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Corvette
C4 Forum
1988 Convertible for sunny day drives
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<blockquote data-quote="Tourmax" data-source="post: 173317" data-attributes="member: 5304"><p>Got a chance to do a full compound, polish and wax:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]30255[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]30256[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Now it’s a solid “10 footer” instead of a “20 footer”!</p><p></p><p>Well, maybe it’s more like a “5 footer”.</p><p></p><p>Lol!</p><p></p><p><img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite1" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p></p><p>I use Meguiers compound, polish and wax:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]30258[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The compound and polish go on with a Dewalt <span style="font-size: 15px">DWP849X</span> rotary buffer:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]30259[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I can’t say enough how great that buffer is. Variable speeds, takes 7” or 9” pads, constant load circuitry (ie: doesn’t loose rpm with load), soft start circuitry, and on and on. Great deal for 200 bucks. I use it on everything from boats to our fiberglass bodied travel trailer. It’s one serious, professional grade piece of equipment for paint care. But: you need to know how to use it or you can do some serious damage to a paint job in record short time.</p><p></p><p>The compound allows me to take out minor paint scratches and eliminate the “swirls” you get from people unknowingly washing and rubbing it incorrectly. The polish takes out very fine swirls and marks left by the compounding and leaves a smooth and shiny surface.</p><p></p><p>I use 9” pads, yellow for compound, black for polish:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]30260[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>They’re hanging to dry in that pic. They get washed (rinse out the product, squezzed flat and hung to dry) after each use. The slots are for “cooling” when buffing. Helps prevent imperfections. Buffing paint can build up heat, which is not good for the paint finish.</p><p></p><p>One of the things that is hard to deal with on a rotary buffer is what is known as “holograming”. Basically, a rotary buffer can leave “tracks” if it has too much pressure applied in a line or if it is not moved enough to prevent creatong these “tracks”. A bad buff job can end up looking like this:</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]30262[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>They’re most obvious in direct sunlight or overhead fluorescent lighting. Absolutely ruins the fresh clean look of properly corrected/buffed paint.</p><p></p><p>These slots help with preventing that, as well as using a low speed, very little pressure and an operator who knows how to use a rotary. I only use the weight of the buffer itself. I never “press” on the buffer, I never run it “on it’s edge” and I always make at least one pass 90 degrees out to the first passes. Seems to work for me as black is the easiest to “f-up” and mine have always turned out just fine.</p><p></p><p>I’ve also got some 7” pads and backing plate, but I don’t use them unless I’m working on a tight spot. I find it’s too easy to mess up the paint on a large area with a small pad (ie:hologramming).</p><p></p><p>Both compounding and polishing are finished with a microfibre cloth wipe down.</p><p></p><p>I use Mother’s instant detailer spray if I have product that is too dry to just hand buff off. The Mothers spray wets the product and lets me just wipe it off. It’s better than water or any other “wetter” becuase it dries without leaving residue or streaks.</p><p></p><p>The wax is a simpler process. The two stages of buffing has done the heavy lifting, the wax is just a “protectant”. I just use the included foam applicator, wait for it to “haze” and then buff it off with a clean microfibre cloth. The “Ultimate wax” gives it that final “wet look” and glassy shine. The Meguiers Ultimate Wax is also very “hydrophobic”. Meaning: water doesn’t just bead on the car, it sheets off completely. It’s like Rain-x for your paint. Its so hydrophobic, you almost don’t have to shammy after washing it.</p><p></p><p>Black is probably the hardest paint to get clean and keep clean, not to mention how it shows up defects like they’re a blazing neon sign. But it’s one hot color when you get it right!</p><p></p><p>The ‘vette looks spankin’ in those pics, but theres lots of rock chips and a touch of orange peel is evident if you get right down on it and look at the right angle.