Mar 19, 2016
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329
Georgetown, Kentucky 40324, USA
VetteCoins
4,613
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1967 Coupe
While putting my ‘67 back together I've run into a potential issue with the Clutch Rod. Yesterday I installed the clutch/brake pedal assembly but when I hooked up the clutch rod it’s extremely close to interfering with the top of the firewall opening.

The body is on a replacement frame that may have originally been a big block Vette, don’t know if that makes any difference. New body mounts installed all around. I’m not sure how it originally was before this work was started but I was expecting it to go thru the firewall opening, close to the middle of hole.

Here’s a pic of it from the inside as you’re looking down the clutch rod to the firewall opening. Does this look right or have I done something wrong? With how that pedal assembly mounts to the firewall and Z-bar, I don’t see what options I have except for shimming between the pedal assembly plate and the Z-bar. I don’t remember any shims being removed from that area and can't find anything in A.I.M. about shimming it.

27959




Let me know if anyone has seen this before and fixed it or if you think this is typical. I’m concerned that if the body mounts start to sag at some point it could make things worse.
 
After removing the whole pedal assembly and looking at it and where it mounts and not finding anything else I can do I'm starting to think that this is really just a body mount issue. As best I can determine, as the new body mounts compress over time I think the clearance will improve and not get worse. I checked with the shims that were installed to level the body and adjust door gaps and at the #2 body mount (driver side near windshield), I used exactly what was originally in that position. Some of the other mounts were adjusted up and down slightly but that one was the same. Again if anyone else has an thoughts I'd appreciate hearing them. John
 
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All I could think of would be to monitor and see where the rod goes through the hole over time. It would be expected that the rod would go through the center of the hole, but I'm sure with the C2, the tolerances on some items weren't super tight, so it could just be where it lines up in this instance. It is possible to adjust the Z-bar support height that goes from the z-bar to the frame? I don't know the C2, but I did the clutch and transmission on my 66 Chevelle and imagine the mounting system would be similar?
 
Thanks for thoughts Riley P. The Z-Bar at is welded in at each end to the metal Bird-Cage that surrounds the occupants. There are 2 support rods near the center that are bolted in but those weren't disturbed during dis-assembly and I haven't checked to see if those have slots or not for any adjustment ... might be worth checking into. I took a ton of pics but didn't get that clutch-rod opening. Maybe it was high to start with but not rubbing. I do have a couple of casual friends that have C2's that I ought to be able to peek a view under the dash to see their setups if they'll let me that close to them. ;)
 
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John, the only pics I can find where taken during disassembly with the engine out, so the rod is already loose at that point and not centered. So not much help except a clue from the pic from inside showing the rod through the firewall, I don't see any wear of the insulation around the opening indicating the rod was not as high as in your pic. I can definitely confirm that as you, there were no shims removed during disassembly or any adjustments that I ever made to the pedal assembly, the rod or Z-bar. So the new body mounts seems like a good bet as the cause. Absolute worse case scenario, you can probably file that opening a little on the top side to prevent any potential rubbing issues until the body settles on the new mounts.
Luke
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Luke 1967 & Riley P ... I like both of your thoughts related to opening up that top area a little and monitoring it over time. Right now my wife and I are just ending Day 1 of 4 days of taking care of my 3yr old granddaughter, and we're exhausted. Needless to say I won't be getting any wrenching done but will try to monitor any other forum suggestions and then hit this issue again next Tuesday. Thanks for your ideas.
 
Was your car always a four speed car? Just wondering because I bought a cultch pedal assembly supposedly out of a 66 BB Chevelle and the clutch rod was not quite correct for my Chevelle which was originally a power glide (BB with a super T10).

Good luck getting it sorted. Also congrats on surviving at least one day of a four year old. Man they just wear you down! :Biggrin: :thumbs: :thumbs:
 
Black 03 Z06 ... to my knowledge it is an original 4spd. The previous owner thinks he's the first real owner of it. He was from Milwaukee, Wisconsin and said a GM executive had the car but based on title information it looked like he (guy from Wisconsin), was the actual 1st owner and he believed everything on the car was original when he got it except for the teakwood steering wheel which shouldn't have been an option for '67. The car was build in Dec. of '66 so who knows for sure with how they fazed things in and out on the assembly like during those periods.

I know when I posted being exhausted from having our granddaughter for a day that would really sound bizarre that 2 adults would be worn out but it's constant energy on her part until she crashes. :p BTW Nice wheels!
 
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Well plans changed with watching granddaughter and parents picked her up yesterday after we celebrated Father's Day. :)

I do need to set something straight that I got wrong and has probably caused some confusion. When Z-Bar was mentioned I thought we were talking about the brace in the passenger compartment that goes from the Driver side pillar to the Passenger side pillar. I realize now that you were talking about the pivoting arm in the engine compartment that rods attach to. My problem. :Banghead: I don't know where I got that from ... anyway I'm sorry.

Feeling everything is installed properly except maybe the body is shifted forward on frame a little and then having new body mounts I just went ahead and took my dremel tool with a sanding drum and took about 1/16" off the top of that opening in firewall. Clutch boot covers everything from engine side and insulation on inside makes it un-noticible. I'll give that a try, monitor things and if it comes back then I think I'll try bending the rod that comes thru the firewall. Thanks for everyone's suggestions. If something doesn't work out I'll update this thread with what's going on. John
 
A little late and glad you came up with a solution. I also have no specific answer but based on my rebuild experiences with my C3 these chassis and bodies (being hand fit) are open to...lets say...errors. I have found many places that "should fit" but don't and require some finesse. Also I think you are right with the new body mounts being the culprit. It is amazing how a 1/16" one places can really cause you issues in another.

Once again glad you found a solution.

T
 
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I agree taylorsk8. If you look a little further down in this C2 forum you'll see I also had some alignment issues with the front. It's under the title "C2 Body to Frame Alignment Issue ". I sold my C3 a '74 Coupe last summer and I have missed it, especially with not having a Vette to drive for over a year now. Hopefully that will change before the end of summer.
 
Ha over a year! I am on year 7 of the rebuild. Kills me every time my dad and uncle pull their 57 Thunderbird and 71 Mach 1 out in the spring.

Has crossed my mind to buy another car....just can't afford to.

T
 
Ya frame off. Had it down to bare frame. I have a thread going in the C3 Forum. I don't get as much time as I would like with family, other projects yard works, etc. Usually get more done over the winter months. I sure would like to have my car back on the road but I also like doing the work so I can't complain too much. Like I said I just need a second car to drive while I fix this one!

T
 
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