamped on the bottom of the magnet. I have not sound deafened the doors, so that is an option available. What did you use for sound deadening material , and where did you place it?
It will be interesting to see what if any difference it makes. If it does an OK job, then I'll have another project, making a new divider with the speaker box built into the divider as one piece.
I'm also hoping that the side curvature of the speaker box directs some of the sound from the rear speakers towards the front.
 
I used 80 mil butyl mats. Came in 3' x 2' pieces, sticky backed. I used one per door. It did not have the metal foil on it but that can be used as well. I cut the sheet into two 18" pieces and installed into the outside panel within the door. There's a large opening at the back of the door that works very well. My local audio shop stated the entire surface doesn't have to be covered, just a good portion. I place the material from the upper horizontal brace through the door down to the base of the door. the 2' long sheet works perfectly and pretty much covers form the front to the back of the door below the horizontal bar. I then cut some 3/8" MDF to cover the large opening that was used to feed the mats through. I replaced the rubber cover then placed the MDF over top and screwed into place. then covered the MDF with sound deadening as well. I only had some 50 mil Kilmat left over from the interior so used that. Put everything back together and was shocked at how solid the door feels now! just a dull thud when it closes. How the audio sounds is heavier, fuller. I definitely feel it made a difference.

Added a pic to show the large opening at the back of the door. Remember to clean all surfaces really well and roll the butyl on to assure it sticks. I didn't cover the inner frame but some people do. If I'm bored next winter I'll pull the panels off and do it as well. More is better, right?
door.jpg


If you plan on it google how to put the door panel back in with some wire looped over each of the hooks along the top. Once I did it this way it's so easy!
 
I used 80 mil butyl mats. Came in 3' x 2' pieces, sticky backed. I used one per door. It did not have the metal foil on it but that can be used as well. I cut the sheet into two 18" pieces and installed into the outside panel within the door. There's a large opening at the back of the door that works very well. My local audio shop stated the entire surface doesn't have to be covered, just a good portion. I place the material from the upper horizontal brace through the door down to the base of the door. the 2' long sheet works perfectly and pretty much covers form the front to the back of the door below the horizontal bar. I then cut some 3/8" MDF to cover the large opening that was used to feed the mats through. I replaced the rubber cover then placed the MDF over top and screwed into place. then covered the MDF with sound deadening as well. I only had some 50 mil Kilmat left over from the interior so used that. Put everything back together and was shocked at how solid the door feels now! just a dull thud when it closes. How the audio sounds is heavier, fuller. I definitely feel it made a difference.

Added a pic to show the large opening at the back of the door. Remember to clean all surfaces really well and roll the butyl on to assure it sticks. I didn't cover the inner frame but some people do. If I'm bored next winter I'll pull the panels off and do it as well. More is better, right?View attachment 79620

If you plan on it google how to put the door panel back in with some wire looped over each of the hooks along the top. Once I did it this way it's so easy!
Thanks for that info on the butyl. That will be my next project. I knew about the wire in the top door hooks to easily slide them into position, but for those that don't know that little tip, it saves aggravation trying to get those hooks into position.
 
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