Brake Question

hahaha yes but might work can sometimes sound like a challenge.
I am still trying to get some pictures up, rear end is almost done, un heated garage so no body work happening til warm weather. Much mech work to do.
 
You would initially have to go to at least a 17" wheel to clear the rotors. The hubs would also have to be machined to accept these rotors. Unsprung weight on the corners would decrease slightly due to the aluminum calipers; but you'd be sacrificing a 4 piston set up for 2. Never mind the fact that you'd then be running a 'floating' caliper set up compared to our 'fixed' configuration. People may complain about C3 brakes; but with proper run out, and well maintained components, I'd put them up against a lot of newer cars systems........never mind the fact we're talking about technology more than 40 years old.
 
Looks like that is what I will do, order a set of rebuilts and get my rotors turned. I am waiting for front end kit to come in and start that stuff, while I am working on the motor.
thanks for the thoughts Brian.
 
I went through Corvette Depot in Windsor, saved shipping as I was on a job down there for a week. Took my old ones with me in an old milk crate so as to get my core deposit credited right away. I elected to go with the o-ring seals, as mine has to sit from November to May every year. Calipers were from Lonestar, were actual GM cores, and were painted a grey finish - very impressed with the quality. I also picked up the two hard lines that run along the trailing arms (had previously bought the soft lines at my local NAPA), total out the door was $606 CDN. Comparing this cost to the lip seal rebuilds (I believe they are Cardones) that my friend purchased through Parts Source, we are talking similar money at about $150 a corner. Part Source did have a new master cylinder for my '79 in stock for less than $40 with the exchange, have had no issues at all with it.

My front rotors are still riveted on, and the runout and rotor thickness are still great. I say this because a lot of guys will automatically assume if the rotors are that old, they gotta go - not so. The quality of steel used by the General back in the day I find far superior to the off the shelf offerings today - your opinion may differ. I have seen OEM listed rotors available on Rock Auto, but have no experience with their quality. My point is, if you have the real deal, treat them well and they'll look after you for a long time.

Verifying rotor runout, and proper brake bleeding are imperative to having good pedal and response. I highly recommend owning a clamp on dial gauge, and a Motive Power Bleeder - these can both be purchased for less than $150, and will pay for themselves the first time out. I flush my brake fluid every 3 years, it takes about 1 hour to bleed all 4 corners by myself with the Power Bleeder, no muss no fuss.

Rock Auto also sells a 'rotor shim' that is actually a pretty cool invention. It's a tapered ring that fits over your wheel studs before you install the rotor. They come in 2 thickness's, .006 and .009 mm to offset severe rotor runout. Never needed them personally, but wouldn't hesitate if it meant the alternative was to machine a rear hub.

I tend to do a lot of my own work, due to the fact there's not too many knowledgeable old school mechanics where I live, and I plan on keeping this car for a long time. So if something comes up and you have a question, don't hesitate to ask. I certainly don't have all the answers; but if my mistakes can help make yours or anyone else's job easier, then the forum is doing it's job.

Continued success.

B
 
Hey Lawrence, if your looking for rotors and calipers. I might be able to help you out. I have rotors and calipers off my 75 C3 with only about 2000 km on them and I'm just down the road from you in Cobourg.
 

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