</p><p></p><p>The ‘Vette will get another paint job in the future. I’l do a proper color sand and buff when that happens. For now, it’s good enough for me to enjoy.....as is.</p><p></p><p><img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Tourmax, post: 173317, member: 5304"] Got a chance to do a full compound, polish and wax: [ATTACH type="full" alt="53237308-9BB0-441C-8E7B-6E430D4A7F6B.jpeg"]30255[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="991B1355-F0F3-4F8A-84B7-885989A127A5.jpeg"]30256[/ATTACH] Now it’s a solid “10 footer” instead of a “20 footer”! Well, maybe it’s more like a “5 footer”. Lol! :) I use Meguiers compound, polish and wax: [ATTACH type="full" alt="368E958E-FAF4-436C-91EC-F829BED52BC2.jpeg"]30258[/ATTACH] The compound and polish go on with a Dewalt [SIZE=4]DWP849X[/SIZE] rotary buffer: [ATTACH type="full" alt="1CE2C2EF-5A16-4B34-989D-B6041B3F3F6C.jpeg"]30259[/ATTACH] I can’t say enough how great that buffer is. Variable speeds, takes 7” or 9” pads, constant load circuitry (ie: doesn’t loose rpm with load), soft start circuitry, and on and on. Great deal for 200 bucks. I use it on everything from boats to our fiberglass bodied travel trailer. It’s one serious, professional grade piece of equipment for paint care. But: you need to know how to use it or you can do some serious damage to a paint job in record short time. The compound allows me to take out minor paint scratches and eliminate the “swirls” you get from people unknowingly washing and rubbing it incorrectly. The polish takes out very fine swirls and marks left by the compounding and leaves a smooth and shiny surface. I use 9” pads, yellow for compound, black for polish: [ATTACH type="full" alt="915B422F-E369-4155-9654-7592258F6BCD.jpeg"]30260[/ATTACH] They’re hanging to dry in that pic. They get washed (rinse out the product, squezzed flat and hung to dry) after each use. The slots are for “cooling” when buffing. Helps prevent imperfections. Buffing paint can build up heat, which is not good for the paint finish. One of the things that is hard to deal with on a rotary buffer is what is known as “holograming”. Basically, a rotary buffer can leave “tracks” if it has too much pressure applied in a line or if it is not moved enough to prevent creatong these “tracks”. A bad buff job can end up looking like this: [ATTACH type="full" alt="7B8EA89D-AE30-4B41-9712-50992C0F9B6B.jpeg"]30262[/ATTACH] They’re most obvious in direct sunlight or overhead fluorescent lighting. Absolutely ruins the fresh clean look of properly corrected/buffed paint. These slots help with preventing that, as well as using a low speed, very little pressure and an operator who knows how to use a rotary. I only use the weight of the buffer itself. I never “press” on the buffer, I never run it “on it’s edge” and I always make at least one pass 90 degrees out to the first passes. Seems to work for me as black is the easiest to “f-up” and mine have always turned out just fine. I’ve also got some 7” pads and backing plate, but I don’t use them unless I’m working on a tight spot. I find it’s too easy to mess up the paint on a large area with a small pad (ie:hologramming). Both compounding and polishing are finished with a microfibre cloth wipe down. I use Mother’s instant detailer spray if I have product that is too dry to just hand buff off. The Mothers spray wets the product and lets me just wipe it off. It’s better than water or any other “wetter” becuase it dries without leaving residue or streaks. The wax is a simpler process. The two stages of buffing has done the heavy lifting, the wax is just a “protectant”. I just use the included foam applicator, wait for it to “haze” and then buff it off with a clean microfibre cloth. The “Ultimate wax” gives it that final “wet look” and glassy shine. The Meguiers Ultimate Wax is also very “hydrophobic”. Meaning: water doesn’t just bead on the car, it sheets off completely. It’s like Rain-x for your paint. Its so hydrophobic, you almost don’t have to shammy after washing it. Black is probably the hardest paint to get clean and keep clean, not to mention how it shows up defects like they’re a blazing neon sign. But it’s one hot color when you get it right! The ‘vette looks spankin’ in those pics, but theres lots of rock chips and a touch of orange peel is evident if you get right down on it and look at the right angle. The ‘Vette will get another paint job in the future. I’l do a proper color sand and buff when that happens. For now, it’s good enough for me to enjoy.....as is. ;) [/QUOTE]
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Corvette
C4 Forum
1988 Convertible for sunny day drives
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